Anyone done N. Face of West Lion?

[gertlush]

Sounds alright in the Fairley guide but I haven't really found any info on the route. Worth doing? I'm looking for some shorter rock climbs to round out the season..

[G-spotter]

The N face of West Lion is a vegetated shitheap

[ckiely]

When I passed by there last year there was a rope fixed on it.

 

East Lion might fit your bill if the W is a vegetated shit heap?

[G-spotter]

the NE Butt of the West Lion is fun. The N face is constantly wet and grassy.

[gertlush]

I thought that'd be the story. I guess I can always have a look for myself on the way to the NE buttress. I like that area, too bad it's not a stellar 5 star line. Oh well, if my aunty had balls then she'd be my uncle

[jmace]

Careful, Dru said it was fun not that it wasnt bushy, loose and dirty...

[G-spotter]

The Ne Butt may be bushy, but it isn't that loose or dirty and it's a good line. If you wanted steep, clean rock you'd be over on the Pup Butt but then again the original question is looking for "some shorter rock climbs".

 

There's a good day of cragging on the Camel btw...

[Don_Serl]

hey, it doesn't have to be clean and free from vegetation to be good climbing. i've climbed it a cpl times in summer (and once in winter). the route-finding is kinda challenging on site, but it's accurately marked in Fairley. keep thinking "right" once you get onto the main face above the 1st ledge...

and may I suggest a hammer and 3 or 4 pitons?

 

the "direct" face up the centre (from the tiny snowpatch snown in Fairley just down and left from the "2") has had a cpl of attempts, one of which (if memory serves me correctly) included one of the Haberl brothers attempting to turn a rather large block into a parapente.

 

as for the NE buttress, there is one especially delicious ropelength on which you belay in a tree, climb the entire ropelength in trees/bush (essentially without touching the ground), and belay again in a tree - it just doesn't get better! or, maybe, more unique...

 

enjoy, cheers, don

[Ponzini]

Tried the NE buttress on Sunday, but it was wet and slippery after Saturday's rain (go figure! ) and we bailed after 2 pitches. The route looks fun but has a fair bit of moss and dirt, so I'll wait for a few days of dry weather next time. We took a few pins (thanks to Don's suggestion) and were glad to have them.

[G-spotter]

A few days of dry weather, or a good freeze

[bstach]

Did you find my neutrino?

[Ponzini]

Nope, no neutrinos, all we saw was a rusty pin and a few tatty slings...

[gertlush]

How'd the N. Face look?

[Ponzini]

Pretty wet after only one day of rain. There was a fair bit of water running down the slabby lower third of the route, but the upper portion looked nice.

[G-spotter]

nice and green?

[Ponzini]

Here's a photo of the climbing that is typical of the NE buttress, you can see why it would be nicer in winter (ice instead of moss). Cam's skeptical look is because I just said I'd like to try one more pitch before bailing

 

Edited October 17, 2006 by Ponzini

[gertlush]

That look on his face is priceless.

[jordop]

what the hells wrong with that

[G-spotter]

That's the 5.3 fist crack section. Crux is somewhere not far above that IIRC.

[Ponzini]

What's an/the IIRC?

[G-spotter]

IMHO, IIRC is like LOL or RTFM. ^-^ You can check teh Internets FAQ

[Mr_Phil]

But whatever you do, don't Google "Dru fist crack"

[Dechristo]

That'd be on the S.Face of North Kitty.

[Ponzini]

I took your suggestion Drew, always wondered what IMHO meant. Plus I found out where the fuck PDX was! See you in Spray!