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kevbone

The Optimists?

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Does anybody know if this has a second Accent? By who?

 

bone,

sonny trotter climbed the second ascent.

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bone,

sonny trotter climbed the second ascent.

 

Cool, do you know when? and did he agree with the grade?

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but there are still bomber nut placements side by side with bolts. should an aid climb that can be enjoyed by many be retro bolted to only be free climbed by 2 people?

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but there are still bomber nut placements side by side with bolts. should an aid climb that can be enjoyed by many be retro bolted to only be free climbed by 2 people?

 

Well said!

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Go chop 'em then tiger!

 

Although, let's put it this way. Sonnie has freed Cobra Crack (only one of the three hardest trad routes in the world), and Monkey Face East Face without bolts. That Rodden chick has done some 13d trad here and there too and freed El Cap routes. So, if it's so good to protect on trad gear, how come these trad masters didn't bother nuttin' it eh?

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because they couldnt pony up and do so... hence why it was probably bolted in the first place. if i was in to chopping, that route would be first on my list. i also thought the route was called the great roof... but i guess when you add bolts and free climb it you can call it what ever the fuck you want :fahq::battlecage::wazup:

Edited by corvallisclimb

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Go chop 'em then tiger!

 

Although, let's put it this way. Sonnie has freed Cobra Crack (only one of the three hardest trad routes in the world), and Monkey Face East Face without bolts. That Rodden chick has done some 13d trad here and there too and freed El Cap routes. So, if it's so good to protect on trad gear, how come these trad masters didn't bother nuttin' it eh?

 

Also well said....but I wonder why Sonnie did clip the bolts being that there is gear on it? Maybe because its smith rock? If someone took that ethic of bolting old aid climbs to the valley.....they would be shot. No one would stand for it.

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A better question to ask is why Sonnie skipped the bolts on East Face of Monkey but clipped them on this one. Maybe because this one is better off bolted.

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trying to aid that route clean and skip bolts i took numerous falls onto shitty gear, including both static long daisy falls onto a two cammed yellow alien and a #1 metolious nut... shit hols even in smith tuft. the reason he probably did that was because the gear messed with his finger locks.

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Well said on both sides of this discussion, it comes down to ethics. If I decided to bolt an old aid line that was only climbed 2 or 3 times a year….say at Beacon. I would be cast out of the community. Tires slashed and beat. Same thing if you tried that in Yosemite. Try bolting an old A4 line there and you will never be able to return. So is Smith ethics different? Well…..probably but Beth and Tommy (who have climbed everywhere in the world) should know better. If you can’t free it as it stands (since others have ascended it) you let it go. No bolts.

In any case, like I said……Its Smith Rock.

 

Just my thoughts.

 

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kevin,

tommy and beth did not bolt this climb - beth did the first free ascent.

 

alan watts and brook sandhal (sp?) bolted it in the 80's.

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kevin,

tommy and beth did not bolt this climb - beth did the first free ascent.

 

alan watts and brook sandhal (sp?) bolted it in the 80's.

 

Oh... my bad! Thats what I get for assuming. Thanks mark.

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You armchair wankers who bring up this kind of crap are idiots, plain and simple. Claiming some beat-out choss seam is somehow being ruined by bolts, or that the people who have freed it are unqualified to make the call as to whether it will take gear...you do not get it. You are trying to criticize people who are pushing the limits of this sport and climbing things in a style you cannot even begin to comprehend, and whimpering about how you aided this pile once and so you should have a say. No. When your inept aid attempt qualifies as a worthwhile advance in climbing standards, you might have something to say; until then, stick to beating your forehead with your wall hammer until you have the sense to shut your drooling yap.

 

Love,

Dr. Flash Amazing

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This topic is silly but hard to get away from. Many bolted routes at Smith could be lead a natural gear if you really wanted to. But why would you want to? With the exception of the Lower Gorge the crack climbing at Smith is ass. (here comes the storm about Lion's Jaw and Super Slab being the the best cracks in the west) Be honest with yourself and call a spade a spade.

 

You probably could aid lots of the Smith routes on natural gear, but again why the hell would you want to? Smith rock is swag at best. There will never be a shortage of obscure difficult, aid routes to climb in the world. That might be the best part of aiding. The ability to get away from the crowds and climb something that everyone would pass by.

 

Smith is a zoo by any standard. Mostly it annoys me. I'd rather climb granite splitters. The rock is ass but with bolts it can be climbed safely and be a lot of fun. Everything you'd want from a sport crag. Even suggesting that any bolts be removed at smith because there is some potential for a person to aid the pitch is not only stupid, but makes you look like an ass. Climbers shouldn't agree about everything, but I think a tad bit of common sense will tell you that bolting a obscure aid route at smith for free climbing is probably just fine.

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but there are still bomber nut placements side by side with bolts. should an aid climb that can be enjoyed by many be retro bolted to only be free climbed by 2 people?

go aid it on nuts only, duh... :rolleyes:

\

whoops...i see that you did...nevermind...

Edited by RuMR

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