Ice tools AND ice axes on alpine ice?

[G-spotter]

just two :pagetop:

[catbirdseat]

I guess it all depends on the route and how technical it is. There is a problem if one doesn't have the skills to climb Liberty Ridge with a tool and an axe. The ice climbing isn't that hard, and in the event you do encounter a tough ice step, you borrow your partners other ice tool.

[sobo]

The first time I did LR, our "leader", the indomitable (and niggardly weight-conscious) Pete Rieke insisted that each of us would take our own ice axe, and that the team of three would share the single 45cm ice tool, with only the leader of any given pitch allowed to have it.

 

We were successful, and even short-roped two other teams of two to us and transported/led/guided them to the summit for later evac by CH-47 helo (June 1, 1991).

 

Bottom line? I agree with CBS. If you know your stuff and how to work with the tools you have, you'll do pretty well most of the time. Take what you feel most comfortable with, Rob.

[catbirdseat]

Of course, need I add, that if you use an axe it would be a technical axe.

[sobo]

Standard Coonyard blue fiberglass piolet; the very same one being held up by yours truly in the Geranimals suit on the right (this shot was taken nine years later, in June 2000, at the time of Rieke's successful "paraplegic under his own power" summit of Rainier).

 

FYI: The guy behind me (in orange hood) is another former climbing partner of mine that some of you may have heard of or climbed with at Vantage and other locales.

It's Bill Robins. He's dead now, KIA by avalanche in Bolivia 5 years ago this coming July. RIP, Bill.

 

The ice tool was a rubber bonded straight shaft BD X-15. Did I ever mention that I'm hopelessly old skewl?

[Chad_A]

Standard Coonyard blue fiberglass piolet; the very same one being held up by yours truly in the Geranimals suit on the right (this shot was taken nine years later, in June 2000, at the time of Rieke's successful "paraplegic under his own power" summit of Rainier).

 

FYI: The guy behind me (in orange hood) is another former climbing partner of mine that some of you may have heard of or climbed with at Vantage and other locales.

It's Bill Robins. He's dead now, KIA by avalanche in Bolivia 5 years ago this coming July. RIP, Bill.

 

The ice tool was a rubber bonded straight shaft BD X-15. Did I ever mention that I'm hopelessly old skewl?

 

Nice pic!

 

Hey, Sobo, who is the gent on the arm-powered vehicle? I think he may have been on Rainier in '99 trying the Kautz when I was up there. I remember climbers shuttling up white gas n' such for his attempt; never did hear if he made it.

[catbirdseat]

We have Peter to thank for the handicap privy at Camp Muir.

[Dechristo]

being 6'7", it pisses me off not having an axe on low-angle stuff b/c the tools are just too short. You might as well just face into the hill and use both tools so you don't fall in the first place

If you are travelling roped on a glacier and your partner falls into a crevasse, what are you going to arrest with, your 45 cm ice tool. No, you want an ice axe!

 

If adequately excited about the climb, and I fell face-forward, the third tool would plunge deeply and provide adequate purchase. However, in such a scenario, the efficacy of the third tool may diminish quickly after introduction to the glacier.

[sobo]

Hey, Sobo, who is the gent on the arm-powered vehicle? I think he may have been on Rainier in '99 trying the Kautz when I was up there. I remember climbers shuttling up white gas n' such for his attempt; never did hear if he made it.

That is the indomitable (and niggardly weight-conscious) Pete Rieke himself. He was indeed on the Kautz in 1999, and I and many of the others pictured above were also with him (he was on the Igraham in 1998, didn't make it - he summitted Mt. Hood via standard south side in the spring of 1998). The 1999 Kautz attempt was aborted just below the top of the Kautz headwall (12,500' +/-) after a huge avalanche swept the face below Point Success, which as you know is the next glacier over (Van Trump??) and on the same aspect and slope angle. I called out after the roar died away, "We shouldn't be here!" And we skedaddled.

 

Having determined in subsequent planning sessions that the Kautz was indeed the correct route to the top for Pete, we tried the Kautz again in June 2000, and he was successful. Read all about it here.

 

Pete went on to build three more snowpods and he and three other paralyzed athletes summitted Mt. Shasta under their own power in 2002. Linky

 

Pete's still a senior scientist at Battelle's PNNL here in Richland, WA. I see him from time to time to see what's coming up new in his life, and to reminisce about the old dayzzzz. I'll be drinking with him this weekend, and his new betrothed. He's getting married (again) next month.

[Weekend_Climberz]

being 6'7", it pisses me off not having an axe on low-angle stuff b/c the tools are just too short - my little kid trekking pole works nice though - you shouldn't fall on easy shit, and if you're worried about having to arrest, you might as well just face into the hill and use both tools so you don't fall in the first place

If you are travelling roped on a glacier and your partner falls into a crevasse, what are you going to arrest with, your 45 cm ice tool.

 

yep

 

the friction of the rope on the lip does most of the work. sometimes just sitting down will be enough to stop the fall.

 

You must forgive him, he hasn't fallen into a crevasse yet. At least, no with me

[sobo]

We have Peter to thank for the handicap privy at Camp Muir.

 

I must inform you, sir, that you are sadly mistaken. The true events surrounding the installation of the HC shitter at Camp Muir are borne out of the angst of failure and search for blame by another paraplegic "climber", one Jeff Pagels. Pete and Pagels were on Mt. Rainier at the same time in June 1999, and it was sort of a competition among the two teams as to who would "win the honor" of being the first para to summit Rainier. Pagel's method of choice was to ride on a sit-ski and jug up fixed lines that his crew would stake out ahead of him, and we felt ourselves "above that" because, while both crews had "sherpa support" for gear/parts/camps, Pete's method of choice was an actual "under his own power" ascent. Pete chose his own route, cranked his own pod, and made all his own climbing decisions, while we (his support team) were nothing more than strong backs to haul loads and to provide a belay system for him, just as you would for any other able-bodied climber. Jugging up lines just wasn't the same in our eyes, as that required someone else to set them for you.

 

Pagel aborted his attempt at Camp Muir, and then proceeded to complain to the NPS that he couldn't get into the shitter there. As a result of his complaint and threats of legal action against the Park for not meeting the requirements of the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) in regards the the Muir toilet, the NPS installed the ADA-compliant shitter. Check it out with Gator or read this article, and I think you'll find I speak the truth.

 

While I respect your intelligence, enjoy reading your thoughtful posts, and often cringe at the beatings you take on this board, I charge you not to diss my friends without having all of the facts at hand. I consider the matter of the ADA shitter closed, and we need not speak of it again.