It is unfortunate to see someone who does not know me post comments about my motivations, ambitions, or reasons for equipping a route. Or to go as far as to bastardize why i climb.
I would like to comment on the private property issue. The largest threat to access in Twin Falls is not new routes, fixed gear, media exposure, or the like. It is from those local and visiting climbers who chose to ingnore and/or disregard the simple fact that we are recreating on private property. The Perrine Coulee route Indulgence, is on public land. The other routes I have equipped at the Mother Lode area are located on land recently aquired by the City of Twin Falls. This area is not yet open for public use (as the big sign indicates), but the City of Twin Falls does tollerate recreation on this land. A simple phone call to the Parks and Rec. dept. would provide you with the same information i obtained from them.
Yes, many climbers, including myself have climbed dozens of traditionally protected lines in the Snake River Canyon. Many are bold and difficult and in no way should these routes or efforts from locals and visiting climbers be overlooked. For the last two winters i have asked several of the locals if they would mind the addition of a handful of fun and safe sport routes. All those i talked to thought this would be okay. These sport rigs, or anything else i do or have done, are in no way an effort to maintain any sort of sponsorship commitment. My affiliation with climbing companies is based on other reasons, not related to media exposure or the establishment of routes. I simply wanted to open a handful of routes for others (such as my wife) not adapt to the traditional lines of the Snake River Canyon. Like i told you and the others, I do care what you guys think and want all to be okay with the new additions to the Snake River Canyon.
I would also like to comment on the "word of confidentiality". For the record. The climbing at Twin Falls is not a secret and has been that way since the beginning. I do not subcribe to the stanch elite-ism that is rampant in climbing. As someone who enjoys traveling to other destinations, which means i'm an outsider climbing at 'someone elses crag', i value those indivduals who are willing to share route information and provide beta, whether it is in the form of a guidebook or verbally. I will continue to reciprocate that same good nature to others in hopes of everyone having a fun and enjoyable experience. Which is the reason i go climbing in the first place, you know, to have fun.
Feel free to contact me anytime if you have concerns, questions, want to know my motives, or are in need of beta. There is enough shit in the world already, why do we need to bring it into an aspect of our lives where we find enjoyment? Next time just ask me why instead of making an assumption based on your perception of a "pro" climber. It kinda hurt my feelings...
Dean Lords
deanlords@gmail.com
