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About freeze

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  • Birthday 11/26/2017
  1. An attempt was made on a line on that face a few years ago and we were turn back due to very warm conditions. I believe it has remained unclimbed until this ascent. Nice Job
  2. [TR] Valdez Alaska- Numerous 3/10/2006

    Glad you had a good time. It has been 40+ degrees here for the last few days. We climbed Greensteps today and things were getting pretty soft when the sun hit it. For some more images of Valdez Ice you can go here. Valdez Ice Images For conditions and route info try Valdez Climbing I have been updating the ice guide this season with some photos Valdez Ice Guide Enjoy!!!
  3. Spring Break in Valdez

    Easy approaches and lots of ice. Things start to wrap up toward the first week of April. You may have ideal conditions or too warm weather. Must do routes: WI 4 Hung Jury Rain Check Simple Twist of Fate (4+) WI5 Bridal Veil Greensteps Crystal Visions This is only a small list there are many more routes most of which are good. The skiing should be excellent as well. If you have any other questions feel free to contact me at frankenclimber@yahoo.com
  4. Winter boots

    I had the Nepal Extreme's and frost bit my toes in them. It may have been lacing issues or an over all fit issue as they were tight across the ball of the foot. It really sucks to have your big toe discolor and the nail fall off. I now have some Sportiva Nupste's and so far they are great. They are bulkier than single leather but they are very warm and light. The liners also come in half sizes so it is possible to get a good fit. The seem to climb WI well. For mixed/warmer temps I still have a pair of Lhoste in the closet.
  5. Racking Screws

    On long routes with a screw belay at each station the number of screws go up. I usually carry 17cm screws for running pro and a 22 or two for belays. I find that the 17cm are a good compromise for running pro as they are faster to place and have decent holding power in good ice. The 22's are also good for nice deep v-thread rappel anchors. I have used the BD Ice Clipper and a Trango Ice Screw racking device. The BD seems better. I place 3-4 screws on the clipper, 3-4 on a biner on a shoulder sling. The rest on biners on my harness. Runners, draws, screamers and such go on the shoulder sling. This allows access to the gear with both hands. If I were to rack all my screws on one side, on the clipper, left hand placements would suck. I have used this system for a number of years and it works well. But YMMV.
  6. Long double/half ropes ?

    I used to use a 100 meter 9mm for ice climbing. It was pain. I even foolishly climbed long pitchs qith double 100meter 9's. This lead to huge rope weight pulling on you at the end of the pitch, long run outs or lots of pro to carry. I went to twin 60m 8.8m and have never looked back. but YMMV.
  7. La Sportiva Nuptse???

    Well I bought a pair the other day and went out ice climbing at the toe of a glacier. They were really warm and seemed to climb well. I think they will be a good boot for mid winter alaska ice climbing. The ankle flexed well and carbon sole gave a nice platform for front pointing. They are bulkier than my leathers but that was to be expected. Walking the approach in them, which was short, they seemd to be a deecent walker also. I was bummed to find out that I can not order replacment liners for them. But when it comes time for that I can just get custom ones.
  8. Lighthouse in storms?

    I got a lighthouse last winter and have used it several times. It seems to hold up fine. I have not had it out in big wind yet. I did spend a night in it during a moderate snow storm and it held up fine. Winds were about 20-25 mph and it snowed about 6". I have also had it out during rain storms and and have had no problems. The only complaint that I have about the tent is that the door is so big that it is hard to get in and out with out kicking snow into the tent. As with most single wall tent breathablity can be an issue. Make sure to pitch it so the wnd can assist you and keep the flaps open if possible.
  9. La Sportiva Nuptse???

    Has anyone used this boot I am looking into it for ice climbing. I had La Sportiva Nepal Extremes but my feet got to cold in them. I have other boots for mixed/warmer days. I am just wondering if anyone has climbed any technical ice in them WI5 or so and how they handled. Thanks