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Posted

Who's done it this early in the year? I would imagine that the icy traverse would be easier this time of year. What about the rock? Is there anything on there really hard enough to worry about with possible lingering snow.

 

Also, anybody here done the thing in the opposite direction - from forbidden to torment. Does the natural ridge flow make this less pleasant?

 

thanks,

-josh

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Posted

I think it would go now. Rock seems to be pretty dry. The rock on Torment and near torment is bad but it gets better going toward Forbidden. I think this makes it more pleasant to get better rock as you progress, intsead of the inverse. Plus finishing on Forbidden is better than finishing on Torment.

Posted

june 2006 future-boy? shit - why fuc w/ the bullshit roc on torment josh? just cruise the snow to the notch right of the summit - you'll not be missing much

Posted

I was up there a couple weeks ago. 6.10 I believe. it looked like this:

 

3720IMG_0626_2_.JPG

 

the rock was fine n dry. snow was easy and didn't require crampons. quite a schrund to contend with where one raps onto the first glacier.

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