Pochi

http://www.pbase.com/jbinder/mt_stuart_ice_cliff Here are some pics

Trip: Mount Stuart - Icecliff GI Date: 4/7/2007 Trip Report: My friend Joe and I climbed Mount Stuart Ice cliff GI Saturday along with Kelly and Rusty who we met at the base of climb. Our plan was to climb it in one day because Joe had some plans on Sunday. So we left Seattle 11pm Friday. drove up to bridge Creek Camping Ground at 1:30am Saturday. We took a power snap for an hour, and started to hike up at 3:00am. The gate was still closed. So we hiked extra 3.5miles to the trailhead. The road was snow free about 1.5miles, and the next 1.5miles was snow and dart, and the last 1mile is covered with snow. There is a huge washout 1 mile post, so I assume the road won't be opening soon. We took our snowshoes, they were nice to have when the 90% of trail was covered with snow still. I saw people's tracks, but there were a lot of huge deep postponed holes everywhere. We saw a yellow tent by the fist swamp which I found out it belonged to the people we met at the base of climb. We ended up climbing with them. The approach took longer than what I expected. We got to the base of the climb at 10:30am. We looked up the icecliff GI decided take the left side of the cliff rather than the right side. Kelly and Rusty was already at the base started first. We soon enough past them since we simulclimbed. The snow was ok, wish a little harder because the snow was balling underneath of our crampons even through we had anti balling plates. Joe was kicking steps on the rhythm the first. When we got to the gully or runnel which is about 20-25ft. The one side is glacier hard ice, the other side is rock slab, and the middle is hard snow. My turn to lead. It looked easier from the bottom, but it was really awkward to climb and place some screws on the right side ice. I had to do a few sporty moves. I actually placed 4 screws, and was happy about it. We left screws for Kelly and Rusty. From there simulclimb again to the base of the steepen couloir. The last 1,000ft Joe was kicking steps strong placing pickets and a couple rock pros. And the final object CORNICE. It was about 10ft vertical high with shitty snow pile. Joe lead this fantastic part. Placed pickets, so he could hook his ice toolsto bring himself up, but hard to place feet because the steps collapsed every time we placed our feet. Hats off to Joe leading that. I attached Kelly and Rusty's rope, so they didn't have to suffer. When we toped out the ridge, it was already 7pm, so we decided it was wise idea to not to go the true summit. We down climbed Sharpa GI placing pickets. It was about 40 degrees the first 1500ft. That was just a tidius work, faceing down, place pickets in dark. not to mention, no water left with exhaust and hunger. We made 5,400ft the flat campsite about 11pm. Kelly and Rusty took off to their tent. And Joe and I decided to rest there for awhile with just one bivy sack and pad. I had no sleep because it was windy and cold. I don't know how Joe could sleep in such condition. Joe got up about 5;00am and we started hiking out. Death march what I wanted call of this hike out. Overall, I had great time climbing that route. But I don't think I want to plan this trip in a one day push. Gear Notes: Snowshoes for apprach ditched 5,400ft 4 ice screws ust tham all 4 pickets used them all Approach Notes: 3.5miles on the road to the trailhead 90% covered with snow

4 pickets used them all 4 screws 19cmmx2 21cm x2 Used 2 screws.

http://www.pbase.com/jbinder/mthood_sandy_glacier_headwall Here are some photos from our trip.

