Gary_Yngve Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 Climb: Mt. Stuart-North Ridge (upper w/ Gendarme) Date of Climb: 7/30/2006 Trip Report: Aaron Zabriskie and I C2Ced NR Stuart on Saturday. It goes without saying that we need to head back next year to do the Complete C2C. In general I found the photography to be hard. Often we were climbing in the shade or in between too strong of a constrast. The lieback photo had to be made B&W to get rid of a bluish cast that wouldn't go away nicely otherwise. Does the Gendarme get light in the afternoon or closer to the solstice? We were on it around 11:30 AM. Pictures (if a photo has me (red backpack) in it, then credit is to Aaron, with a little postprocessing by me): Gear Notes: shoulda had ankle gaiters to keep the Cascadian out of my tennies coulda had less food/water -- friggin' cold on the ridge, and we were faster than we anticipated Approach Notes: Stuart Glacier was frozen in the morning and required crampons with the tennies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 Nice work!! I did this a few years ago and found it to be a great, though long, day! How long did it take y'all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted August 3, 2006 Author Share Posted August 3, 2006 16 hours. 6 approach, 4 on route, 1 chill time on top, 5 descent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 What kind of camera would you recommend for this climb Gary? looks like fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 Very nice pics and TR. Looks like you turned up the saturation nicely on the photos; that last one of the South Side of Stuart is nice and green Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 Nice work. The 3rd photo is the same composition as the cover of Climbing a few months back, minus clouds and with the climber a little lower. If you didn't place gear on the great gendarme pitches (at least the first, judging by photos) then why bring a rope at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted August 3, 2006 Author Share Posted August 3, 2006 vw4ever: If you're curious, the original photos for that: olyclimber: you're funny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 We saw you guys on your way out Saturday evening. Looks pretty friggen rad. We encountered a lot of wind and rime on top on Sunday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted August 3, 2006 Author Share Posted August 3, 2006 Rad, I placed two points of intermediate protection on the 1st pitch. Above the 1st intermediate ledge, and above the 2nd intermediate ledge. They're extended on slings, so that's why you can't see them well. I didn't place a piece for the bottom lieback because it just didn't seem useful. By the time I felt ready to place it (I was far enough off the deck for it to be useful), the difficulties were already over. For the higher ones, I'd rather just climb through the lieback (risking a ledge fall) and have the pro easily placed at the ledge (protecting the big fall, which happened from broken hold or rockfall or act of God). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 Gary- Looks like you saved the Green from the more exposed photo, and then turned up the blues for the sky. Looks vivid; sorry if this is a layman's analytical view; I only have Infranview, and haven't gotten that far with experimenting yet (though I'm looking forward to what my new Fuji F30 will do) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 how's the "complete c2c" different? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 He means complete north ridge, rather than starting from the notch. Adds ~4 more 5.8-5.9 pitches, plus some more easy ones. I've only done the upper, but it seems that some folks think the complete is great and others think the upper is better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 They climbed the Upper North Ridge (top 1/3 of the ridge). The COMPLETE N Ridge starts at the toe of the ridge and continues all the way to the top, including the Upper part which they did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted August 4, 2006 Author Share Posted August 4, 2006 It's really more like the top 1/2 of the ridge? summit 9200 notch 8200 base of lower ridge 66-6800 based on map? Doesn't Beckey pitch it out as like only 10 or so, whereas he weasels 18 out of the upper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJScott Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 I have only climbed the ridge from the notch...and after climbing it I thought it was total B.S! I enjoy climbing asthetic lines, and the n. ridge is one hell of a line...but why would anyone want to start at that notch and ruin such a rad ridge. I was dissapointed seeing how far up the ridge the notch was. Really felt like i half assed it...serious unfinished business up there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 sounds like top 2/5 to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 You say potayto, and I say potahto You say tomayto, I say tomahto potayto, potahto tomayto, tomahto Let's call the whole thing off! ... (and don't forget GWB says tomatoe!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.