first ascent [TR] Abercrombie Peak - SW Face (First Ascent) 3/20/2007

[Jed]

Trip: Abercrombie Peak - SW Face (First Ascent)

 

Date: 3/20/2007

 

Trip Report:

Colin Haley and I skied up the Valdez Glacier to the base of the 1450 meter SW Face of Abercrombie Peak (circa 2130 meters) on March 19. The forecast was for "a major change in the weather pattern" to hit in a day, so we knew we would be racing the weather. We left camp under clear skies at 6:40 on March 20 and climbed steps of water ice and mixed terrain to around WI4- and 5.4b. Although we wore harnesses and carried a rope and some rack, we never used it. Good training, I guess. We reached the summit at 15:00 in a whiteout and began the descent. We reached camp at 19:00 and coaxed enough water out of our dying gas cylinder for a Ramen each. We were very pleased that we had gone high class and brought Maruchan rather than Top for this recovery meal. We believe this to be the first ascent of the face.

 

Some photos are at http://59A2.org/valdez/200703/

[Weekend_Climberz]

I wanna see pics of the 5.4b pitch. That sounds sick

[sirwoofalot]

We were very pleased that we had gone high class and brought Maruchan rather than Top for this recovery meal. We believe this to be the first ascent of the face.

 

I will be sure to tell the buyer at MARUCHAN your opinion on their product. He will be please to hear it!

[wfinley]

Nice job guys; that rock doesn't look half bad for Chugach crud!

[zoroastr]

Perusing your website has an interesting effect: it makes two hours go by like nothing! [the Moffit Pk. report is probably good for at least a couple of nightmares, too! ..]

Thanks for a great resource for armchair alpinists like myself!

cheers.

[freeze]

An attempt was made on a line on that face a few years ago and we were turn back due to very warm conditions. I believe it has remained unclimbed until this ascent.

 

Nice Job