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[TR] Mount Rainier- Fuhrer Finger 5/13-14/2006


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Climb: Mount Rainier-Fuhrer Finger


Date of Climb: 5/13-14/2006


Trip Report:

I was on Mount Hunter in Alaska for freezing my ass for 10 days. I came back last Wednesday, and checked the weather in Seattle. It forecasted like summer. I wanted to climb Liberty Ridge, but none of my partners were interested. So I decided going solo on Fuhrer finger since I had not done this route.

I started Paradise at 10am Saturday, took a moraine trail. I got on Nasqually GI about 6000ft. Nasqually GI was covered with a lot of snow, so it was so easy to travel. It was not like later in summer like you walk on black ice and dirt.

The Fan was also covered with a lot of snow,not lose scree. Sweet! So it was easy travel to the camp about 9,200ft by the big rock. I was completely alone. No hikers, climbers, and not even birds. I ate leftover from Alaska trip Mash potato with Top ramen. It was full moon with a bit breezy, but warm night. I got up 11pm, and packed up, and started hiking about 1145pm. It was not problem crossing Wilson GI, no huge crevasses yet, but I crossed on old avalanche debris.

I got on the Finger, and realized I did not see any previous foot steps. I though "Shit! I have to kick steps." The snow was firm and was easy going up. Just before the Futhrer Thumb meets the finger, the slope was going up to 45 degrees. I wished I had a second ice tool for more security, but I didn't. So I was careful not to fall on that section. The Finger broadens up 11,300ft. It was super windy. The guide book said Climb up to the crest of the Wilson Headwall 13,300ft. In order to do that I had to go away from the summit crater a bit. So I peeked at my right Nasqually GI. It looked not so bad crossing crevasse. So I gambled going short cut crossing on Nasqually GI about 12,200ft. I crossed a wimpy narrow snow bridge hoping I don't fall. Thank God. I was light weight. If I was 200lb with 50lb backpack on, I would not dare trying to cross that bridge. The wind was blowing so hard. The slope to the summit was showing blue ice. I got to the summit crater about 7am. I saw my friend who climbed Gib ledges. I went to the true summit and write my name on the register. And I went down on DC route. The DC was well wanded and fixed for a few sections. Thank you for RMI guides. The winds stopped and got hot. I was annoyed with my crampons balling up with snow on the way to the Muir.

It was nice to play around my backyard with reasonably warm weather.



Gear Notes:

Mountaineering Axe

Ski Pole which I lost it on DC


Approach Notes:

Great Shape

Edited by Pochi
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