smith rock bolt replacement

[corvallisclimb]

i've been working on replacing bolts out at smith with lots of brand new hardware from asca. since i havent had time to climb all routes out there, im looking for input on routes and anchors that still have old 1/4"s or shitty homemade hangers. this also applys for other high traffic areas in oregon, ive got tons of hardware that i would like to put to good use... so post up when you see work that needs to be done.

 

old and new rap anchor from bettes needle on staender ridge

Edited October 16, 2006 by corvallisclimb

[Cobra_Commander]

I seem to remember some crap bolts on the rap off of marsupial traverse (whatever that last upper formation is called, after you do that knife edge traverse down to it).

 

Thanks for putting in the work.

[Winter]

Has Screaming Yellow Zonkers been rebolted yet?

[Cobra_Commander]

yes, I believe it has, as has moons of pluto so they don't share first bolts anymore

[shapp]

If it hasn't been done in the last several years, there needs to be new anchor bolts at the top of the first pitch belay of the West Face Variation on Monkey Face. For many years I have been backing these up with natural gear as one was old and rusty and the other bolt was loose, but I havnt climbed this for about 5 years, so they may have been replaced. If they are still the old ones and you are going to replace those, I would also move them to the other side of the belay nook.

[fern]

 

the rap rings at the top of bunny face are down to about 25% from people TRing through them. no shit I coulda DIED!

[Adventurewagen]

Same with Revelations. It shares anchors with the 10a to the left and has chain links worn 50% through each side from so much TR'ing.

 

At the 2nd pitch of Zebra/Zion after the 10a corner the anchors are good but there is a second anchor with home made hangars/wires there as well that could be removed. That would be just as worthy to clean as placing new anchor bolts too.

[Cobra_Commander]

come on folks, the sups' traverse has priority over these obscure things.

 

The bolts on the squaw are also a little rickity.

[jlag]

I second the priority on the Marsupial Traverse anchors. I think they're buttonheads. Pretty manky looking anchor for sure.

[Billy]

My #1 vote would be the bolts on Santiam Hwy Ledges. Awesome route! It would be even better with traffic.

[G-spotter]

 

The bolts on the squaw are also a little rickity.

 

There are bolts up there? All I saw was a talking vulture

[kevbone]

I agree with the marsups. I rapped off the anchors after the knife edge travers at the end. Pretty scary.

[retired]

Hey Tyler,

I'm back from a long road trip south...let's get together...oh the bolts. does it have to be Smith? cause i know where a couple hundred could go in the menagerie, let's talk. Jim

[markd]

jim,

i have some bolts as well that could be put to good use at the menagerie. let me know.

mark

[retired]

Tyler and I added the first asca bolts in the menagerie yesterday...a modest start but a start. I would like to systematically replace all the rawl shells with 3/8 bombers. markd I would gladly accept any bolts you have since without donations I'll basicly be paying to put a lot of the routes up twice since a lot of the shells to be replaced are mine.