Trip: Mount Hood - Sandy Headwall Date: 3/17/2007 Trip Report: My friend Joe and I climbed Mount Hood Sandy Headwall Saturday. We left Seattle Friday afternoon. The weather was just gorgeous and very warm. We slept in a car until 1:30am, started 2am. Snow was farm from the parking lot. So we ditched our snowshoes in a car, but carried over night gear for just emergency because we did not want to be on National News. And also we didn't have a dog with us either. We saw a few tent at Illumination Saddle 9,300ft. They must be the people who register to climb Luethold Couloir? Drop down from the saddle about 1,000ft and crossed over Yocum ridge. Got on Sandy GI with the sun rise. It was clear, but it was windy about 20-30 mph. Started climb on the headwall. The slope was consistently 45-50 degrees. Very solid Alpine Ice. But the slope is not steep enough to front point, but the tool placements were fabulous. My calf muscles were burning so bad. We running belayed whole thing except the one section. 15ft narrow gully with crappy water ice on. After that the slope got steeper. I think it was more than 45 degrees. Got on the summit ridge, had nice sun, but the wind was blowing so hard. We took a couple of summit pics and headed down the south side. The summit gully was very icy. We down climbed with placing a few pickets. The weather came in at this moment. It was still super windy and white out once in awhile. When I got Hogsback, there was a pretty big size crevasse opened up, I put a picket and step on the snow bridge where I saw some previous steps on, all the sudden the bidge collapsed and I fell 20ft into the hole. I don't know which one came first my partners arrest or I got wedged between the walls. It was a strange feeling to be inside of a crevasse that deep. I did not get injured and I was able to get up the wall with my ice tool. After that we just sloged to our car in windy and a little white out condition. That was a great winter Alpine ice climb with a little shaky incident. This will be one of my favorite climb.

I am flexible, but the last week of Feb is the best for me.

I am looking for a partner(S) to ice climb in Ouray CO. PM me if you are interested.

The bread wasn't mine. But one of my guy had some bead, he must left it there. I didn't even notice. I am sorry that is not a good manner. Anyway I hope you didn't eat it.

How were the steps we made them for you Sunday? The camp site was very nice place to be. You can see Rainier, St. Helens, and Adams. I eonjoyed tha climb.

I did not find any ice tool or picket on the route. No one was on North ridge Sunday except us. I lost one OR clove on the ridge also.

Climb: Mount Baker -North Ridge Date of Climb: 6/25/2006 Trip Report: I took 3 mounty climbers to Baker North Ridge. I wanted to climb it in a day, but the others insteded to climb in 2 days, so we did it 6/-24-25. The approach was straight forward. Camped about 6,300ft on a rock. It has a few established tent sites. It was very warm night Freezing level was above 14,00ft, but a bit windy at the campsite. Got up 12am, was ready to start at 1am with one rope tem with 4 climbers. Started traversing about 6,500 ft, and ended in crevasse island. Zigzaged up and down, and finally got out. Changed a rope leader, and headed higher elevation about 7,300 ft. Here we go, we were in Creases Island again. It is really hard to navigate Coleman GI in complete dark. It was new moon. Our first plan was to climb Lower approach, however we ended up the base of upper approach( according to Nelson's book there are 2 approaches). The slope was about 40 degrees. The snow was very soft ,and was hard to make steps. We placed a few pickets, and climbed running belays. Topped out on North ridge about 8,800ft. Form there, climbed leftward on 30-45 degrees slope. Then hit the ice face that I was able to put screw for an anchor. There was ice underneath of 4-5 inches of slush snow. The fist pitch is good solid ice climbing 70 degrees. Above that another pitch of OK ice. After ice pitch the slope opens up onto broader slopes about 40-50 degrees. Then climbed up leftward underneath the big ice cap, then to the summit. Freaking Long 11 hours from camp to summit! Coming back down Coleman Deming GI was nightmare. The snow was heavy and wet and deep. Got to the car at 5pm. I want to do this climb when it is cold. Gear Notes: Ice tool 6 Ic screws per rope team 4 pickets per rope team Approach Notes: Super good condition. but millions people on the trail when it's nice day.

I went up on Sunday 18th. The route was still in, and nice climb. I started around 7am at the base of the climb. The snow on couloir was already soft. But like HaakkTW siad the north side was very hard snow and easy to climb up. I topped out around 10am, and did not want to go home so early. So I decided to scramble up to Dragontail and came back down from Aasgard Pass. It was nice day there, and I even saw Rainier was popping up above the clouds. It is not a technical climb if you are comfortable climbing up on steep 30-45 degrees hard snow. Pictures are coming soon.

Is anyone intersted climbing Shuksan north face Sunday-Monday 28-29? PM me.

