corvallisclimb Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 (edited) i've been working on replacing bolts out at smith with lots of brand new hardware from asca. since i havent had time to climb all routes out there, im looking for input on routes and anchors that still have old 1/4"s or shitty homemade hangers. this also applys for other high traffic areas in oregon, ive got tons of hardware that i would like to put to good use... so post up when you see work that needs to be done. old and new rap anchor from bettes needle on staender ridge Edited October 16, 2006 by corvallisclimb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 I seem to remember some crap bolts on the rap off of marsupial traverse (whatever that last upper formation is called, after you do that knife edge traverse down to it). Thanks for putting in the work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 Has Screaming Yellow Zonkers been rebolted yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 yes, I believe it has, as has moons of pluto so they don't share first bolts anymore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 If it hasn't been done in the last several years, there needs to be new anchor bolts at the top of the first pitch belay of the West Face Variation on Monkey Face. For many years I have been backing these up with natural gear as one was old and rusty and the other bolt was loose, but I havnt climbed this for about 5 years, so they may have been replaced. If they are still the old ones and you are going to replace those, I would also move them to the other side of the belay nook. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 the rap rings at the top of bunny face are down to about 25% from people TRing through them. no shit I coulda DIED! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adventurewagen Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 Same with Revelations. It shares anchors with the 10a to the left and has chain links worn 50% through each side from so much TR'ing. At the 2nd pitch of Zebra/Zion after the 10a corner the anchors are good but there is a second anchor with home made hangars/wires there as well that could be removed. That would be just as worthy to clean as placing new anchor bolts too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 come on folks, the sups' traverse has priority over these obscure things. The bolts on the squaw are also a little rickity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlag Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 I second the priority on the Marsupial Traverse anchors. I think they're buttonheads. Pretty manky looking anchor for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 My #1 vote would be the bolts on Santiam Hwy Ledges. Awesome route! It would be even better with traffic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 The bolts on the squaw are also a little rickity. There are bolts up there? All I saw was a talking vulture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 I agree with the marsups. I rapped off the anchors after the knife edge travers at the end. Pretty scary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retired Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 Hey Tyler, I'm back from a long road trip south...let's get together...oh the bolts. does it have to be Smith? cause i know where a couple hundred could go in the menagerie, let's talk. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 jim, i have some bolts as well that could be put to good use at the menagerie. let me know. mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retired Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 Tyler and I added the first asca bolts in the menagerie yesterday...a modest start but a start. I would like to systematically replace all the rawl shells with 3/8 bombers. markd I would gladly accept any bolts you have since without donations I'll basicly be paying to put a lot of the routes up twice since a lot of the shells to be replaced are mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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