Blake Posted March 11, 2006 Share Posted March 11, 2006 I'm not trying to say that grades are the important part about climbing, but why is there so much dispute in determining what Aussie/NZ grade = what North American grade = European, etc. I guess its all subjective and whatnot, but for example I've seen charts listing Aussie '20' as everything from 5.10b to 5.11a. seems kinda strange... http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/GradeConversion.htm http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/rankingguide.php http://www.catsclimbingshop.com/ctable.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Trippett Posted March 12, 2006 Share Posted March 12, 2006 chockstone suggests E5=.13a ....seems a bit high. everything else looks ok. hows NZ Blake? Meet any hot elf chicks? How are you finding kiwi climbing grades? from Rockfax.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted March 12, 2006 Author Share Posted March 12, 2006 This is from the AAC NZ is really nice, going to try Mt. Aspiring soon (I hope) I've put a few pics up in the 'everywhere else' forum. I honestly haven't lead enough 5.10 routes in the states to know how accurate teh grades are, but I'm leading 20 Aussie. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted March 12, 2006 Share Posted March 12, 2006 crotch shottage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted March 12, 2006 Share Posted March 12, 2006 I honestly haven't lead enough 5.10 routes in the states to know how accurate teh grades are, but I'm leading 20 Aussie. maybe it's the lembas bread? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted March 13, 2006 Author Share Posted March 13, 2006 I honestly haven't lead enough 5.10 routes in the states to know how accurate teh grades are, but I'm leading 20 Aussie. maybe it's the lembas bread? I did find this one little ring in my cracker jack box on the flight over. It's precious..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted March 13, 2006 Share Posted March 13, 2006 you're sure it wasn't orginally in your neighbor's box and you just shivved 'em for it? it was your b-day after all... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted March 13, 2006 Share Posted March 13, 2006 20 = 10b or 10c depending what area you climb at. some areas 20 will be 10b and 21 will be 10+, other areas 20 will be friggin tough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted March 13, 2006 Author Share Posted March 13, 2006 20 = 10b or 10c depending what area you climb at. some areas 20 will be 10b and 21 will be 10+, other areas 20 will be friggin tough. Drew, thanks for clearing things all up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted March 13, 2006 Share Posted March 13, 2006 well, say you were a kiwi and came to washington and were trying to figure out how the YDS converts to Ewbank grades. So you climb two routes rated "10a", which you think should both be 19's after conversion. But one of them is Angel Crack which feels more like a 20 to you and the other one is a 10-bolt, 50 foot route at Exit 38 that feels more like a 17 or 18 than a 19. So you'd be just as confused. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted March 13, 2006 Author Share Posted March 13, 2006 wasn't angel crack originally a 5.7? Isn't there some famous photo of Fred climbing it in boots? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul_detrick Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 Back before all those boots wore it smooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mos_Chillin Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 regionalcentrism. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpine_Tom Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 well, say you were a kiwi and came to washington and were trying to figure out how the YDS converts to Ewbank grades. So you climb two routes rated "10a", which you think should both be 19's after conversion. But one of them is Angel Crack which feels more like a 20 to you and the other one is a 10-bolt, 50 foot route at Exit 38 that feels more like a 17 or 18 than a 19. So you'd be just as confused. So, then, what's the point of climbing ANYTHING if you can't convert the grades accurately? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrythellama Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 i think we need to check with mosschillen to see if theis will hold up to david grahams standards no matter what the grade is. and i am gonna say d+ for this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 well, say you were a kiwi and came to washington and were trying to figure out how the YDS converts to Ewbank grades. So you climb two routes rated "10a", which you think should both be 19's after conversion. But one of them is Angel Crack which feels more like a 20 to you and the other one is a 10-bolt, 50 foot route at Exit 38 that feels more like a 17 or 18 than a 19. So you'd be just as confused. So, then, what's the point of climbing ANYTHING if you can't convert the grades accurately? um maybe because climbing is fun and grades are for wankers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 So, then, what's the point of climbing ANYTHING if you can't convert the grades accurately? No shit - it interferes with proper chestbeating. Then there are the Kiwi Alpinists in quite the quandary with the Modified Mt. Cook system... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted March 14, 2006 Author Share Posted March 14, 2006 I was really just hoping for the kiwi convesion of 5.9+ A2- because that's pretty much been the rating of every route i've seen down here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrythellama Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 .9+ a2 = really hard, conditions dependent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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