catbirdseat Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 I'm looking for information on these two less often climbed route on Castle Rock in Tumwater Canyon. I'd heard Saints is somewhat lichen covered, especially on the second pitch. Is it worth doing? On Old Gray Mare, what do you do after the first pitch? It's a one pitch route, right? Then you finish on the second pitch of Canary? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 Finish with Crack of Doom! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 Have fun in the pod on Saints Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 Saints is pretty cool. There is some lichen to deal with but you should be able to find the path through it. Go up to tree on first pitch. Then on second, follow obvious LFC corner up to a ledge below a RFC. There is an old bolt on this ledge. Instead of taking the RFC (less exposed but perhaps harder?) walk down the ledge to the right then follow a sequence of jugs directly up the arete. Way cool. With a 60m we were able to stretch it from the tree to the top. After Old Gray Mare you should do Crack of Doom of course!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted September 29, 2006 Author Share Posted September 29, 2006 Crack of Doom is 5.10a, if I recall. Do I have a different option if I don't want to lead Crack of Doom? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 Yes. You can walk/scramble down the ramp that goes to the base of Crack of Doom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted September 29, 2006 Author Share Posted September 29, 2006 Can I get onto Canary p2 from Old Gray Mare? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 You could traverse left until you get into Winter Solstice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 You can get onto Canary, pitch2 from the top of Old Gray Mare. From a gear belay on top of Old Gray Mare, just go right and up. Makes for a fine two pitch climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted September 30, 2006 Share Posted September 30, 2006 Crack of Doom was 5.8+, then 5.9, now 5.10?! COD feels 5.9, and would be a cool finish to OGM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterMo Posted September 30, 2006 Share Posted September 30, 2006 Crack of Doom was 5.8+, then 5.9, now 5.10?! Shhhh.... I wuz feeling pretty burly there for a brief instant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted September 30, 2006 Author Share Posted September 30, 2006 You can get onto Canary, pitch2 from the top of Old Gray Mare. From a gear belay on top of Old Gray Mare, just go right and up. Makes for a fine two pitch climb. Thank you. That's what I wanted to know. So what is the proper rating for COD? I've seen it rated 5.10b according to some. If it's really 5.9, I'd just go for it. But Castle Rock 5.9 can be quite hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted September 30, 2006 Share Posted September 30, 2006 You can get onto Canary, pitch2 from the top of Old Gray Mare. From a gear belay on top of Old Gray Mare, just go right and up. Makes for a fine two pitch climb. Thank you. That's what I wanted to know. So what is the proper rating for COD? I've seen it rated 5.10b according to some. If it's really 5.9, I'd just go for it. But Castle Rock 5.9 can be quite hard. It has some of the best handjamming at Castle Rock. I head up and right after the crack to the alcove belay on Canary's 2nd pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Posted October 2, 2006 Share Posted October 2, 2006 Nah, Crack of Doom is 5.8+. See Carlstad/Brooks, 1976. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted October 2, 2006 Author Share Posted October 2, 2006 Yeah, but so is the South Face of Jello Tower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted October 2, 2006 Share Posted October 2, 2006 You could traverse left until you get into Winter Solstice That's SO Funny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted October 2, 2006 Share Posted October 2, 2006 yeah, but SF Jello tower IS 5.8 by Castle rock standards... its more in line with "catapult" and easier than Damnation (5.9) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted October 2, 2006 Author Share Posted October 2, 2006 Catapult isn't that hard, but Damnation sure is! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 here is instructions on how to climb saints. Also, in my experience the saints route is a classic fun castle rock outing. It is typically overlooked for some reason or another. The start is a bit awkward but eases greatly after that. The following pitch or two is typical upper castle wandering around but does more-or-less follow a distinct path. If licheny, you are probably off route. Old gray mare, used to have pins and has seen an upgrade...not sure why...however, the route is high quality as well...neat moves above the small roof start. Continuing the pitch into Crack of Doom is highly recommened and makes COD feel 5.10. Otherwise two pitches of 5.8+ and 5.9 respectively. COD is 5.8+/5.9 if you climb thru the bulge in the correct area...because most people do not climb where the path is easiest it pumps them out quickly. I feel if you trend right it is easier than trending left towards the bolt anchor. If there were colored dots up there then everyone could find the easy way up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 Maybe you can use a laser pointer to direct lost climbers to the correct holds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 Maybe you can use a laser pointer to direct lost climbers to the correct holds. nah, dots are better. plus, it would be sooo French. kinda slams the door on the whole need for guidebooks...dots r not aid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted June 18, 2007 Author Share Posted June 18, 2007 Tried to do Saints but I'm quite sure we got off route. We belayed at the bolt anchor rather than going up 20 ft as described on SummitPost. From there we went up and slightly to the right. My best guess from looking at bwrts description is that we must have gone on to Angel. The climbing felt like mostly 5.6-5.7. The rock was quite clean. All the same we had an enjoyable outing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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