Pro racking tips?

[octavius]

I'm new to trad leading, and am looking for people's tips on racking their gear. I've got one of those Metolius shoulder racks and have a collection of gear (BD cams, DMM nuts, rockcentrics) and slings. The main issue I'm fighting is how much harder climbing is with all this crap swinging all over the place as I make moves. I have the shoulder rack as tight as it can be while still fitting over my head. The main culprit seems to be the cams getting caught under small stuff (rocks, holds, etc) as I move up, and the rack obstructing my view. One of my instructors advocated putting the entire rack just on the waist harness, but not sure that fits my style. What do you all do?

Thanks,

Octavius

[archenemy]

The first thing I do is to try and not bring what I probably won't need with me. Then, I constantly push all the gear I do end up carrying around to rest on my back. My harness is a Cadillac, so I use the large upper loops as a "stop" to hold the gear hanging from my sling in place. Some days my efforts work better than other days.

 

This problem gets better, but your gear always finds a way to set itself now and then. This is part of what makes trad climbing "fun".

[Wallstein]

I always rack on my harness. If my rack doesn't fit on my harness I am carrying to much gear. I always found the same problem as you when I use a shoulder sling. I could never see my feet and I was constantly throwing the rack behind me. total pain. Many people will say its nicer to have a shoulder sling for multi pitch climbing due to the ease of switching leads. I generally don't end up with much gear at the belays, If i do I have plenty of time to rack it on a sling if my partner prefers that. Many people will also say its nice to use a shoulder sling on chimneys and wide cracks, this is true but in all reality rarely an issue. It takes me less than 2 minutes to re-rack onto a sling for pitches that require it.

[archenemy]

Good suggestion.

 

Another thing I forgot to mention is that I got one of those slings that has a secondary sling thingy so that the second side gets clipped into the front. I also hang gear on that side (my left side) and that has made a big difference. It evens out the weight and lessens the swingability. My description sux, but I think you probably get what I mean...

[octavius]

Thanks for the tips so far. I'll probably try getting more onto my waist harness, and making use of the gear loop on the extra back sling on the shoulder harness. I'm sure part of the problem is that I'm new enough to this that I'm carrying more than I need on the routes, but for me its part of learning what I use/need and what I don't.

Octavius

[scheissami]

You might check out a gear sling like the BD Zodiac. It's technically a "big wall" sling, but I find that it's comfy and doesn't swing around due to the backpack style shoulder straps.

[archenemy]

That is a beefy sling to be sure. Not so good with boobs though; it really compresses them. But I guess this is for "Octavius" not "Octavia" so no problem there.

[DirtyHarry]

Its just preference. Wallstein is height-challenged, so a shoulder sling probably hangs below his feet and trips him up. On the other hand, he probably climbs harder than anyone in the world so you can't argue with his suggestion.

I personally prefer a shoulder sling on one side, then I rack draws and slings on the other side on my harness. Gear sling can can get in the way, but you'll get used to it.

[Wallstein]

Why get use to the problem when you can just fix it.

[DirtyHarry]

Whatever

 

Shoulder slings look way cooler.

[archenemy]

by getting taller?

[Wallstein]

Pete you know, to be bitchn' ya have to look bitchn'

 

no need to get taller, just smarter. Last time I climbed El cap I did't bring a gear sling, carried everything on my harness.

[G-spotter]

You know what, why don't you rack your gear on your harness, and your draws on a shoulder sling? That way you can grab a draw with either hand when clipping pro and when you want to place gear you know where it is on your harness and with which hand to go for it. That's what I do and it works way better than either "everything on the harness" or "gear on the sling and draws on the harness".

[archenemy]

that is a good fucking idea. I am going to try that this afternoon. I'll look stupid in my wall gear on the little local stone, but I am used to looking lame.

I have never noticed anyone organize their gear this way--do many people use this suggestion? Smart!

