Jamming primers in Leavenworth

[TrogdortheBurninator]

I thought Inca Roads was more sustained, and overall more challenging than godzilla. YMMV

[MCash]

Tieton is a really good place for cracks. Paul's Jam is a really good .8 (hands). There was really good .9 to the left, but I don't remember the name. There is also MX, a .10a (fingers) that is harder than Orange Sunshine.

 

MX is super good! Long sustained perfect fingers for about 150 feet. Maybe the best 10a pitch in the state.

[eric8]

i have said this before but for pure jamming technique in general granite is better to practice on then basalt because basalt generally has lots of edges for feet and you just end up stemming most cruxs anyway,

[RuMR]

[MCash]

There is no way in God's green earth that you can stem MX. That section of the wall is pretty blank and MX and the 5.9 to its right must be jammed with fingers and feet in the crack the whole way up. If you don't believe me, go try it for yourself.

[eric8]

I have, and your right i didn't stem it but there are lots of good edges for feet, so your not really putting weight on your jams.

 

Anyway I know folks who can lead 5.10 cracks at vantage/ tieton and don't know how to hand jam. One of them can't top rope that 8 mile buttress handcrack.

[Peter_Puget]

 

Rumr –

 

I think his reference points are Tieton and Vantage. If other basalt areas are excluded I think he is pretty much right about other areas being better places to learn crack technique. That’s not to say that there aren’t good crack climbs at Vantage and Tieton; however, most of the crack routes do not require a lot of crack technique.

 

For instance the constrictions on Paul Maul effectively create little holes to stuff your fingers. P3 three of the Bale/Kramar in the Icicle is rated a letter grade easier but has much more technical jamming. Another example would be Wildcat Crack which is more of a face climb than a crack route. To the right of Wildcat there are several good crack climbs that require crack technique.

 

[G-spotter]

P3 three of the Bale/Kramar in the Icicle is rated a letter grade easier but has much more technical jamming.

 

especially when it's full of wasps!