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Posted

Monday I climbed several pitches of some route off to the right of Dreamer, Safe Sex et. al. before traversing way left back into Dreamer. Old 1/4"ers on the slabs, otherwise some intermittent loose flakes and vertical schwacking. Does anyone know what line this is? Does it continue up onto the right side of GGB?? I lost sight of the line around P4...

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Posted

Yeah, krazy lost in the supermarket! So hard to just pick and choose one route when you can climb three at once. But the climbing was kinda sexy out there on the right side...

Posted

There are no bolts on Botany 101, so it's not that. That shit is nasty anyways, digging out fingerlocks with your nut tool for pro and holds plus mud stemming and root pulling in rock shoes.

Posted
There are no bolts on Botany 101, so it's not that. That shit is nasty anyways, digging out fingerlocks with your nut tool for pro and holds plus mud stemming and root pulling in rock shoes.
Why just the other day I did a "dirt jam". That's where you dig out a pocket between rock and dirt on a ledge using your nut tool. Insert hand and pull.
Posted
Why just the other day I did a "dirt jam". That's where you dig out a pocket between rock and dirt on a ledge using your nut tool. Insert hand and pull.

 

<_____Insert "yo momma" joke here_____>

Posted

I was up there a while back and climbed up over some roof and then onto a steep slab with bolts..kinda between dreamer/safe sex and botany 101, but not all the way into the botany 101 gully thing.

not sure what route it was

Posted

Ross' route sounds like Safe Sex. It is about 5.9 where you step up over a roof, clip a bolt, and then climb left and up, passing one or two more bolts to get to some loose flakes. The route at that point has two variations, with an easier variant moving right after stepping up over the roof.

 

Further to the right of Safe Sex there is an old 5.11a slab route with a pitch and a half of bolts at about twelve foot intervals, Boomerang. This, however, is on a slab feature to the right of the Botany 101 dihedral. It is hard to imagine somebody traverssing from there onto Dreamer.

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