[TR] Mount Stuart - Icecliff GI 4/7/2007

[Pochi]

Trip: Mount Stuart - Icecliff GI

 

Date: 4/7/2007

 

Trip Report:

My friend Joe and I climbed Mount Stuart Ice cliff GI Saturday along with Kelly and Rusty who we met at the base of climb.

Our plan was to climb it in one day because Joe had some plans on Sunday. So we left Seattle 11pm Friday. drove up to bridge Creek Camping Ground at 1:30am Saturday. We took a power snap for an hour, and started to hike up at 3:00am. The gate was still closed. So we hiked extra 3.5miles to the trailhead. The road was snow free about 1.5miles, and the next 1.5miles was snow and dart, and the last 1mile is covered with snow. There is a huge washout 1 mile post, so I assume the road won't be opening soon.

We took our snowshoes, they were nice to have when the 90% of trail was covered with snow still. I saw people's tracks, but there were a lot of huge deep postponed holes everywhere.

We saw a yellow tent by the fist swamp which I found out it belonged to the people we met at the base of climb. We ended up climbing with them.

The approach took longer than what I expected. We got to the base of the climb at 10:30am. We looked up the icecliff GI decided take the left side of the cliff rather than the right side. Kelly and Rusty was already at the base started first. We soon enough past them since we simulclimbed. The snow was ok, wish a little harder because the snow was balling underneath of our crampons even through we had anti balling plates. Joe was kicking steps on the rhythm the first. When we got to the gully or runnel which is about 20-25ft. The one side is glacier hard ice, the other side is rock slab, and the middle is hard snow. My turn to lead. It looked easier from the bottom, but it was really awkward to climb and place some screws on the right side ice. I had to do a few sporty moves. I actually placed 4 screws, and was happy about it. We left screws for Kelly and Rusty. From there simulclimb again to the base of the steepen couloir. The last 1,000ft Joe was kicking steps strong placing pickets and a couple rock pros. And the final object CORNICE. It was about 10ft vertical high with shitty snow pile. Joe lead this fantastic part. Placed pickets, so he could hook his ice toolsto bring himself up, but hard to place feet because the steps collapsed every time we placed our feet. Hats off to Joe leading that. I attached Kelly and Rusty's rope, so they didn't have to suffer. When we toped out the ridge, it was already 7pm, so we decided it was wise idea to not to go the true summit. We down climbed Sharpa GI placing pickets. It was about 40 degrees the first 1500ft. That was just a tidius work, faceing down, place pickets in dark. not to mention, no water left with exhaust and hunger. We made 5,400ft the flat campsite about 11pm. Kelly and Rusty took off to their tent. And Joe and I decided to rest there for awhile with just one bivy sack and pad. I had no sleep because it was windy and cold. I don't know how Joe could sleep in such condition. Joe got up about 5;00am and we started hiking out. Death march what I wanted call of this hike out.

Overall, I had great time climbing that route. But I don't think I want to plan this trip in a one day push.

 

Gear Notes:

Snowshoes for apprach ditched 5,400ft

4 ice screws ust tham all

4 pickets used them all

 

Approach Notes:

3.5miles on the road to the trailhead

90% covered with snow

[spotly]

Nice job. Sounds like tiringly good fun! Any pics?

[Pochi]

http://www.pbase.com/jbinder/mt_stuart_ice_cliff

Here are some pics

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Looks like great conditions. Nice TR>

[AllYouCanEat]

I brought my skis up that route in a day once and got pretty worked. It was nice skiing down the sherpa though. I hate downclimbing. BTW, I was also up there on Saturday (the other side). You probably saw our tracks.

[Weekend_Climberz]

Nice pics :tup:

 

I wanna go climb'n :cry:

[tanstaafl]

Here's a shot I got of Joe on the cornice. Nice meeting you both!

 

[skykilo]

Couloir looks nice and soft, SWEET!

[magellan]

Kelly looked a little blurry this morning. Sleep cures all.