Hood in late August

[MountainGirl_Boston]

We are thinking of climbing Hood in late August (Aug 23-28). Would appreciate anyone who had experience with that time frame please advise the trail condition? what's major hazard? would roping up be necessary?

 

We are thinking of combining this climbing with the Hood2Coast relay race, but not sure how much energy this climb would require? would it be realistic to climb it right before the race or after?

 

We are just normal runners/climbers that is capable of running a marathon and hiked around in New England white mountains in winter.

 

Any advice is highly appreciated!

[Couloir]

MGB: You PM'd me, but I wasn't able to reply. Turn your PMs on!

 

There are many that can answer this, but here goes. Hood gets climbed in late August all the time. BUT, it's an ugly and relatively unsafe climb. Lots of rockfall, and potentially bomber steep ice through the Chute (Pearly Gates--but they are anything but that in August--loose rock is more like it.).

 

Definitely a hardman thing to do combining it with the H2C relay. So, if you go, bring a helmet, climb fast, and be VERY aware of what's happening above you. May need a second tool for the crux in the Chute. Depends on your comfort level. I've climbed it year round, and this is approaching about the worst time you could do it. That said, good luck. Have fun!

[ivan]

to my mind, in august it's cooler to circumnavigate the mountain on the timberline trail (40 miles) then to try climbing the craptacular and remarkably fat-guy ugly south side route - if you desperately wanna climb the mountain then do the sunshine route on the north side (glacier travel required though)

[rbw1966]

I agree with Ivan. Doing that slog up the southside in August is not very aesthetic. Do the Sunshine. If you have ever done the H2C before you know what you are up against--I would NOT do this climb before the relay. And chances are, you won't feel mucch like doing it after the relay either.

[nordicpunk]

Before I even read the other posts I was thinking the exact same thing as them. I did the the North face at the end of Aug last year and it was excellent! the sunshine route is straight foward and fun- it may be icy but is not very steep. Also BE SURE TO GET UP TO THE TOP EARLY. August storms roll in quick at about 11-12. If you are in good shape, then you could do both H2C and Hood. I disagree about the order that the others recomend however. I would do the climb first. rbw1966 is definitely right in that you may not feel like climbing a mountain after H2C, but you can easily do the H2C after climbing hood. IF YOU ARE IN GOOD RUNNING SHAPE- the H2C is easy. you only have to do 4-6 miles at a time. great plan though- I think you should go for it!

[Maestro]

OK, I am not going to make any recommendations one way or the other, but I have climbed the southside route (hogback) solo in late August and I will just report what it was like...

 

Bring crampons and ice ax as the snow is very hard even when it is not icy. The climb goes OK up to Crater Rock, where you lose the snow temporarily and have to traverse really loose crappy scree for a bit until you get on the hogback.

 

At the upper end of the hogback, the bergschrund is a wide open gaping maw at that time of year and quite intimidating to climb on steep snow above. You can't cross it: some go left and some go right. I traversed around it to the left, which looked to me to be more manageable.

 

The snow above the 'schrund was hard and deeply suncupped, but not particularly icy. What it was was littered with hundreds of rocks of all sizes. That tells you something very significant. Get through there fast and watch for falling bombs. It is also very steep with that big mouth below you wide open to gobble you down, but the suncups somewhat mitigated that when I was there.

 

At the upper end of the pearly gates--grimy gates at that time of year--you are back on nasty scree to the summit.

 

Start early and get down early. It is a crapshoot, not safe, but doable. I met another solo climber coming down as I was going up. He had gone up Cooper Spur (!) and was coming down hogback.

 

August is warm, even on top of Mt. Hood. I summited in a tee shirt. The warmer it gets, the more rocks will come down in that chute above the bergschrund. Going down is particularly dangerous because they are coming at you from behind.

 

Good luck!

[jaee]

Illumination rock via S. Chamber is worth doing on Hood in the summer. Low 5th, some decent rock, some crappy rock.

[MtnBoy]

Hello and salutations,

 

I would strongly consider not even doing Hood in August. As the preceeding comments have made quite clear there is real objective hazard in climbing at that time of year, and unless you are practiced in glacier travel or dodging scree you might not find it enjoyable.

 

A great alternative would to do more of a walk-up climb where you would get the same sumit experience without the extra hazard and gear that otherwise would be necessary. I would suggest the south side of Mt. Adams or the South Sister, both of which are quite accessible and would not require rope nor protection. Both of the trailheads are app. 3 to 4 hours from portland (vs. 1.5hr for hood)and both climbs are asthetically beautiful.

 

My 2 cents

[Roy]

Hello and salutations,

 

I would strongly consider not even doing Hood in August. As the preceeding comments have made quite clear there is real objective hazard in climbing at that time of year, and unless you are practiced in glacier travel or dodging scree you might not find it enjoyable.

 

]where you would get the sameA great alternative would to do more of a walk-up climb sumit experience without the extra hazard and gear that otherwise would be necessary. I would suggest the south side of Mt. Adams or the South Sister, both of which are quite accessible and would not require rope nor protection. Both of the trailheads are app. 3 to 4 hours from portland (vs. 1.5hr for hood)and both climbs are asthetically beautiful.]

 

My 2 cents

 

If you do hood make sure you have a brain bucket!