I hear you. I was there 4/29-5/9 to climb Mount Hunter west ridge. We got stuck at camp 2 where the origibal route meets NW basin route for 4 nights. We had 6-10 inches of new powder snow and 30-40 mpr winds. We just didn't have enough food to attempt the summit. My heart was broken when we had to turn around. We were the first team on the NW basin route on Hunter. So we kicked steps all the way to camp 2. It was a great experiense and I would like to try again next year if I can find partners.

Oleg I remember you. I am so glad you made it. I am looking forward to hearing your trip report.

Climb: Mount Rainier-Fuhrer Finger Date of Climb: 5/13-14/2006 Trip Report: I was on Mount Hunter in Alaska for freezing my ass for 10 days. I came back last Wednesday, and checked the weather in Seattle. It forecasted like summer. I wanted to climb Liberty Ridge, but none of my partners were interested. So I decided going solo on Fuhrer finger since I had not done this route. I started Paradise at 10am Saturday, took a moraine trail. I got on Nasqually GI about 6000ft. Nasqually GI was covered with a lot of snow, so it was so easy to travel. It was not like later in summer like you walk on black ice and dirt. The Fan was also covered with a lot of snow,not lose scree. Sweet! So it was easy travel to the camp about 9,200ft by the big rock. I was completely alone. No hikers, climbers, and not even birds. I ate leftover from Alaska trip Mash potato with Top ramen. It was full moon with a bit breezy, but warm night. I got up 11pm, and packed up, and started hiking about 1145pm. It was not problem crossing Wilson GI, no huge crevasses yet, but I crossed on old avalanche debris. I got on the Finger, and realized I did not see any previous foot steps. I though "Shit! I have to kick steps." The snow was firm and was easy going up. Just before the Futhrer Thumb meets the finger, the slope was going up to 45 degrees. I wished I had a second ice tool for more security, but I didn't. So I was careful not to fall on that section. The Finger broadens up 11,300ft. It was super windy. The guide book said Climb up to the crest of the Wilson Headwall 13,300ft. In order to do that I had to go away from the summit crater a bit. So I peeked at my right Nasqually GI. It looked not so bad crossing crevasse. So I gambled going short cut crossing on Nasqually GI about 12,200ft. I crossed a wimpy narrow snow bridge hoping I don't fall. Thank God. I was light weight. If I was 200lb with 50lb backpack on, I would not dare trying to cross that bridge. The wind was blowing so hard. The slope to the summit was showing blue ice. I got to the summit crater about 7am. I saw my friend who climbed Gib ledges. I went to the true summit and write my name on the register. And I went down on DC route. The DC was well wanded and fixed for a few sections. Thank you for RMI guides. The winds stopped and got hot. I was annoyed with my crampons balling up with snow on the way to the Muir. It was nice to play around my backyard with reasonably warm weather. Gear Notes: Mountaineering Axe Ski Pole which I lost it on DC Approach Notes: Great Shape

Thank you for posting pictures. I just could not figure out how. Thank you again for taking pictures of me on the summit. It was great time.

Here is my short trip report. Saturday Left my car at 9:30am met 2 climbers from Oregon who were gotin to climbing Ingraham Direct. I took my snowshoes, but never wore them. The trail was packed all the way to Muir rather icy in the morning getting up to Pan point. Got to Muir 12:30pm. Enjoyed nice weather, talked a lot of people. There were 6 people in the hut. The other solo climber, me, 2 from Oregon, and the other 2 were just there. It was windy all night because I could hear from inside of the hut. Sunday Every one got up 2am. I was ready to be out of the door around 3am. It was warmer than what I expected. No climbing with a down jacket. The wind died down a bit but had some gusts. The steps were made up to Beehive, from there I was kicking steps very soft powdery snow up to just below the notch(Camp Miserly?) I was sweating from kicking steps. The other soloist caught me around 11,000ft so I let him kicking steps. The ledges has some steps. The snow on ledges were very soft rather sugerly snow. About the half way, the steps went down the slope rather than staying close to the Gib Rocks. But that is a totally wrong way. I don't know who made that steps, but if people follow that, it'll be a big trouble. Gib chute to 12,600ft was perfect condition you can ever ask for. It's not too soft, it's not too icy. From 12,600ft to Summit the snow condition was perfect again. There were a few crevasses to negotiate, but it is not too bad. The crater was nice and not too much windy. The other solo climber and I went to the true summit, and put our name on the summit book. He skied down from summit through Gib Chute(Crazy). I descended on Ingaraham Direct. ID has horrible snow condition to climb up. Coming back on the route was sweet. I was punch stepping down on power snow without bulging snow my crampons. But climbing would be an ass kicking. The Oregon team was still climbing when I came back from summit around 11am at 13,000ft. I don't know they made it or not. I hope they did.

