Saints and Old Gray Mare

[catbirdseat]

I'm looking for information on these two less often climbed route on Castle Rock in Tumwater Canyon.

 

I'd heard Saints is somewhat lichen covered, especially on the second pitch. Is it worth doing?

 

On Old Gray Mare, what do you do after the first pitch? It's a one pitch route, right? Then you finish on the second pitch of Canary?

[skykilo]

Finish with Crack of Doom!

[G-spotter]

Have fun in the pod on Saints

[chucK]

Saints is pretty cool. There is some lichen to deal with but you should be able to find the path through it. Go up to tree on first pitch. Then on second, follow obvious LFC corner up to a ledge below a RFC. There is an old bolt on this ledge. Instead of taking the RFC (less exposed but perhaps harder?) walk down the ledge to the right then follow a sequence of jugs directly up the arete. Way cool. With a 60m we were able to stretch it from the tree to the top.

 

After Old Gray Mare you should do Crack of Doom of course!!!

[catbirdseat]

Crack of Doom is 5.10a, if I recall. Do I have a different option if I don't want to lead Crack of Doom?

[chucK]

Yes. You can walk/scramble down the ramp that goes to the base of Crack of Doom.

[catbirdseat]

Can I get onto Canary p2 from Old Gray Mare?

[G-spotter]

You could traverse left until you get into Winter Solstice

[ScottP]

You can get onto Canary, pitch2 from the top of Old Gray Mare. From a gear belay on top of Old Gray Mare, just go right and up. Makes for a fine two pitch climb.

[telemarker]

Crack of Doom was 5.8+, then 5.9, now 5.10?! COD feels 5.9, and would be a cool finish to OGM.

[MisterMo]

Crack of Doom was 5.8+, then 5.9, now 5.10?!

 

Shhhh.... I wuz feeling pretty burly there for a brief instant.

[catbirdseat]

You can get onto Canary, pitch2 from the top of Old Gray Mare. From a gear belay on top of Old Gray Mare, just go right and up. Makes for a fine two pitch climb.

Thank you. That's what I wanted to know. So what is the proper rating for COD? I've seen it rated 5.10b according to some. If it's really 5.9, I'd just go for it. But Castle Rock 5.9 can be quite hard.

[telemarker]

You can get onto Canary, pitch2 from the top of Old Gray Mare. From a gear belay on top of Old Gray Mare, just go right and up. Makes for a fine two pitch climb.

Thank you. That's what I wanted to know. So what is the proper rating for COD? I've seen it rated 5.10b according to some. If it's really 5.9, I'd just go for it. But Castle Rock 5.9 can be quite hard.

 

It has some of the best handjamming at Castle Rock. I head up and right after the crack to the alcove belay on Canary's 2nd pitch.

[Otto]

Nah, Crack of Doom is 5.8+. See Carlstad/Brooks, 1976.

[catbirdseat]

Yeah, but so is the South Face of Jello Tower.

[goatboy]

You could traverse left until you get into Winter Solstice

 

That's SO Funny.

[Blake]

yeah, but SF Jello tower IS 5.8 by Castle rock standards... its more in line with "catapult" and easier than Damnation (5.9)

[catbirdseat]

Catapult isn't that hard, but Damnation sure is!

[bwrts]

here is instructions on how to climb saints.

 

Also, in my experience the saints route is a classic fun castle rock outing. It is typically overlooked for some reason or another. The start is a bit awkward but eases greatly after that. The following pitch or two is typical upper castle wandering around but does more-or-less follow a distinct path.

If licheny, you are probably off route.

 

Old gray mare, used to have pins and has seen an upgrade...not sure why...however, the route is high quality as well...neat moves above the small roof start. Continuing the pitch into Crack of Doom is highly recommened and makes COD feel 5.10. Otherwise two pitches of 5.8+ and 5.9 respectively.

COD is 5.8+/5.9 if you climb thru the bulge in the correct area...because most people do not climb where the path is easiest it pumps them out quickly. I feel if you trend right it is easier than trending left towards the bolt anchor. If there were colored dots up there then everyone could find the easy way up!

[G-spotter]

Maybe you can use a laser pointer to direct lost climbers to the correct holds.

[bwrts]

Maybe you can use a laser pointer to direct lost climbers to the correct holds.

nah, dots are better. plus, it would be sooo French.

kinda slams the door on the whole need for guidebooks...dots r not aid.

[catbirdseat]

Tried to do Saints but I'm quite sure we got off route. We belayed at the bolt anchor rather than going up 20 ft as described on SummitPost. From there we went up and slightly to the right. My best guess from looking at bwrts description is that we must have gone on to Angel. The climbing felt like mostly 5.6-5.7. The rock was quite clean. All the same we had an enjoyable outing.