Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
chossinator

Slesse

Recommended Posts

Anybody have any recent beta in the condition of the Pocket Glacier or advise on gaining access to the butress.

Any info in the decent would also be appreciated (will one 60m be adequate).

 

Thanks for any help [smile]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

You'll die by the hand of the pocket pool glacier of death
[chubit]

I will keep that in mind while I am sprinting across

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The ice, as of a week and a bit ago, was down to just above the "buttress toe" start. So doing the bypass you would need to cross the pocket and otherwise you would start with potential for icefaling on you.

 

As for the descent I hear you need to make 1 50m rap.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Spicy!

 

Looks like you need to walk across the pocket of death Glacier [Eek!]

 

I cant remember the rappels. We had twin 50m ropes though. I remember that being useful to get off the summit quickly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by Highlander:

Anybody out there done the cross over decent, or have any good beta?

If you expect to bivi you will end up bivying.

 

If you dont expect to bivi you will bivi anyways.

 

If you cut open a snafflehound with your lightsaber you can make a mitten out of it to keep your hand warm

[sNAFFLEHOUND]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There's a short TR of the Crossover Descent done by a guy on Bivouac.com Do a search for slesse then Trip Reports. He did it last year.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

PS I bet you bivy [Wazzup] or spend and entire night thrutching in the mountains by headlamp.

 

[ 08-29-2002, 02:40 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We got down with one 50m rope. No big deal at all. It might be a bit faster with two ropes but probably not enough to justify the weight.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My armchair analysis for them-

 

I know they got one car and no bike.

 

Pocket of death glacier is pain in the neck, making for slow time, and maybe even the toe start.

 

Days are getting shorter.

 

Crossover still seems to require some downclimbing and possibly at night if they dont move quick.

 

Slesse Creek descent will require Drew and Ray to give ride since we be in the area (if they don't make a bivy) or walk\ride bike around. [big Grin]

 

My recommendation- bring your lightsabers guys [Wazzup]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I'll pack a lightsaber instead of an axe. Still planning on not bivying. Tex did score a bike, but its probably a kids bike he stole with training wheels still attached.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you guys happen upon us on the death march out of there, and offer a ride. We will deffinatly buy you a beer. [big Drink] Cheers and good climbing this weekend!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We might drive up on your camp (Neasak Creek) drunk Friday and throw beer bottles at you for fun. [big Drink]

 

Just kidding - always bro - always.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Actually methinks we are going in and out via Nesakwatch Creek but whatever works. Maybe some helicopter will fly up and offer us a free ride downas was reported not long ago.

 

Incidentally I saw in the local paper that the two dudes from Portland, OR who flew in got "off route" during bad weather (I think it was the 15 minute snow shower I saw from Nesakwatch) and had to be rescued from a ledge by SAR helicopter after being reported overdue on Tuesday. [big Grin] EPIC [big Grin]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah if we see sorry ass Tex riding a girly bike with training wheels he'll get the ride. But maybe the helo will be there for ya too [MR T]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just be safe and have alpine fun [big Grin] all of y'all

 

Girlie bike training wheels, jeez who do you bozo's think i am.... Although it would be realy funny to see tex ride sneaky fingers bike [laf][laf]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cool. Tex made some bold leads on runout 5.10 overhanging vegitated cracks. Another fun epic in the alpine. I will submit a TR later. I am still trying to find out exactly what we climbed. Does that face have a name?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×