Zenolith Posted February 13, 2001 Posted February 13, 2001 I'm looking for an insulated parka to use as a belay jacket. I think I would prefer synthetic insulation since it will get wet on occasion. What do you all use and how do you like it? I can get TNF and Marmot at wholesale (but I don't like TNF stuff) so if you have opinions on those let me know. I will pay full price if there is something substantially better out there. What is the best insulation for its weight? Is there a shell material that breaks wind and sheds precip. better than others? Quote
scott Posted February 13, 2001 Posted February 13, 2001 look at wildthings belay jackets. they are primaloft, very light, and some have wpb shell. Quote
Rodchester Posted February 13, 2001 Posted February 13, 2001 Reconsider down. It is the best!!! Obviously, if you know you will get wet stick with synthetic, but if you just have the normal concerns about the wet PNW weather, go with down. Marmot and TNF both make good lightweight down sweaters and TNF makes a puffier parka with a hood that is still relatively lightweight. Down will last sooooo much longer than any synthetic. NO COMPARISON. ------------------ Have a nice day. Quote
geordie Posted February 13, 2001 Posted February 13, 2001 my two cents- Get a jacket with a hood that can fit over your helmet. If it's that cold, keep your head warm. We all had this inner discussion at one point. A friend of mine pointed out that if it's cold enough for you to be wearing this jacket, it's not going to get wet. Sure there are places where that may not be true, but I've had no problems keeping my down jacket dry. (Marmot Parbat) Lots of folks seem to like the Patagonia DAS jacket, if you do go synthetic. Quote
mikeadam Posted February 13, 2001 Posted February 13, 2001 In reference: http://wildthingsgear.com/insulation.html http://www.promountainsports.com/clothing.shtml I have a primaloft jacket (Wild Things). I've worn it this winter and I find it very similar in function to the old military Field Jacket liners found at most surplus stores for about $40. The liners are a "wear under" your shell thing, very lightweight, comfortable and warm. I wore one everyday during those 45 day in the field winters with nothing, but a BDU blouse over the top of it. That said, I bought a primaloft jacket with the intent of layering over the top. Smart move. I wore it for 8 straight days and I didn't have any complaints overall. Repels water in a reasonable manner and also breathes. Some amount of sweat will accumulate in areas such as your back with a pack over the top, but it dries very quickly. However, if it had gotten much colder (temps were fairly mild with gusty winds) I would have preferred a heavier jacket such as the WT belay jacket which has 3+ times the amount of insulation as the primaloft. The belay also has a full featured hood which the prima does not. For COLD winter ice climbing grab the 'WT belay' (may or may not apply if you are strictly here in WA). For going light in the summer grab the 'WT primaloft' and treat it like a sweater. It weighs less than a pound, compresses to nothing, and offers a small amount of water repellency with the benefits ot synthetic down. Leave your down coat in the pack for when you head to Denali or Colorado in the winter. The shells on the WT synthetics seem to be pretty tough and could take some ice tool bumbliness alot better than most down jackets I've seen. That is unless you subscribe to the theory that you're not a 'real' ice climber unless you have duct tape plastered all over the holes in your jacket and your gaiters. Personally, I'd rather just not have weaknesses in my systems created by my own ineptness. I guess it's like the ski or snowboard issue. Everyone has a preference and everyone can argue their point. In the end you'll do what feels best for you. Mike http://alpinelite.com P.S. Price, forgot to mention price. Generally I find the synthetics to be cheaper ounce for ounce and warmth factor for warmth factor then down. [This message has been edited by mikeadam (edited 02-13-2001).] [This message has been edited by mikeadam (edited 02-13-2001).] Quote
AJ Posted February 13, 2001 Posted February 13, 2001 I've been using a Marmot Trango sweater with Polarguard 3D insulation for a while and it seems to work for me. I initially bought it because it would zip into my Marmot parka, but I've used it by itself plenty of times. The fit is large enough that it layers over other clothing well and although it lacks a hood it has kept me pretty warm for NW stuff. The shell is a thin nylon and soaks up water, but it hasn't been a problem. Lowe Alpine and MEC make some pretty beefy and reasonably priced true belay parkas if you really need a hood or a more durable shell and want to stay synthetic. Quote
Guest Posted February 13, 2001 Posted February 13, 2001 I am also very happy with WildThings' stuff. It is also made so that you could wear it while climbing (the Primaloft Jacket/Vest). Nelson's shop has them. Quote
Illimani94 Posted March 15, 2001 Posted March 15, 2001 Another vote for Wild Things Primaloft. I've had a Denali Parka for 3 years now. Fits over my std winter climbing outfit, so I can just pull it on at the belay or camp. Great warmth, blocks the wind, doesn't mind the spindrift and ice chunks dropped in the neck. I also have one of the Primaloft sweaters. Great layer for summer climbing, or any season extra. My XL weighs 17 oz, stuffs into a tiny ball, and is warmer than any fleec this side of the old Retro stuff (imagine how THAT would fit in a pack!). My only complaint is that I had to go to an XL to get the torso fit; apparently REAL climbers are skinnier than I am. Not a bad thing necessarily (the sizing) - I have plenty of arm length. Alternatives, warmer than the WT Primaloft but less so than the Denali: Cloudveil makes a nice Primaloft jacket, as does MEC; also check out Integral Designs' Dolomitti. For burly parka alternatives: WT also makes a Belay Parka, cut like the Denali but using one of those silicone-treated fabrics for lighter weight and better breathability; and Patagonia's DAS parka has been around for a while, a proven performer. Quote
rbw1966 Posted March 16, 2001 Posted March 16, 2001 No one has mentioned this jacket yet so I will: I have the North Face polarguard jacket as well as a Moonstone down sweater. I bought the polarguard jacket after the down jacket because I had problems with the down always getting wet when I used the sweater on Cascade climbs--and we are all cascade climbers right? In any event, I usually stay away from North Face products but got this jacket on sale for pretty cheap and am glad I did. It compresses down pretty well, is light and somewhat wind and water resistant. I use it all the time now on climbing and/or tele trips in the NW and am very pleased with it. I sweat alot whilst moving and it dries rapidly. Good luck! Rob Quote
sLy Posted March 16, 2001 Posted March 16, 2001 Check out the MEC Belay Overparka. I used one this winter and it kept me warm and dry. Synthetic fill and costs around $335 Cdn, worth a look. Lyle Quote
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