I put my name on the summit book this time.

I am the solo climber on Gib ledges. There is one more solo climber from Gib ledges. The other 2 are from Oregon. They were climbing on Ingraham Direct. I came back on ID route snow was power. They were kicking steps pretty hard. I dodn't know they made it or not. When I cam back from summit around 11am they were still 13000ft? Great weekend for Rainier climb.

Is anyone interested climbing Gib ledges or Hood Sandy headwall this weekend? April 22-23. PM me.

I may be interested to climb that route. But not this year. I am leaving to climb west ridge 28th of April.

Climb: Hubba Hubba- Date of Climb: 2/19/2006 Trip Report: We climbed Tooth NE slab Saturday, Sunday 2/19 we climbed Hubba Hubba in Leavenworth. We started around 7 :20am at the trail head. When we got to the base of the climb, there were three climbers were getting ready to climb. But they looked up the route, and decided not to climb it because they though the ice was not good. I looked at it, and I thought it was OK condition. Small icicles were falling off from the wall once a while because sun was beaming on the route and it got a little warmer than last few days. But I thought I gave a shot. The condition was OK. I was able to put few screws in, but I could hear water was running underneath of the ice, and saw rock was showing out. I managed to get to the belay spot, and brought my partner up. He took a fall once, but he was able to climb up to me. He was a little shaky, but he led the second pitch with no problem. The third pitch was short and steep. And we walked off right side of the route. This was my partners first time on waterfall ice, but he did actually climb fantastic. We had a great weekend. How many times we will get this kind of nice crispy weather in Washington? Gear Notes: Ice screws 16cm x4 19cm x2 Small nuts

We were the first one on the route on Saturday 2/19. We made it to the top and rap down on South Side. Here is my trip report on NE Slab. My partner and I climbed Tooth NE slab Saturday 2/19/06. We saw a few climbers on the route a weekend before when we were heading to climb Tooth South side. We had another week of cold weather, so I thought it would be a nice ice climbing. We had 4 climbers at the trail head; however one person had his ski issues at the trail head. When we got to the base of climb, he and his partner decided to turn around. I lead the first pitch. I was hoping that I was able to put ice screws in, but that was a joke. I put one 13cm screws about 15 ft up from my belayer. The ice was very thin, and I was able to see the rock underneath of the ice layer. I tried to put another ice screw in, but it didn’t even go a half way. So I climbed close to the rock wall on the right side, and hoping I can put rock pros in. We didn’t have many varieties of rock pros, so I was straggling to find a right crack. I finally got up to the place I could make my anchor on the rock to bring my partner up. On first pitch, I only put 3 pros on full rope length. The second pitch started 10 ft below the place I was belaying, and the route went to left to the trees. It was the same quality of ice and snow. It not thick ice to put ice screws in, and snow is not deep enough to put pickets in. My partner put only 2 pickets on entire pitch, and hoping that he was not going to fall. The third pitch, I went through the small trees and put a few slings on them. When I got up on the ridge, I was in the sun. It was very warm to belay my partner up. My fingers and toes were back with me again. We got on the North ridge route from there it was easy climb. However only one section, we had to go over a small overhung cornice that was a little difficult move we had to do. After that it was easy walk to the summit. When we got to the summit, we realized we only had one 60m rope because our other party turned around at the base. So we did painful 4 raps on South side. And we hiked down to Pineapple pass and hiked down to our snowshoes in dusk. We hiked down with our headlamp on, got to our car at 7pm. Overall, it was fun climb because we made it and nobody got hurt. But if someone asked me if I want to climb again that route, I would hesitate to answer yes.

I need a partner for Mt. Hunter West ridge in May 2006. My plan is to go 5/6-5/21.PM me if you are interested.