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Posted

climbed at lower/upper castle the other day. midnight still has a ways to go. clem's holler and vicinity looks ok. haven't been up the icicle in a while but i'm sure you could find some dry-ish lumps.

Posted

Purina/careno crags are sno-free, trundle dome, sam hill dry, givler's dome dry, think bathtub and vicinity sno-free. Mid 60's in wenatchee today, so should dry things out on s. slopes even more in icicle.

Posted

Thanks for the beta. Leavenworth was beautiful yesterday. Mid 60s and party sunny, after the fog lifted. Got in 8 pitches total in the Careno / Purina area.

Posted

We did the Regular route and the first pitch of Careno Corners. On the way down we TRed the 1st and 3rd pitches of the BK route. Holy cowl, pitch #3 is sweet!

Posted

I agree, 3rd pitch crack of BK is fun. All sorts of jams on that one short crack, and just getting into the crack is half the fun. Another favorite pitch is the 4th of Regular route, with a cool little bouldery move to start, and ending with interesting moves with your last piece a bit below you.

 

Way to work it up there!

Posted

Next time at Careno Crag, you shouldn't miss "Orange Juice," a nice 10b/c on the lower crag. Its a great neglected classic. Unfortunately, some doofus put down a bolted route on the face to the right that finishes on Orange Juice. Same dipshit put a bolt right next to a super nice flake on the route that takes bomber gear.

Posted

The first pitch of the Regular Route is the thin crack to bolted face (or the ugly chimney).

 

Will have to check out Orange Juice, thanks.

 

Yeah, Pumpline is the steep finger crack on the right side of the formation. The first 20 feet was really wet on Saturday.

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