gertlush Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 Sounds alright in the Fairley guide but I haven't really found any info on the route. Worth doing? I'm looking for some shorter rock climbs to round out the season.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 The N face of West Lion is a vegetated shitheap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckiely Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 When I passed by there last year there was a rope fixed on it. Â East Lion might fit your bill if the W is a vegetated shit heap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 the NE Butt of the West Lion is fun. The N face is constantly wet and grassy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gertlush Posted August 29, 2006 Author Share Posted August 29, 2006 I thought that'd be the story. I guess I can always have a look for myself on the way to the NE buttress. I like that area, too bad it's not a stellar 5 star line. Oh well, if my aunty had balls then she'd be my uncle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted August 29, 2006 Share Posted August 29, 2006 Careful, Dru said it was fun not that it wasnt bushy, loose and dirty... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 The Ne Butt may be bushy, but it isn't that loose or dirty and it's a good line. If you wanted steep, clean rock you'd be over on the Pup Butt but then again the original question is looking for "some shorter rock climbs". Â There's a good day of cragging on the Camel btw... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 hey, it doesn't have to be clean and free from vegetation to be good climbing. i've climbed it a cpl times in summer (and once in winter). the route-finding is kinda challenging on site, but it's accurately marked in Fairley. keep thinking "right" once you get onto the main face above the 1st ledge... and may I suggest a hammer and 3 or 4 pitons? Â the "direct" face up the centre (from the tiny snowpatch snown in Fairley just down and left from the "2") has had a cpl of attempts, one of which (if memory serves me correctly) included one of the Haberl brothers attempting to turn a rather large block into a parapente. Â as for the NE buttress, there is one especially delicious ropelength on which you belay in a tree, climb the entire ropelength in trees/bush (essentially without touching the ground), and belay again in a tree - it just doesn't get better! or, maybe, more unique... Â enjoy, cheers, don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ponzini Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 Tried the NE buttress on Sunday, but it was wet and slippery after Saturday's rain (go figure! ) and we bailed after 2 pitches. The route looks fun but has a fair bit of moss and dirt, so I'll wait for a few days of dry weather next time. We took a few pins (thanks to Don's suggestion) and were glad to have them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 A few days of dry weather, or a good freeze Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstach Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 Did you find my neutrino? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ponzini Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 Nope, no neutrinos, all we saw was a rusty pin and a few tatty slings... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gertlush Posted September 13, 2006 Author Share Posted September 13, 2006 How'd the N. Face look? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ponzini Posted September 14, 2006 Share Posted September 14, 2006 Pretty wet after only one day of rain. There was a fair bit of water running down the slabby lower third of the route, but the upper portion looked nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted September 14, 2006 Share Posted September 14, 2006 nice and green? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ponzini Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 (edited) Here's a photo of the climbing that is typical of the NE buttress, you can see why it would be nicer in winter (ice instead of moss). Cam's skeptical look is because I just said I'd like to try one more pitch before bailing  Edited October 17, 2006 by Ponzini Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gertlush Posted October 18, 2006 Author Share Posted October 18, 2006 That look on his face is priceless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 what the hells wrong with that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 That's the 5.3 fist crack section. Crux is somewhere not far above that IIRC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ponzini Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 What's an/the IIRC? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 IMHO, IIRC is like LOL or RTFM. ^-^ You can check teh Internets FAQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Phil Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 But whatever you do, don't Google "Dru fist crack" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dechristo Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 That'd be on the S.Face of North Kitty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ponzini Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 I took your suggestion Drew, always wondered what IMHO meant. Plus I found out where the fuck PDX was! See you in Spray! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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