[TR] South Brother- South Face 2/19/2006

[sambataro]

Climb: South Brother-South Face

 

Date of Climb: 2/19/2006

 

Trip Report:

I took a two day trip up to the Brothers this weekend, it doesn't seem like the Olympics get many winter ascents, but this weekend was perfect for the occasion. I saw numerous lines of water ice along the approach up the E fork of Lena Creek, although it looked a little rotten. The gully system up the south face was solid snow/ice, great for going up, but had to downclimb just as carefully from the summit.

 

An amazing trip! I have a lot of respect for the Olympics. After staring out my downtown office window at the Brothers the last few weeks of good weather, it was time to look down on Seattle instead. Check out more details and photos at:

 

 

http://isc.astro.cornell.edu/~don/pictures/joe_climbing

 

PS I also put up photos of the N Face of Chair from the weekend previous

 

Gear Notes:

-axe and crampons

-another tool and a partner would have been nice

 

Approach Notes:

-cold temps made all the snow solid on the approach, no need for snowshoes

[magellan]

Great trip, and nice albums. It's great how your mom sends you helpful comments like 'don't climb solo!'

[olyclimber]

nice pictures. would have been a good weekend to do the Brothers Traverse.

[skyhigh]

Very nice. Thanks for sharing. The mom thing was funny. Right where you were mentioning the falling ice. Good timing Mom!

[mneagle]

Was this the route you did? I did it several years ago in cold but thin conditions and submitted it as a new ascent to the new Olympics Guide. I remember a short rock section midway up with a bulge that was a little scary to get over. I also remember thinking that I really didn't want to downclimb it. I went up after work and did most of the route by headlamp (hence the name). I bivied on the ridge and continued on to the summit the next day. Great climb.

 

For reference, from the diamond shaped snowfield at the base of the route you just make a right turn and enter the standard couloir route for the South Brothers.

 

[DPS]

Hello Joe,

 

Remember me from NE Buttress of Chair Peak earlier this winter?

 

Was that Einar Osterhaug that you did Chair Peak with? He is a friend of mine.

 

Dan Smith

Edited February 24, 2006 by danielpatricksmith

[Weekend_Climberz]

Sweet trip. I look at those mountains all day at work, depressed that wondering why I don't at least make a trip or two over there a year. So much to do!!

[slothrop]

This must be the Joe and Einar who caught up to us on the NF of Chair a couple weekends ago. We were a group of three, one of us named Dan. Einar asked whether our Dan was you, Dan

[sambataro]

don't check this too often, anyways, what are moms for--i should just stop emailing her the link to my photos, but its kinda entertaining.

 

as for the route mneagle, i summited via gulleys heading south directly beneath the summit for the most part, whether its the standard summer south face route, im not sure. Did you have to traverse NW along the ridge from midnight gulley to reach the summit?

 

Here is that photo I took from the snow-filled meadow:

After ascending the gulley on the west, a rock band and narrow gulley continued straight up but I exited east 50 m to gain a wider gulley. At the start of this gulley, a gendarme was on the right. I ascended south and meandered to the summit. Hope thats clear.

 

and, hey dan and dan

 

cheers