Slesse

[chossinator]

Anybody have any recent beta in the condition of the Pocket Glacier or advise on gaining access to the butress.

Any info in the decent would also be appreciated (will one 60m be adequate).

 

Thanks for any help

[Cpt.Caveman]

You'll die by the hand of the pocket pool glacier of death

[chossinator]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

You'll die by the hand of the pocket pool glacier of death

---

I will keep that in mind while I am sprinting across

[Cpt.Caveman]

Beware the infamous snaffle will eat your gear up if you try to bivy

 

Really it's not that bad- have good un.

[Dru]

The ice, as of a week and a bit ago, was down to just above the "buttress toe" start. So doing the bypass you would need to cross the pocket and otherwise you would start with potential for icefaling on you.

 

As for the descent I hear you need to make 1 50m rap.

[Cpt.Caveman]

Spicy!

 

Looks like you need to walk across the pocket of death Glacier

 

I cant remember the rappels. We had twin 50m ropes though. I remember that being useful to get off the summit quickly.

[Dru]

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=8;t=000132

 

and next time remember - LOOK BEFORE YOU POST

[chossinator]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Dru:

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=8;t=000132

 

and next time remember - LOOK BEFORE YOU POST

---

already read it

[allthumbs]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Dru:

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=8;t=000132

 

and next time remember - LOOK BEFORE YOU POST

---

Who's got the time to review your 6000 posts? bwahahaha

[Highlander]

Anybody out there done the cross over decent, or have any good beta?

[Dru]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Highlander:

Anybody out there done the cross over decent, or have any good beta?

---

If you expect to bivi you will end up bivying.

 

If you dont expect to bivi you will bivi anyways.

 

If you cut open a snafflehound with your lightsaber you can make a mitten out of it to keep your hand warm

[Cpt.Caveman]

There's a short TR of the Crossover Descent done by a guy on Bivouac.com Do a search for slesse then Trip Reports. He did it last year.

[Cpt.Caveman]

PS I bet you bivy or spend and entire night thrutching in the mountains by headlamp.

 

[ 08-29-2002, 02:40 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

[robertm]

We got down with one 50m rope. No big deal at all. It might be a bit faster with two ropes but probably not enough to justify the weight.

[Cpt.Caveman]

My armchair analysis for them-

 

I know they got one car and no bike.

 

Pocket of death glacier is pain in the neck, making for slow time, and maybe even the toe start.

 

Days are getting shorter.

 

Crossover still seems to require some downclimbing and possibly at night if they dont move quick.

 

Slesse Creek descent will require Drew and Ray to give ride since we be in the area (if they don't make a bivy) or walk\ride bike around.

 

My recommendation- bring your lightsabers guys

[Highlander]

I think I'll pack a lightsaber instead of an axe. Still planning on not bivying. Tex did score a bike, but its probably a kids bike he stole with training wheels still attached.

[Cpt.Caveman]

Right on good luck. Make that bastard ride the bike too. Be safe on Pocket of Death Crossing.

[Highlander]

If you guys happen upon us on the death march out of there, and offer a ride. We will deffinatly buy you a beer. Cheers and good climbing this weekend!

[Cpt.Caveman]

We might drive up on your camp (Neasak Creek) drunk Friday and throw beer bottles at you for fun.

 

Just kidding - always bro - always.

[Dru]

Actually methinks we are going in and out via Nesakwatch Creek but whatever works. Maybe some helicopter will fly up and offer us a free ride downas was reported not long ago.

 

Incidentally I saw in the local paper that the two dudes from Portland, OR who flew in got "off route" during bad weather (I think it was the 15 minute snow shower I saw from Nesakwatch) and had to be rescued from a ledge by SAR helicopter after being reported overdue on Tuesday. EPIC

[Cpt.Caveman]

Yeah if we see sorry ass Tex riding a girly bike with training wheels he'll get the ride. But maybe the helo will be there for ya too

[Highlander]

maybe I should take a cell phone just in case.

[sk]

Just be safe and have alpine fun all of y'all

 

Girlie bike training wheels, jeez who do you bozo's think i am.... Although it would be realy funny to see tex ride sneaky fingers bike

[Dru]

Highlander and Tex check it out and if you post a TR then I will delete this if you want.

 

http://www.bivouac.com/RtePg.asp?RteId=1206

[Highlander]

Cool. Tex made some bold leads on runout 5.10 overhanging vegitated cracks. Another fun epic in the alpine. I will submit a TR later. I am still trying to find out exactly what we climbed. Does that face have a name?