thelawgoddess Posted July 10, 2002 Posted July 10, 2002 can u wall be rapped off of? i have someone asking if there's an alternate way off of u wall aside from exiting via the roman chimneys? (in light of the falcon-related limitations ...) Quote
Dru Posted July 10, 2002 Posted July 10, 2002 you cant walk off bellygood until the falcons are done nesting on it matt... however if you are gonna aid U wall then roman chims can be aided too at similar grade... if you are gonna free UW then likewise roman chims will be no problemo... or you can just rap off (need 2 ropes 55m +60m) via Uncle Bens - but I think Bens is falcon-closed right now so that is a no no too just do the Chimneys!!! Quote
Matt_Anderson Posted July 10, 2002 Posted July 10, 2002 "you cant walk off bellygood until the falcons are done nesting on it matt..." Oh yeah . . . Well, bring something big for the boot flake! I only had a tipped out number three and remember visions of a long fall onto a hard ledge providing motivation to not fall on it. I was way gripped. Quote
LhotseDreems Posted July 11, 2002 Posted July 11, 2002 LawGoddess, We rapped U-Wall, and i would not recommend it to a friend (i'll assume you're a friend ... i'd take *any* other choice. The route traverses making it just about impossible and excedingly scary, not to mention expensive. You'll end up leavin' some gear. Fun route, tho. Have a good time Quote
Dru Posted July 11, 2002 Posted July 11, 2002 please let me know next time you have to leave gear behind on a squamish route as i am always looking to expand my rack Quote
hollyclimber Posted July 11, 2002 Posted July 11, 2002 Dru~ Where can we get more information on the closures? Is there a website or phone number? I had some plans for that area that I put on hold because I heard about the closures...but if you can go up the Roman Wall to avoid BG and closures, that could be cool. thx ERIK- I hope you don't mean my d-dog and my tommy! Quote
hollyclimber Posted July 11, 2002 Posted July 11, 2002 PS I AM ANTI BIRD!! Why do these dumb birds pick the best time to climb walls in Squamish to do their nasty chick raising? We should sterilize them all. hgb Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 11, 2002 Posted July 11, 2002 Holly, I dont think the birds would like you either if you got too close they might just snap at you. Thos suckers are fast and aggressive. P.S. Just call in the chossinator. He'll hand move the nests for us [ 07-11-2002, 10:21 AM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote
Dru Posted July 11, 2002 Posted July 11, 2002 Holly you can check the site Climbers Access Society of BC web or there is info posted in Valhalla-Pure and at MEC concerning the closures showing what areas are closed, open etc. You should check your pms i preplied to you some info about the falcons a month ago and you still haven't looked at it!! As to why the falcons moved - a bald eagle killed the female (Elsie) last year and speculation is the same male (Albert) moved with his new female to a new nest site this year. They chose the Flats..duh they should have moved to NW Passage or Zodiac Wall... Anyways the closure is only until July 31... 3 more weeks... Quote
hollyclimber Posted July 12, 2002 Posted July 12, 2002 Thanks Dru for the info... I think I did read that pm you sent me, but I can't even remember it anymore... I think you gave me the current info, but not the way to find out myself. I didn't want to bug you every day as I monitor the closures!! Anyway, maybe I need a PM lesson, because I don't have it anymore... Or maybe it was because after I hurt my finger in May I was kind of unfocused on climbing in Squish because I didn't know when I would be back in business...but I am back now (after cancelling 4 weekends of Squamish plans for my recovery...argh) hgb [ 07-12-2002, 04:42 PM: Message edited by: hollyclimber ] Quote
hollyclimber Posted July 12, 2002 Posted July 12, 2002 Now, when I read the climber access society link thing it seems to imply that I can climb U Wall because it is not on the Grand Wall at all, and that is all the link says is closed. And it doesn't explicitly say anything about Bellygood... but, I am not going to Squish now until August, so it doesn't matter I guess. Damn birds-making life complicated again. hgb [ 07-12-2002, 04:46 PM: Message edited by: hollyclimber ] Quote
Uncle_Tricky Posted July 13, 2002 Posted July 13, 2002 quote: Dru wrote: please let me know next time you have to leave gear behind on a squamish route as i am always looking to expand my rack Well, I fell and fixed a stopper on the crux pitch of Squamish Buttress two days ago--help yourself if it's still there. Oh, and I dropped a locker off the upper Apron. I suppose since I've found a lot more gear that I've left, that it was my time to give a little something back... [ 07-13-2002, 06:54 AM: Message edited by: Uncle Tricky ] Quote
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