[TR] Banks Lake: Orange Walls- Muddy Waters 4/7/2006

[bigbro]

Climb: Banks Lake: Orange Walls-Muddy Waters

 

Date of Climb: 4/7/2006

 

Trip Report:

Went to the peninsula area on friday, good weather, no snakes, and lots of ticks. We attempted to drive out there however our efforts were halted by a nasting 100ft mud bog. We hiked from here. We climbed Muddy Waters, which is probably worth the effort if you're in the area. the first two pitches have some decomposing granite, but are realatively cruizer and well protected. The last two pitches are on fairly good rock and fun. We spent most of our time exploring the area so this was the only route we did.

 

Gear Notes:

Quickdraws are all that are need for this route. Quick links/chains/webbing are recommended as the rap anchors are not well equiped. Also a 70m rope is recommended to link the raps. A 60m requires nasty, exposed down-climbing.

 

Approach Notes:

The approach is a pain in the ass if done by land. A boat is highly recommended. The dirt road may be better in the fall if the water dries up but right now it is not an option.

[Off_White]

You're talking about the penninsula near the highway? With Whitelaw's old waterfront slab routes and that cool short steep orange wall?

[chris]

Yeah, where is this - it sounds interesting. Any references?

[thelawgoddess]

shit; no pics?

[mattp]

Here's one that's not bad.

[TeleRoss]

cool,but why the rope, if you botch it you just backflop into the water.

Edited April 10, 2006 by TeleRoss

[DirtyHarry]

Any good summertime deep water soloing in those parts?

[thelawgoddess]

Here's one that's not bad.

 

that's what i'm talking about! that's f'ing sweet!

[bigbro]

The route is on the peninsula on the west side of Banks Lake slightly north of Steamboat Rock. There are a # of route out there. For Info, check out "Rock Climbs of Central Washington" by Rick La Belle. It finally came out last week. Mountain Gear is the publisher so I assume it has many copies. Also, a book I believe is called Weekend Rock, by ???? mentions one or two routes in the area. La Belle's guide is probably the most comprehensive. Sorry no pics. The camera was unused, just like all the other 60lb of shit we hauled out there.

[mattp]

I'll be looking for that LaBelle book. The Weekend Rock book is by David Whitelaw, the guy who took the photo shown here and who, I think, FA'd the route shown. Bassomatic. 5.9.

[Bug]

Canoes are aid.