Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
gertlush

Anyone done N. Face of West Lion?

Recommended Posts

Sounds alright in the Fairley guide but I haven't really found any info on the route. Worth doing? I'm looking for some shorter rock climbs to round out the season..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I passed by there last year there was a rope fixed on it. confused.gif

 

East Lion might fit your bill if the W is a vegetated shit heap?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought that'd be the story. I guess I can always have a look for myself on the way to the NE buttress. I like that area, too bad it's not a stellar 5 star line. Oh well, if my aunty had balls then she'd be my uncle cool.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Ne Butt may be bushy, but it isn't that loose or dirty and it's a good line. If you wanted steep, clean rock you'd be over on the Pup Butt but then again the original question is looking for "some shorter rock climbs".

 

There's a good day of cragging on the Camel btw...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hey, it doesn't have to be clean and free from vegetation to be good climbing. i've climbed it a cpl times in summer (and once in winter). the route-finding is kinda challenging on site, but it's accurately marked in Fairley. keep thinking "right" once you get onto the main face above the 1st ledge...

and may I suggest a hammer and 3 or 4 pitons?

 

the "direct" face up the centre (from the tiny snowpatch snown in Fairley just down and left from the "2") has had a cpl of attempts, one of which (if memory serves me correctly) included one of the Haberl brothers attempting to turn a rather large block into a parapente.

 

as for the NE buttress, there is one especially delicious ropelength on which you belay in a tree, climb the entire ropelength in trees/bush (essentially without touching the ground), and belay again in a tree - it just doesn't get better! or, maybe, more unique...

 

enjoy, cheers, don

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tried the NE buttress on Sunday, but it was wet and slippery after Saturday's rain (go figure! rolleyes.gif) and we bailed after 2 pitches. The route looks fun but has a fair bit of moss and dirt, so I'll wait for a few days of dry weather next time. We took a few pins (thanks to Don's suggestion) and were glad to have them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pretty wet after only one day of rain. There was a fair bit of water running down the slabby lower third of the route, but the upper portion looked nice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's a photo of the climbing that is typical of the NE buttress, you can see why it would be nicer in winter (ice instead of moss). Cam's skeptical look is because I just said I'd like to try one more pitch before bailing cantfocus.gif

 

5362Cam.JPG

Edited by Ponzini

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I took your suggestion Drew, always wondered what IMHO meant. Plus I found out where the fuck PDX was! See you in Spray!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×