Matt_Alford Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 Trip: Lillooet, BC - Oregon Jack, Shreddie Attempt, Closet Secrets Date: 1/20/2007 Trip Report: I met Alan in B-Ham late Friday and crashed for a few hours. Woke early and rolled to Oregon Jack. Fat, cold, brittle. I broke a pick and had to lower and reload. Second attempt and I broke my face when I tapped a microwave sized blob a little to hard. Cussing, bleeding, and more climbing followed. Dr. Kearney inspected the wounds and prescribed steri-strips and Jack Daniels. Oregon Jack in Fat Conditons Wounded Recovering Sunday we drove South 99 to go and have a "look" at Shreddie. Much warmer today. I led first pitch to the cave, should have brought raingear and umbrella. Alan led up 30 feet out of cave onto bad ice and with bad pro. We bailed and had a go at Closet Secrets next door. A little thin in places, but good pro and good rests. Canadian hardmen Craig and Joe showed up and sent Shreddie in leashless style. Snapped some photos of them on the steeps. Good times in BC. Shreddie Alan on pitch one Alan climbing out of cave Closet Secrets Craig following on Shreddie Approach Notes: Head North to border, smile and show passport, continue north. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 Nice ice stokey :tup: I wish I could get across the border with a smile. It usually requires some pleading and a promise to my partner to cut my hair before I come across next time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanstaafl Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 They didn't even ask to see our passports last time. Must have been due to rat's aura of respectability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin_Matlock Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 Nice! Can't go wrong with helmet instructions like the following, either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceslut Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 regarding Lillooet...how does the area hold up through the year "usually"? I am trying to plan a mid february trip with a friend and we wanted to go somewhere different than montucky (where we are both from - he still lives there). canada seemed like a good bet, but if the ice conditions aren't anywhere near dependable, i might choose to avoid the guessing game and go with what i know. any thoughts are appreciated. and yes, i am aware that ice is unpredictable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 there is almost always climbable ice in february, but you could be screwed if you came to lillooet in mid-feb hoping for a lot of ice. or you could luck out with fine ice. cause .... there is no way any one can predict now how much ice there will be in in lillooet mid-feb. might be 2 routes or 100. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Alford Posted January 23, 2007 Author Share Posted January 23, 2007 Go to the Canadian Rockies...I have climbed in Lillooet until March in past years but it is very unpredictable. February could be a wash...go with the sure bet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 But anyways why do you have to decide now where you are going to climb in mid-Feb? It's not like you need to make reservations. Decide the night before you leave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceslut Posted January 24, 2007 Share Posted January 24, 2007 thanks for the thoughts. i have family in montucky; if i'm visitin' it helps to let them know in advance so they can prepare for my greatness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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