KariBru Posted January 16, 2007 Posted January 16, 2007 I am new to mountaineering and eventually would like to get into ice climbing. Anyway, over the weekend at Mt. Saint Helens I slipped and slid about 700FT. We were up at about 7000FT. The slope was steep and very icy. I only had crampons, no ice axe(that is about to change). I was on my back, feet headed down my arms were out. In panic I started steping to slow my self down and of course hurt my ankle (lucky that was all). The hike back down was painful and it still is walking. My question is: is there anything else (besides better footing and use of an ice axe) that I could have done to stop myself without injury? Quote
G-spotter Posted January 16, 2007 Posted January 16, 2007 ice axes are the primary tool for self arrest. you found out the hard way that crampons are a poor substitute. belaying and protecting such a slope with ropes and snow pro (pickets, flukes) would also be an option. Quote
sexual_chocolate Posted January 16, 2007 Posted January 16, 2007 jeez be careful man. even with an ice axe, it's hard to self-arrest after falling on steep ice. you just gotta be careful with each step, and place your crampons and axes carefully. I haven't heard of personal mobile airbags or anything to cushion the impact from a long slide, so precaution might be the thing you are looking for. Quote
BirdDog Posted January 16, 2007 Posted January 16, 2007 My question is: is there anything else (besides better footing and use of an ice axe) that I could have done to stop myself without injury? Yes, there is something - knowledge of how to travel in mountain terrain. Arm yourself with knowledge and don;t go places you do not have the skill to negotiate. Glad you're not dead! Quote
Hendershot Posted January 16, 2007 Posted January 16, 2007 In addition to an ice ax, pick up "Freedom of the Hills" book by the Mountaneers. They cover multiple techniques for self arrest as well as a valuable information on glaicer travel. Quote
billcoe Posted January 16, 2007 Posted January 16, 2007 knowledge of how to travel in mountain terrain. Arm yourself with knowledge and don;t go places you do not have the skill to negotiate. Glad you're not dead! My thoughts exactly. Knowledge is the very most powerful thing you can have. Everything else is secondary. Without knowledge, even if you'd have had an ice axe you could have had the pick pluck your eye out. Then your ankle and your eye would be hurting. Quote
sweatinoutliquor Posted January 16, 2007 Posted January 16, 2007 One technique is to dig your knees or elbows into the snow while keeping you feet lifted up (see FOTH?). Doesn't work on ice or hard snow, but is maybe better than nothing. Here's a stupid thought that I wouldn't recomend: what if you were heading downhill on your stomach head first and tried digging the tops of your front points in? I know it would put you in line for a head first impact, but if you happen to fall that way and don't have an axe? Quote
Climb On Posted January 17, 2007 Posted January 17, 2007 Hi there KariBru! You are very lucky you are not dead! The very first thing you should do really really should do is take some mountaineering courses through organized climbing institutions and learn how to climb and place protection correctly and how to self arrest in all positions of a fall. Second thing you should do is buy an ice axe. The Mountain Gods let you live, that does not always happen. I don't know your area of the country, I live in Northern California and climb with Sierra Wilderness Seminars out of Mt. Shasta, California. RMI is a very good climbing organization, Eric Simonson is a professional climber and all of his guides are great. The Mountaineers is another organization. I would say to sign up immediately before you do any more climbing on your own, especially if you're going out there by yourself. Ed Viesturs, a great mountaineer of our time, says: "Live to climb another day." So, go on line and find yourself a climbing school/organization and learn to climb on!! Cheers!! Patty Quote
Alpinfox Posted January 17, 2007 Posted January 17, 2007 Climbing clubs are not the only way to learn safe climbing. I'd wager Simonson didn't learn that way for example. Quote
billcoe Posted January 17, 2007 Posted January 17, 2007 Nor did Joe Simson and Simon Yates eh Fox? Karibro, read this. New to climbing what do I do click here. Good luck, many of us who started before schols, have some real near death ugly but interesting experinces. Better to learn and practice safetly eh? Quote
OrganDonor Posted January 17, 2007 Posted January 17, 2007 You lived, therefore you have already learned. I'm sure you will now make sure every foot placement is solid from now on. However not everything can be learned the hard way. Read, Practice, Find a more experience partner to suck knowledge from. Quote
KariBru Posted January 18, 2007 Author Posted January 18, 2007 Sweet. Thanks so much guys. I am glad it is only an anle injury and nothing more. Thanks for the info and your time. Quote
Clavote Posted January 19, 2007 Posted January 19, 2007 Hey man, you survived that fall. Glad to hear it. Get a helmet as well as that axe and some climbing instruction. Good luck! Quote
Maestro Posted January 19, 2007 Posted January 19, 2007 Climbing clubs are not the only way to learn safe climbing. I'd wager Simonson didn't learn that way for example. Actually...he went through the Mounties basic class, Tacoma branch. Quote
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