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thelawgoddess

squamish - university wall

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can u wall be rapped off of? i have someone asking if there's an alternate way off of u wall aside from exiting via the roman chimneys? (in light of the falcon-related limitations ...)

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you cant walk off bellygood until the falcons are done nesting on it matt...

 

however if you are gonna aid U wall then roman chims can be aided too at similar grade... if you are gonna free UW then likewise roman chims will be no problemo...

 

or you can just rap off (need 2 ropes 55m +60m) via Uncle Bens - but I think Bens is falcon-closed right now so that is a no no too

 

just do the Chimneys!!!

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"you cant walk off bellygood until the falcons are done nesting on it matt..."

 

Oh yeah . . .

 

Well, bring something big for the boot flake! I only had a tipped out number three and remember visions of a long fall onto a hard ledge providing motivation to not fall on it. I was way gripped.

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LawGoddess,

 

We rapped U-Wall, and i would not recommend it to a friend (i'll assume you're a friend [smile] ... i'd take *any* other choice. The route traverses making it just about impossible and excedingly scary, not to mention expensive. You'll end up leavin' some gear. Fun route, tho. Have a good time [smile]

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please let me know next time you have to leave gear behind on a squamish route as i am always looking to expand my rack [big Grin]

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Dru~

Where can we get more information on the closures? Is there a website or phone number? I had some plans for that area that I put on hold because I heard about the closures...but if you can go up the Roman Wall to avoid BG and closures, that could be cool.

 

thx

 

ERIK-

I hope you don't mean my d-dog and my tommy!

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PS

I AM ANTI BIRD!!

Why do these dumb birds pick the best time to climb walls in Squamish to do their nasty chick raising? We should sterilize them all.

 

hgb

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Holly,

 

I dont think the birds would like you either if you got too close they might just snap at you. Thos suckers are fast and aggressive.

 

P.S. Just call in the chossinator. He'll hand move the nests for us [big Grin]

 

[ 07-11-2002, 10:21 AM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

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Holly you can check the site Climbers Access Society of BC web or there is info posted in Valhalla-Pure and at MEC concerning the closures showing what areas are closed, open etc.

 

You should check your pms i preplied to you some info about the falcons a month ago and you still haven't looked at it!!

 

As to why the falcons moved - a bald eagle killed the female (Elsie) last year and speculation is the same male (Albert) moved with his new female to a new nest site this year. They chose the Flats..duh they should have moved to NW Passage or Zodiac Wall...

 

Anyways the closure is only until July 31... 3 more weeks...

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Thanks Dru for the info...

I think I did read that pm you sent me, but I can't even remember it anymore... I think you gave me the current info, but not the way to find out myself. I didn't want to bug you every day as I monitor the closures!!

 

Anyway, maybe I need a PM lesson, because I don't have it anymore...

Or maybe it was because after I hurt my finger in May I was kind of unfocused on climbing in Squish because I didn't know when I would be back in business...but I am back now (after cancelling 4 weekends of Squamish plans for my recovery...argh)

 

hgb

 

[ 07-12-2002, 04:42 PM: Message edited by: hollyclimber ]

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Now, when I read the climber access society link thing it seems to imply that I can climb U Wall because it is not on the Grand Wall at all, and that is all the link says is closed. And it doesn't explicitly say anything about Bellygood...

 

but, I am not going to Squish now until August, so it doesn't matter I guess. Damn birds-making life complicated again.

 

hgb

 

[ 07-12-2002, 04:46 PM: Message edited by: hollyclimber ]

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quote:

Dru wrote: please let me know next time you have to leave gear behind on a squamish route as i am always looking to expand my rack

Well, I fell and fixed a stopper on the crux pitch of Squamish Buttress two days ago--help yourself if it's still there. Oh, and I dropped a locker off the upper Apron.

 

I suppose since I've found a lot more gear that I've left, that it was my time to give a little something back... [Roll Eyes]

 

[ 07-13-2002, 06:54 AM: Message edited by: Uncle Tricky ]

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