RuMR Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 Go climb at Castle Rock. The ratings there can be quite stiff for Washington. i have heard that outerspace is just sick for the grade... Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 All right, how many folks have climbed Classic Crack at Broughton Bluff in Portland? what is that rated? I would say easy 5.9. hardman in the houuuusssee Quote
matt_warfield Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 I second the "must jam" theory. Classic Crack (5.8+) in leavenworth absolutely killed me. I chatted with a Leavenworth local after he free soloed a few laps on Classic Crack and he said he feels there is no way he could fall off of it because of the secure jams. I'm on the side of the people who say it's about your crack technique in the absence of face holds or features. How popular do you think Outer Space would be (and what would it be rated) if the headwall didn't have all of those chickenheads? Quote
RuMR Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 better question might be does a 5.10 face climb = 5.8 crack climb? And from what I've seen, trying to face climb a crack seems to increase the difficulty by about 2 or 3 grades so yeah, that's probably about right. (had a chance to watch a couple burgeoning crack climbers who typically follow/gym-climb at 10b/10c but get shutdown at about 5.8+/5.9 when they have to actually climb a crack directly. They both lead at their upper limit about 5.8 cracks on gear, and 10a sport at (Vantage, Smith, etc maybe a wee bit harder at E38) Whether a 5.8 NW crack = 5.8 Yos crack is a different question and as i've never been blessed enough to climb in Yos i have no idea what so ever! Now this is a funny post... Quote
kevbone Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 hardman in the houuuusssee thats funny cobra boy! Quote
kevbone Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 I agree with castle rock. Scarry canary, 5.8 my ass. The first pitch is more like solid 10.a. Quote
RuMR Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 maybe you need to go retro bolt it? then it wouldn't be "scary" canary anymore... Quote
kevbone Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 maybe you need to go retro bolt it? then it wouldn't be "scary" canary anymore... Rumr, as usual, you make me laugh. Mostly because, you have know idea who I am, because you don’t know my past. (which is clear by you last statement). Since you have not climbed canary, I will let it slid. Ha Ha Ha. Quote
RuMR Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 i prolly couldn't get off the ground on canary... Quote
cj001f Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 maybe you need to go retro bolt it? then it wouldn't be "scary" canary anymore... Rumr, as usual, you make me laugh. Mostly because, you have know idea who I am, because you don’t know my past. (which is clear by you last statement). Since you have not climbed canary, I will let it slid. Ha Ha Ha. kevbone - I don't even bother to read your posts anymore - on my screen they just say *** You are Laughing at this User, er Loser *** Quote
G-spotter Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 All right, how many folks have climbed Classic Crack at Broughton Bluff in Portland? what is that rated? I would say easy 5.9. hardman in the houuuusssee After I left my Neutrino on it it was 5.4 Quote
RuMR Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 i heard that canary was hyper stiff...maybe even 5.8 c/d... Quote
G-spotter Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 You get the higher split grade only if there are more than 4 wasps in the crack Quote
RuMR Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 or if McClane was doing the guidebook or if it were at ex 38 or at squamish or if Kevboned was rating it... Quote
ChestBeater Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 I chatted with a Leavenworth local after he free soloed a few laps on Classic Crack and he said he feels there is no way he could fall off of it because of the secure jams. Yeah... It's an easy solo. How popular do you think Outer Space would be (and what would it be rated) if the headwall didn't have all of those chickenheads? I've climbed it without the chicken heads. 5.8. Quote
crimper Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 kevbone, you're killing me. half the time you say this site is "not real" and then the other half of the time you get pissy when people rip on you. so which is it? and either way, keep it up. i love me some free entertainment at work. about canary, i did think the final belly flop - i mean, mantle - on P1 was a bit stiff for 5-8. but just because moves are greasy and awkward doesn't mean the grade should get inflated. and the P2 step-across move is fine for 5-8. and going back the other way, how can air guitar possibly be harder than 5-9? i kept waiting for the 10b part, and got a little spooked as i passed the plaque, and then it was over. is that typical grading for vantage? my vote for sandbag is litle wing at beacon. it goes at 5-8, but never quite feels that way. anyone wanna back me up on that? (besides kevbone, since he's had it wired since the 90s) Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 little wing seemed like 5.8, but every single move was 5.8. it's easier than jill's, harder than cruisin. seems right to me. Then again, I've seen folks get absolutely spanked on it. Interestingly I've found smith (tuff) to be hard coming from beacon, beacon hard coming from smith. Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 Air Guitar is 10a in Yoder's book, and it is notceably softer than George and Martha, which is softer than just about any 10 I've climbed in Leavenworth. But again, different styles as the cracks at vantage are steeper than most moderate cracks in leavenworth. Quote
crimper Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 cobra, about little wing: it's the old "if every single move is the same, do you rate the climb the same grade as those moves, or do you bump the climb's grade up a bit" argument. i agree that it's 5-8. as in, there's no 5-9 move on it, but a leader who has never led 5-9, but has led a handful of 5-8, could easily hang all over the upper half. as for smith tuff, can we agree that lion's jaw is a good example of stiff 5-8? i took two beginners up that, and they barely got it, while they walked up 5-9 and 10a face climbs at smith. also - and i wanna hear it - who has done cling on, on smith's backside? P1 is greasy and hard for 5-8, but P2 is about as hard a 5-9 as i've ever even followed. i bet it gets climbed once a month, tops. Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 both may be 5.8 but lj and cling-on are totally different climbs serving different climbers. cling-on is a full-on jug haul where lions jaw could be climbed w/ feet only. cling-on is tiring and lends itself to bold movements, but there are some pretty big holds on there. I bet that first pitch of clingon gets climbed fairly regularly. smith face and crack (on the tuff) are sorta hard to compare at the lower grades. which is all I know about Quote
Alex Posted September 13, 2006 Posted September 13, 2006 as for smith tuff, can we agree that lion's jaw is a good example of stiff 5-8? i took two beginners up that, and they barely got it... I think Lions Jaw is soft for 5.8, I've led it in Tevas. *thump* *thump*. I don't think Canary and Castle Rock in general are overrated at all, either. Canary is "thoughtprovoking" 5.8, but its not particularly hard, while I think other routes on Castle like Fault-Catapult-Bone, MF Overhang, are spot on. Quote
catbirdseat Posted September 13, 2006 Posted September 13, 2006 Alex, what do you think about Jello Tower SF? Quote
archenemy Posted September 13, 2006 Posted September 13, 2006 Air Guitar is 10a in Yoder's book, and it is notceably softer than George and Martha, which is softer than just about any 10 I've climbed in Leavenworth. But again, different styles as the cracks at vantage are steeper than most moderate cracks in leavenworth. Didn't a guy die on Air Guitar about a year or so ago? Popped off that move right before topping out? Quote
Alex Posted September 13, 2006 Posted September 13, 2006 (edited) It might be "old skool" 5.8+, but its really not that tough, a few tricky moves with generally good pro. Decent rests. It'd probably be 5.8+ at Index too, and 5.10a at ex32/38. The old bolt up there is crap though. Bottom line is that if you are arguing Leavenworth or Index (or Yosemite) ratings, you need to get away from the local crags and take a roadtrip back East and climb at the Gunks, Seneca, Adirondacks, the New River Gorge, or the like...the cragging climbs out East are generally stiffer than anything in Washington, much more on par with Index and Castle. I climbed just a few routes at the New but just about every one of them was damn hard, except a few over at Kaymoor(?). Also Tahquitz or Suicide, JTree. Anyplace where there is a longer history of trad climbing, before "sport climbing" hit in the late 80s. Edited September 13, 2006 by Alex Quote
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