G-spotter Posted February 7, 2007 Posted February 7, 2007 http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP18/newswire-indulgence-howard-lords-amphitheater Sweet looking. Quote
Craig Pope Posted February 7, 2007 Posted February 7, 2007 Oh my God!!! Who here from the palouse wants to get together and climb this?? I have all the time in the world, and no obligation to stay alive. . .lol Quote
Craig Pope Posted February 8, 2007 Posted February 8, 2007 (edited) Oh my God!!! Who here from the palouse wants to get together and climb this?? I have all the time in the world, and no obligation to stay alive. . .lol Edited February 8, 2007 by Craig Pope Quote
Craig Pope Posted February 8, 2007 Posted February 8, 2007 sick It's bolted, let's go do it anyone!!!!! Quote
Jake_Gano Posted February 8, 2007 Posted February 8, 2007 I hate to burst your bubble, but the drive to Twin Falls from the palouse is almost as long as the drive to the Icefields Parkway. Why drive 8 hrs for some desert sport-mixed climbs when world class ice is the same drive? To each his own, I guess. Quote
Craig Pope Posted February 9, 2007 Posted February 9, 2007 Well, perhaps I am on the wrong forum, should one read between the lines. . . I should be on the 'looking for ice climbing buddy' I'll take my bubble some place else. Quote
Craig Pope Posted February 9, 2007 Posted February 9, 2007 Oh wait, maybe cause been there done that, why not try something else??? Quote
vert Posted February 10, 2007 Posted February 10, 2007 here is some more twin falls action from the same weekend. we talked with dean lords who has bolted three lines there in all. he told us that he hadn't redpointed this one as of yet, and unfortunately, the ice all fell down a few days ago which will delay success possibly until next season. twin indeed has a long history of bold traditional routes put up by quiet locals that climb brave as well as hard. don't let the media hype fool you. tough mixed routes at twin aren't new there, rp's and pins aren't regularly left behind. "pro" climbers like dean have to sensationalize there efforts for sponsorship commitments with little regard for those who live there. commercial climbing can be like that though. fact is, most of the climbing around there is on private ground with sensitive access, and it is a shame that it had to be brought into the spot light even after a word of confidentiality was assumed. /Twin Falls 095.jpg/Users/kristinhauter/Pictures/twinfalls/DSCN2825.JPG Quote
Craig Pope Posted February 15, 2007 Posted February 15, 2007 thanks. . .know who you talk to go correctly go about accessing the land for future reference??? did Lords mention anything about that??? Quote
deanlords Posted February 21, 2007 Posted February 21, 2007 It is unfortunate to see someone who does not know me post comments about my motivations, ambitions, or reasons for equipping a route. Or to go as far as to bastardize why i climb. I would like to comment on the private property issue. The largest threat to access in Twin Falls is not new routes, fixed gear, media exposure, or the like. It is from those local and visiting climbers who chose to ingnore and/or disregard the simple fact that we are recreating on private property. The Perrine Coulee route Indulgence, is on public land. The other routes I have equipped at the Mother Lode area are located on land recently aquired by the City of Twin Falls. This area is not yet open for public use (as the big sign indicates), but the City of Twin Falls does tollerate recreation on this land. A simple phone call to the Parks and Rec. dept. would provide you with the same information i obtained from them. Yes, many climbers, including myself have climbed dozens of traditionally protected lines in the Snake River Canyon. Many are bold and difficult and in no way should these routes or efforts from locals and visiting climbers be overlooked. For the last two winters i have asked several of the locals if they would mind the addition of a handful of fun and safe sport routes. All those i talked to thought this would be okay. These sport rigs, or anything else i do or have done, are in no way an effort to maintain any sort of sponsorship commitment. My affiliation with climbing companies is based on other reasons, not related to media exposure or the establishment of routes. I simply wanted to open a handful of routes for others (such as my wife) not adapt to the traditional lines of the Snake River Canyon. Like i told you and the others, I do care what you guys think and want all to be okay with the new additions to the Snake River Canyon. I would also like to comment on the "word of confidentiality". For the record. The climbing at Twin Falls is not a secret and has been that way since the beginning. I do not subcribe to the stanch elite-ism that is rampant in climbing. As someone who enjoys traveling to other destinations, which means i'm an outsider climbing at 'someone elses crag', i value those indivduals who are willing to share route information and provide beta, whether it is in the form of a guidebook or verbally. I will continue to reciprocate that same good nature to others in hopes of everyone having a fun and enjoyable experience. Which is the reason i go climbing in the first place, you know, to have fun. Feel free to contact me anytime if you have concerns, questions, want to know my motives, or are in need of beta. There is enough shit in the world already, why do we need to bring it into an aspect of our lives where we find enjoyment? Next time just ask me why instead of making an assumption based on your perception of a "pro" climber. It kinda hurt my feelings... Dean Lords deanlords@gmail.com Quote
p_tapley Posted March 9, 2007 Posted March 9, 2007 attribute the criticism to jealousy and lack of vision Dean. don't let anyone deter you. climbing is art, no? and new-routing the blank canvas on which the artists express themselves; while some is crap, others are classics and that determination is founded in one's vision and ability to apply it. your line is beautiful and no doubt of high quality. given time, I'm sure it will only grow in esteem and classic status. keep doin' your thang. Quote
zeroforhire Posted July 12, 2007 Posted July 12, 2007 dean, thanks for the info.. I really admire the work you have done with this... once I get to the point where I can climb that, I will be sure to stop by and check it out. once again, nice work. Quote
akicebum Posted September 29, 2007 Posted September 29, 2007 Hate to burst your bubble, but there are probably a tenth as many people there because everyone and their brother (myself included) is on the parkway. I saw hear about palouse after the season was alread over, but I am definitely going to check it out at least once this year. Quote
Jake_Gano Posted October 2, 2007 Posted October 2, 2007 Hey akicebum, Do you live near the palouse? Have you been here before? The ice season last year was exceptionally good, we had many things form up here that I hadn't seen in my previous three winters. That being said, there still is pretty slim pickings, and I think the longest routes are still about 40ft. I'm not trying to tell you to keep away or anything, but I doubt I'd go out of my way to visit here. Jake Quote
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