Beacon Rock; Fear of Flying

[Farrgo]

I climbed Fear of Flying last night to the old belay ledge, even with the rap station above Tooth Faerie. What happened to the desperate, two pin protected crack above there? Up to that point the route was clean and obviously well traveled but appears nobody has even attempted the upper section in years. Also as far as I could tell from my high point (about six feet above first pin), there is only one pin in this crack not two. What the deal?

[Farrgo]

Can anyone tell me what's going on here? Can I tick it off or should I bring my pruning sheers and broom next time?

[Blake]

PM Healyj or Heallyj

[billcoe]

Can anyone tell me what's going on here?

Sorry, I'm lucky if I can rememember my kids birthdays.

 

Can I tick it off or should I bring my pruning sheers and broom next time?

 

Yes, you should tick it off AND bring your pruning sheers and broom next time.

 

Sorry I'm such a dumbass. Joe can't read for a while so I'm keeping an eye on his questions for a couple of days. Might ask Jimmy O, it's his route. He's in perpetual cleaning mode anyway, last Sat he followed me on a bunch of pitches and I could often tell where he was even if he was out of sight by the tufts of grass that would puff out from the cliff every few feet.

 

Look for an elderly gentleman out at the rock who has cord-like muscles and thats most likely Jim. ...If the elderly gentleman has close cropped grey hair, that's Joseph, and if he looks like a prune that's me.

[ivan]

jim told me last month that fear of flying ends at that belay station jill's thrill runs through

[billcoe]

I'm not real good at this kind of finguring out locations, I might have been up there with Joseph couple of weeks ago? Maybe?

 

Maybe not though. He'd know.

[Farrgo]

I think the climb should end at the Jill's Thrill station or its needs a little revamping. I tried to push through the second desperate crack, got about five or six feet above the first pin, fell and decked on the ledge below. If there is another pin up there, I was no where near it. It would have to be very clean before I gave it another go. That being said, next chance I get I plan on lowering in and doing a bit of gardening.

[billcoe]

I think the climb should end at the Jill's Thrill station or its needs a little revamping. I tried to push through the second desperate crack, got about five or six feet above the first pin, fell and decked on the ledge below. If there is another pin up there, I was no where near it. It would have to be very clean before I gave it another go. That being said, next chance I get I plan on lowering in and doing a bit of gardening.

 

Ouch.

 

I must have been on something else I don't remember any pins.

 

Lets send Joseph up there with some crack-n-ups and see what happens.

[kevbone]

Dont ask Joe, he will admitt he does not know the history well, you should ask Jim. As far as I know the pins got smashed down my Ken. Know one know what happened to him. I guess he did not agree with them. I was like that when I started climbing there in Aug of 96.

[Mr_Phil]

Bolt it and be done.

[ols]

Yes...It continues above the ledge that the 1st Jill's belay is on, but is the next crack to the left (the one that you were trying to lead is correct).

It is the technical crux of FOF, and is seldom climbed above the ledge.

There may only be one pin there these days, after all... the pins were probably placed in the wild days of McGown.

Cheers!

[kevbone]

I called Jim last night and asked about the pins, he states its probably Bob Mcgown your going to get in touch with. Its his route.