Choada_Boy Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 which route was that on? I defiled the bolts at the top of the Gaper Wall, but the sideways bolts are on the Powerline Wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 My advice? Move beyond your little world, and truly understand the multiple levels of shittiness you have initiated and supported. Erik, critique the guidebook all that you want, but personally attacking Dallas Kloke because the Erie trail system is bad, or (in your opinion) he doesn't place bolts in the proper spots seems like a bit of a cheap shot. He's done more impressive climbs in the cascades and encouraging of new climbers to get-out-there than most of us could ever hope to do. He's not forcing his faith on anyone, he mentions it on the back cover of a book HE wrote and WE bought... not a very unusual thing for an author to do, although I guess rare among climbing guides. Down in PDX, Rocky Butte ( a crag FAR WORSE than Erie) which has an even worse guidebook (IMO) is being cleaned, climbed, explored, drytooled, and enjoyed by lots of cc.comers who took the initiative to make the best of their situation and see that even dirty dry-tooling in urban portland can be fun. Critiqueing is one thing, but just complaining and attacking someone personally is something else. P.S. I'll have a car in B-ham this fall so we can go to Squamish, Index, or somewhere else non-Erie in my ride! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mos_Chillin Posted August 22, 2006 Author Share Posted August 22, 2006 Sorry for not having done the "Tour de Crappy Crag", but I am psyched to do some stuff this fall witcha! Not the Levis-sponsored Gremlin, I hope? E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farrgo Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 Blake, I agree Rocky Butte is far worse in some areas. But, the bolting at the Butte is no where near Mt. Erie. The jist of it is that Mt. Erie could be a much better area if more care was taken placing bolts and perhaps (dare I say it) not placing bolts. Rocky Butte's main problem is the meth heads, not careless developing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mos_Chillin Posted August 22, 2006 Author Share Posted August 22, 2006 I like this guy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 could be a much better area if more care was taken placing bolts and perhaps (dare I say it) not placing bolts. ahh i think there is something like this in every climbing community. can any one say f-------e *gasp* nope can't say it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 Is that some Oregon thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mos_Chillin Posted August 22, 2006 Author Share Posted August 22, 2006 No, Organ thing. Close though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 Is that some Oregon thing? sure is... southern willamette valley thinger makes me sad so i have to self medicate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 No, Organ thing. Close though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 oh right flagpole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 oh right flagpole close but no cigar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 Flagburne? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 My complaints are that (1)Dallas insisted on an "old school" guidebook, hand typed and printed, and (2) the maps suck. The final product would have looked so much better with digital photos and Publisher software. In this day and age, printing such a thick book in the same style as a stapleback is just lame. Trails that are marked in the map are sometime full-on 4th class. Every time I go to a new area there, I give myself a full day to figure out the best way to reach the wall from the best parking area, I don't count on climbing much, and I don't go exploring with my dog - there have been just too many dead ends! Yes, this is a great improvement over the old guidebook, but if someone wanted to take the time to print a new version in the style of the Exit 32, 38, or Vantage books, I'd buy a copy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whidbey Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 I just want to say... Yes that the guidebook does leave something to desire but.............. It's a fun place to climb with kick ass views. Is it the greatest?... I don't think so but it's about 10 minutes from my place and would be so bummed if it didn't exist. You can kick the place all you want but really it is a place with some of the best views of the San Juans and such. I love the place. Life is what you make it and so is climbing. Cup half full here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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