Recommended Ice Axe Length

[Klimber]

I am taking a Glacier climbing course and will need to buy an ice axe but I am not sure what length to get. What would you folks recommend for the length? I am 6'.

 

So far these are the links I have found that talk about the length of an ice axe.

 

http://www.mountaineering-scotland.org.uk/nl/43d.html

 

http://www.escape2.co.uk/advice/choosing_ice_axes.htm

 

http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/FAQ_IceAxe.htm

 

http://patentpending.blogs.com/patent_pending_blog/2006/04/ice_axes.html

 

http://skwp.pbwiki.com/Shasta

 

http://www.xsorbit6.com/users/stevefirebaugh/index.cgi?board=Gear&action=display&num=1128860486

 

Does it boil down to personal perference? If so what should I start out with? Maybe 65-70?

 

 

Edited February 19, 2007 by Klimber

[G-spotter]

For general mountaineering:

 

Hold the axe in your hand with your arm pointing straight down at your side. The point of the shaft should come down to somewhere between your ankle and the ground.

[G-spotter]

So you see a recommendation like 65-70 is meaningless: it depends on your ape index and your leg length.

[slogon]

General thought, lots of sources seem to advocate shorter axes these days as better for steeper stuff, true, but not as easy or useful for going down, which after all is harder.

[Klimber]

Got it. I just tried a friend's ice axe and it seems a 65cm is about the right size. It doesn't quite make it to my ankle but it's short enough to be manageable in a self-arrest situation.

[genepires]

I would err on the shorter side. A long axe reaches the ground when on low angle or level ground. The support offered by a axe here is unneeded. On steeper ground where the aid in balance is needed most, a long axe is cumbersome. A shorter axe works very well on the 25 to 40 degree slopes. (not talking piolet anchor technique but the regular holding the head of the axe technique)

 

Try to simulate the angle of ground you will be on and see where the axe is when you would be doing the diagonal stride. My 65 cm axe is usually uncomfortably high. I use a 60cm axe for most of my glacier travel. A ski pole in the downhill hand is nice for those lower angle ground.

[mattp]

For a general mountaineering axe, I would go no shorter than 60 cm, and I believe 70 is more standard for good reason. Walking on glaciers, poking crevasse edges, and self arrest are far higher priority items than convenience on steep snow and ice climbing for most general mountaineering. A 50 cm tool is, in my opinion, dangerous for performing self arrest. 60 may even be a bit short.

 

For technical climbing, a 50 cm axe is a good tool. It depends on what you are planning to do.

[Mr_Phil]

On glaciers, one of the uses of an ice axe is poking the snow for hidden crevasses. The longer the axe, the easier it is to do that without having to be bent over.

[WageSlave]

With short axes you tend to bend over a lot and it compresses your diaphragm making it harder to get air into you. Bad news. I use a 75 cm and its short on me. Size 'em out, borrow one from a friend, or rent a few different sizes and see what you like.

[G-spotter]

75cm is a walking axe and when you start climbing it seems way too long. if the slope you are on is such a low gradient that you have to bend over touch the ground with the spike of a 65cm axe do you even need it out?

 

also 75cms will stick upinto the air behind your head when strapped to a pack, and get caught on everything.

[ketch]

Just go with what works for you now without spending too much on it. If you are like most of us and end up likeing the hills you will soon enough have more than one axe. Then decide which to take for the conditions you anticipate.

 

Until then get something you can comfortably walk an incline with and don't get too crazy. A real 50+ degree slope is not where your going to be for a while. Something mid range that is a little fiddly on the steeps and sort of rough on the flat is about the best your going to get in a single tool.

[johndavidjr]

Ivon C. in his 1978 "Climbing Ice" claimed 70cm was the ONLY length to use for snow, regardless of one's height. I don't exactly remember his reasoning (something about the swing and maybe some weird, hardman techniques that involved climbing up the shaft). My girlfriend burned the book. But it did seemed convincing, if only because of the author's reputation and achievements.

 

If I were worried about the length of my shaft (and who isn't?) & gonna buy a new axe, I'd probably get a 65cm, if for no other reasons than packing convience & current fashion. Note that although my axe is artfully banged up, I'm not a highly experienced snow climber.

 

BTW thanks for links Klimber.. So far, I've enjoyed Scottish Mountaineering Council discussion. Some of those boys are very strongly advocating 50cm for general mountain use, which does seem a bit extreme (to me) for the average piker. Their claim is that anything over 55cm shaft is inefficient for self-arrest

 

 

 

 

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Edited February 21, 2007 by johndavidjr

[catbirdseat]

Either 65 or 70 cm will be fine.

[G-spotter]

General mountaineering in Scotland = climbing ridges and gullies, not walking up a glacier on a volcano. No glaciers in Scotland.

[Klimber]

thanks a lot everyone! very helpful. I ordered a 65cm axe, hopefully it will work out for me.

[Ovr40]

Ivon C. in his 1978 "Climbing Ice" claimed 70cm was the ONLY length to use for snow, regardless of one's height. I don't exactly remember his reasoning (something about the swing and maybe some weird, hardman techniques that involved climbing up the shaft).

 

I think it had to do, at least in part, with the technique he advocated of sinking the pick into the slope below on descent and walking down using the shaft as a kind of handrail.

[sobo]

....sinking the pick into the slope below on descent and walking down using the shaft as a kind of handrail.

 

piolet rampe

[Ovr40]

Yes, that's it. I think it translates as something like "piglets rump".

[sobo]

From Google Translate:

 

Automatically translated text:

piolet rampe = ice axe crawls