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Posted

I've decided to upgrade my approach shoes this summer from New Balance running shoes to some sort or bona fide approach shoe. I'd like something lightweight, decent on 5th class rock, comfortable for running on trails, and of course stylish :grin:

What do you use/like?

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Posted

The Vasque trailrunning shoes have been great multitaskers for me; I originally got them exclusively for running but found that they worked great for approaches, scrambling, etc on my climbing trips.

 

Saves bringing separate shoes for each activity. :tup:

 

As far as stylish, the last pair fit the bill, sporting a low-profile earthy green color, but I've heard that the latest crop is a now some gawd-awful color.

 

I should have stocked up. Shoot. :cry:

Posted

The ones that fit your feet. There are a gazillion shoes out there that will work if they fit your feet well.

 

Salomon XA comp pro 3d work for me.

Posted

My experiences:

 

Garmont Sticky Twist - great support, good grip, durable, relatively stiff sole, my top choice of the shoes I've owned. They don't make 'em anymore, but here is the current version:

garmontspinf04.l.jpg

 

Montrail D7 - Lightweight, more sneaker like, climbs good (probably the best of the ones I've tried), flimsy, not durable:

 

l_103708_s05_gry.jpg

 

La Sportiva Exum Ridge - Lightest, running-shoe-like fit, durable, not as sticky, don't climb as well:

l_101440_s05_gry.jpg

 

Posted

I use the salomon 3D's too, great for trail running and approaches, like, breath great, not real stiff like approach shoes, which makes going fast for more. Light!

Posted

I looked at approach shoes off-and-on for a couple of years, and talked them over with climber/employees I trusted in local gear shops. I concluded that most of the offerings were execises in styling that came up short in grip and durability (read "created by the marketing department"). This might not be true for all approach shoes, but I gave up looking and either use (Vasque) trail running shoes or (Boreal) midweight hiking boots.

When possible I stash these at the end of the approach and pick them up on the way back out.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Nike exum/ACG Air Cinder Cone or whatever they call them now. Once I heard Nike droped the shoe from the lineup I bought an extra pair plus a replacement once my first pair fell apart. Too bad they don't last longer. It climbs great, fits my wide forefoot-narrow heel-high instep feet just fine, and gives me much needed ankle support. I have recurring ankle problems.

 

Last year I lead trad 5.8 in them. I can only lead 5.9 on a good day with rock shoes, for comparison.

 

Good luck finding a pair.

Posted

I've used the Montrail D7 approach shoes for the last 2+ years and they have performed exceptionally well. Stiff soles, good grip, and light weight. Pretty good on rock (have comfortably done 5.10+), but can't comment for trail running since I've only hiked in them.

 

If I ever need to replace them I'll buy the exact same pair.

Posted

If you've got the bucks go for the guide 10's with stealth rubber. Lots of the running/hiking shoes have too much plastic in the sole, bad on wet rock.

 

5-10-gt.jpg [

 

up to 5.10 if you tighten them up. Nelson uses a piece of ensolite in the heel.

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