marcus Posted August 22, 2006 Posted August 22, 2006 Monday I climbed several pitches of some route off to the right of Dreamer, Safe Sex et. al. before traversing way left back into Dreamer. Old 1/4"ers on the slabs, otherwise some intermittent loose flakes and vertical schwacking. Does anyone know what line this is? Does it continue up onto the right side of GGB?? I lost sight of the line around P4... Quote
marcus Posted August 22, 2006 Author Posted August 22, 2006 Yeah, krazy lost in the supermarket! So hard to just pick and choose one route when you can climb three at once. But the climbing was kinda sexy out there on the right side... Quote
catbirdseat Posted August 22, 2006 Posted August 22, 2006 It could be Botany 101, 5.8+ or it could be The Fast Lane, 5.10c, A-3 or 5.11b/c R. Quote
layton Posted August 22, 2006 Posted August 22, 2006 M, did you do the "best of" Green Giant Buttress? You have a knack for doing all the routes in one climb Quote
MCash Posted August 22, 2006 Posted August 22, 2006 There are no bolts on Botany 101, so it's not that. That shit is nasty anyways, digging out fingerlocks with your nut tool for pro and holds plus mud stemming and root pulling in rock shoes. Quote
DirtyHarry Posted August 22, 2006 Posted August 22, 2006 digging out fingerlocks with your nut tool for pro and holds plus mud stemming and root pulling in rock shoes. Sounds like standard Cascades operating procedure. Quote
catbirdseat Posted August 22, 2006 Posted August 22, 2006 There are no bolts on Botany 101, so it's not that. That shit is nasty anyways, digging out fingerlocks with your nut tool for pro and holds plus mud stemming and root pulling in rock shoes. Why just the other day I did a "dirt jam". That's where you dig out a pocket between rock and dirt on a ledge using your nut tool. Insert hand and pull. Quote
Alpinfox Posted August 22, 2006 Posted August 22, 2006 Why just the other day I did a "dirt jam". That's where you dig out a pocket between rock and dirt on a ledge using your nut tool. Insert hand and pull. <_____Insert "yo momma" joke here_____> Quote
TeleRoss Posted August 22, 2006 Posted August 22, 2006 I was up there a while back and climbed up over some roof and then onto a steep slab with bolts..kinda between dreamer/safe sex and botany 101, but not all the way into the botany 101 gully thing. not sure what route it was Quote
mattp Posted August 23, 2006 Posted August 23, 2006 Ross' route sounds like Safe Sex. It is about 5.9 where you step up over a roof, clip a bolt, and then climb left and up, passing one or two more bolts to get to some loose flakes. The route at that point has two variations, with an easier variant moving right after stepping up over the roof. Further to the right of Safe Sex there is an old 5.11a slab route with a pitch and a half of bolts at about twelve foot intervals, Boomerang. This, however, is on a slab feature to the right of the Botany 101 dihedral. It is hard to imagine somebody traverssing from there onto Dreamer. Quote
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