[TR] Mt Buckner- N face 6/24/2006

[genepires]

Climb: Mt Buckner-N face

 

Date of Climb: 6/24/2006

 

Trip Report:

So here is a TR from a trip that Alex K, Scott and I did this last weekend. Sorry about no photos, but my partners had the technology. Maybe later, scott will drop some photos in here.

 

We got a late start to the trip on friday cause Alex is a decent man and had to entertain friends who flew into town. So we pulled into marblemount ranger station around 11pm and couldn't find a self register permit. Bah with permits! We crash out at BB TH along with 5 other people whom we wake up. Three guys are off to boston peak and the other two are in stealth mode and keep their destination a secret.

 

Saturday:

Morning comes way to early as Alex is cracking the whip on us to get up. We are off on the trail around 5am, an hour after the other groups. A pretty steady clip gets us to BB in 2 hours and Alex is not ready for a break. The whipping starts again as he marches uphill. The sharkfin col in another hour. A quick half rope rappel onto the glacier and we are off to buckner, with Alex in the lead again. whipping continues and becomes the theme for the day. Another couple of hours of constant rightward traversing and we are at the bottom of Buckner.

 

So what is it with our north faces? How come they all seem to get sun all day long? (maude seems the same way) Where are the constantly shadowed and frigid north faces that spring fear? Maybe they need to be steeper. The N face has been in the sun since sunrise and the snow is sloppy. Nice slough grooves in the face.

 

We unrope and start to kick buckets up the left side of the face. Alex is finally getting worn down so we trade off for a little till he recharges and attacks the slope again. We manage to find one small ice blob for a couple sticks but the route went mostly as shin to knee deep snow. We manage to pull over the top around 3:30pm and crash out on the summit. There are very few entries in the summit register, something like 5 a year. strange for a "select route".

 

So descend or bivy? Even though we have plenty of time to descend, we decide to bivy on the summit. I am so tired by this point so I like the idea of hanging out. A nice platform was carved out of a wind scoop and some good lounging is had. Later on in the year, I don't think there would be a good bivy spot up there.

 

Scott's snoring doesn't wake either Alex or me up.

 

Sunday:

We pack it all up and head down into horshoe basin in great plunge stepping snow, still a little soft from the high reezing levels. But the problem is that now we have to traverse rightwards more and then hike UP again to get to sahale arm. When will it all end? Eventually, we got to the upper part of sahale arm, then down to some meadowed part of the arm, where a strangly confident marmot gets within a foot of Scott. The marmot wants his apple. Or maybe his blood. It took all three of us to chase the little bastard back into his hole. The rest of the hike is uneventful except for being busted by a park ranger for not having a camping permit. He lets us off this time. 34 switchbacks down the cascade pass trail. Icecream, burgers and asleap at home. Oh yeah, it was a good one.

 

Looking back at the trip, I really liked to way we did it. Carrying minimum gear and sleeping were ever is convienent or possible. Doing loops to see new terrain instead of returning the climbing route. Getting a early start and getting mellow in the late afternoon instead of busting ass all day. This is a route that should see more traffic as it is possible by a majority of climbers with alpine interest. It is not such a "hardman route" but rather lots of alpine travel and a endurance burn. Heck, if I can do it two months after a climbing accident that broke my lower vert and forearm, then why couldn't most people?

 

Gear Notes:

2 tools, crampons, glacier travel gear.

 

Approach Notes:

Road is open. trail is pretty much snow free to boston basin camp, then all snow till sahale arm.

[Otto]

Nice work, it must have been great on the summit that night. Thanks for the cool TR.

[Figger_Eight]

Right on Gene - thanks for the TR. Good to see you're back in the mountains after the accident

[Chad_A]

Very nice TR; sounds like Alex is kicking ass these days!

 

I wonder if the summit register is somewhat hidden, or maybe buried in snow relatively late; seems funny that it doesn't see many signatures. Then again, lots of people don't feel the need to sign them I suppose...

 

 

Good job, and thanks for the posting

[Weekend_Climberz]

Johannesberg:

 

Gene coming up Boston Basin:

 

Gene nearing Sharkfin Col:

 

Looking Down Sharkfin Col:

 

Starting out on Boston Glacier with NR Forbidden in the distance:

 

Traversing Boston Glacier with the route marked ahead:

 

The splendor:

 

Gene at the bottom of the NF:

 

Smile Gene:

 

Panorama:

click for bigger picture

 

Sunrise:

 

Oh, magnificent sunrise (smile Alex):

 

Oy, the descent:

 

The final slog:

[magellan]

Heck, if I can do it two months after a climbing accident that broke my lower vert and forearm, then why couldn't most people?

 

Cause not everyone is a hardman like you two! Nice trip!

[genepires]

Not two hardman, but just three normal guys not smart enough to realize how much traversing and walking we were getting into.

[Weekend_Climberz]

My right leg is like three inches bigger around than my left now. Kind of weird to walk, and the chafing sucks real bad.

[Tom_Sjolseth]

Right on! Nice TR, Gene. That route is CLASSSIC.