[DirtyHarry]

You know what, why don't you rack your gear on your harness, and your draws on a shoulder sling?

 

That's what I do mountain / ice climbing, more or less. I just don't like having a whole lot of weight and gear on my hips. Makes my harness fall off.

[G-spotter]

Is that because your waist is wider than your ass?

[DirtyHarry]

Stop thinking about my ass, Dru.

[chucK]

Dru's way may be pretty good. Might be worth a try.

 

Possible problems I forsee though:

 

If you're carrying a whole bunch of gear it might be pretty tough to fit it on a couple of gear loops.

 

You might not be able to get at a specific piece of gear if you can't free up the correct hand (probably won't happen very often).

 

 

I usually put the draws on the rear gear loops. You can reach those with either hand, and there's no need to see the draws. A big rack swinging around on the sling is annoying, so I put the biggest couple of cams on my harness.

 

If I'm going light enough to be able to fit all the gear on two loops (the one's I can see) comfortably, then I'll definitely ditch the gear sling. That doesn't seem to happen often though. Guess I like to sew it up!

 

 

Two climb-dependent rules:

1. Chimney's and offwidths: try to avoid racking on your harness, and definitely don't rack anything on back loops.

 

2. Slabs: everything on harness. Sling will hang down exactly in the way of seeing where your feet go, which is crucial on a slab. Plus, you usually don't need a very big rack on slab.

 

 

Another rack recommendation

[TrogdortheBurninator]

I have tried Dru's approach on some occasions and like it, although I am not as used to it as I am racking gear on the sling.

 

FWIW - I usually rack bigger cams on my harness (#3 BD and larger), draws on my harness, and smaller cams on the sling. I also find that I prefer the way regular gear slings (I have BD) carry vs the metolious loopy slings.

 

To wallstein: while we all aspire to carry less gear, I am not sure that this is the best advice for a new leader. New leaders should be sewing up their climbs and trying to minimize the need for tricky placements because they didn't bring the proper gear.

[archenemy]

I've noticed that when I've tried to carry large cams on my loops, I get bruised so badly I can't hardly function the next day. Maybe I am just a squishy wimp, but it hurts. And being a member of the midget family, I get bruised right above and behind the knees.

 

Nice butt shot though Chucky!

[G-spotter]

Maybe this thread will go to 40 or 50 pages like the rc.n00b anchor thread.

 

It's not rocket science! Just put your gear on your harness. If it's Classic Crack you can fit everything on a harness but for most routes you will run out of gear loops so you put some draws on a gear sling. Or a "draw sling" in this case.

 

If you're paying attention you will know on which side to rack which gear. Like if you are going to climb Caboose you should put most of the gear you plan on placing on your left gear loops cause your right side will be leaning against of the wall most of the time.

[RuMR]

I've noticed that when I've tried to carry large cams on my loops, I get bruised so badly I can't hardly function the next day. Maybe I am just a squishy wimp, but it hurts. And being a member of the midget family, I get bruised right above and behind the knees.

 

Nice butt shot though Chucky!

 

yeah, i'll bet you get bruising on the knees!

[archenemy]

Don't start with me.

[cdomsch]

I like to put my draws and small stoppers/hexes on my harness, and carry my cams and large stoppers/hexes on a gear sling. Definately like the metolius sling with the 4 gear loops. Also, I choose to put small cams near the front and large cams and stoppers at the back. Works for me, but I too like to sew things up and carry too much gear.

[archenemy]

I've noticed that when I've tried to carry large cams on my loops, I get bruised so badly I can't hardly function the next day. Maybe I am just a squishy wimp, but it hurts. And being a member of the midget family, I get bruised right above and behind the knees.

 

Nice butt shot though Chucky!

 

yeah, i'll bet you get bruising on the knees!

Actually, I said above the knees. Are you too fucking short to reach your monitor as well as anything above the knee?

 

Ah shit, now you've gone and done it...