Matterhorn w/IMG? Anyone taken a trip w/these guys

[tiaga]

Got a friend who's considering IMG's Matterhorn trip. Does anyone here have experience with IMG's European itinerary?

[tiaga]

Well, has anyone had any experience with International Mountain Guides, Inc.? Eric Simonsen and company? ?? ?

[cj001f]

Unless you need constant handholding, get your guide in Zermatt

[Frikadeller]

Guides are aid....

[Fromage]

If you can climb 5.5 in mountain boots and hold onto enormous fixed lines, the Hornli Ridge is an accessible route and reasonable to climb as a private unguided party. Hence the crowds. If you have a higher level of skill and ambition and you are going to hire a guide, then it makes sense to attempt a less traveled and more challenging route like the Italian or Abruzzi Ridge.

 

Don't just go for the Matterhorn. There is so much more to enjoy in the Alps than this one beehive. It's like people who fly to WA from all over to climb Rainier and don't even know about the N Cascades.

[Bill Slugg]

I led an unguided team up the Hornli Ridge in 1970. What a huge pile of loose rock! We got so damn lost I can't tell you. We ended up on the East Face, cowering, as supersonic rocks flew by, dislodged by people near the summit. Backing off is easy, you can see the wear marks below you. You can't see em going up. I recommend a guide.

[Bigtree]

I can't help you with guide recommendations but suggest you/your buddy get your hands on the Alpinist 16 as a start. Its got some good historical and current info. Here's some pics from their website (such a gorgeous mountain - I'd love to climb it):

 

Thea east and north faces of the Matterhorn at dawn. Valais Alps, Switzerland. [Photo] Mario Colonel

 

Climbers on the Hornli Ridge, the line Whymper and his party took on their first ascent of the mountian in 1865. Today this normal route from the Swiss side may see more than 200 climbers a day, and the passage of innumerable parties has left distinct traces on the rock, in addition to a multitude of fixed ropes. [Photo] Beat Perren

 

The Solvay Refuge, constructed in 1915 at 4003 meters on the Hornli Ridge. Climbing the Matterhorn is a highly social affair; guidebooks recommend an early start for the mountain's normal routes to get a good place in line to the summit. Even the more challenging lines can still be relatively crowded. [Photo] Beat Perren

 

[ScaredSilly]

Though I have meet all three IMG principles I would second the following - crowded route, easy to get off route, get a Zermatt guide and add the following - the rock is slick as snot when wet so getting down is where screws happen.

 

Why a Zermatt guide, cause they are local and they will have more tricks up their sleave to get you the hill. If you want to other peaks that are less crowded then using IMG would fine.

[wfinley]

This was posted in another thread:

 

My friend John was climbing in Europe and after being accosted by local guides insisting that he NEEDED a guide for his climb (I think he was on or near the Matterhorn) almost pulled him off his route by yanking on his lead line repeatedly...worse than the clove hitch trick, but driven by the same insanity....

This explains why people tell you you have to have a guide on the Matterhorn. There aren't any laws apparently, just "hoodlum guides", trying to protect their monopoly.

 

Sounds crazy but it all depends on local perception. Having just climbed in Nepal without a guide I can attest to this mindset; In Nepal we were continaully asked where our guide was and on one occasion were yelled at and told there was no room for climbers without guides.

[tiaga]

Thank you all for your input. I think my friends will do fine as guided clients on the Hornli Ridge. I'd just like to see that they have their best Matterhorn trip. Thanks again, Tiaga

[hopper_62]

eric simonson is a great guy. go with a sure thing.

[tiaga]

I shared a snow cave on Rainier with Eric in '75 and thought then that he was a great kid. He's had quite a career. Thanks for your input. Taiga