Leavenworth

[Sleeveless]

Any beta on current rock road conditions?

Tumwater, Castle, Icicle, Snow Creek?

[rayborbon]

It's all in.

[Ade]

Is the road upto the Stuart Lake trailhead drivable and open (I know they're closing it later in the summer).

[erik]

quote:

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Originally posted by Ade:

Is the road upto the Stuart Lake trailhead drivable and open (I know they're closing it later in the summer).

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the deforest service will not open the road until all the snow melts off of it and dries out...this road has slope stability issues.....

 

i imagine there will be a only a short window for poeople who are unwilliing to hike the road to access thar area this year....

 

have fun and be safe and refuse the deforrest service

[rayborbon]

Ade Miller Time,

 

I dont think it will be open. I think it will be walkable if you head to the BC just bring snowshoes.

[Jarred_Jackman]

rayborbon, is there still snow on the descent from snow creek.

 

thanks forthe poignant beta.

[chris_w]

I was at Bridge creek campground and it looked like the gate was closed at the first bridge on 8 mile road.

[Dru]

So did Leavenworth survive the onslaught of 90 mtneers raping the rock?

[chris_w]

Besides the mountaineers there was a group of 15 mother\daughters from passages northwest, a group of 25 from the BoAlps class, a group of 40+ from something expeditions (can't remember name) around clamshell. I saw them carrying at least 2 big coolers (3-4 feet long) up the trail. Those were only the groups that I noticed, I'm sure there were more. And I think we played nice with the other groups\climbers. A climbing party asked to climb on Mountaineers dome and we moved our ropes to let them by. We let Passages northwest use half of barney's rubble when they showed up, and we moved our setups to help accommodate the BoAlps.

 

Dru: We cleaned off all the moss and loose pieces so you can come down and on-sight all those 5.4's we were on

[Dwayner]

Bro. Chris W. said:

 

"We let Passages northwest use half of barney's rubble when they showed up, and we moved our setups to help accommodate the BoAlps."

 

Did you see that? "We let..."

 

Thank you, sir, may I have another?

Doggone Mounties! Exactly the attitude!

 

- Dwayner

 

Nothing personal, Chris W. I understand that it's difficult to leave the cult.

[chris_w]

read on... clicked wrong button

 

[ 04-22-2002, 11:06 AM: Message edited by: chris_w ]

[rayborbon]

There were mobs at Castle Rock.

 

I went to Trundle Dome instead and climbed at Midnight as well.

 

There appears to be snow still on the descent for Snow Creek Wall. However I am just Gaper looking from the parking lot speculating.

[chucK]

[reposted: originially misplaced in BC forum]

 

We were at Doody Dome on Saturday and the weather was awesome! Cool and often sunny.

 

We climbed up Bombs Away and then climbed Neatness at Noon by lowering down. Can anybody tell me how to get to the base of Neatness at Noon from below? Can you scramble up there from the top of Jazzy Document (cool sporto pitch)?

 

I highly recommend 300 Motivational Tapes/Urban Nomads and Off Duty too .

 

Gaper Ray, Is the Midnight Rock falcon closure officially over (i.e. as far as the rangers are concerned?).

[chris_w]

quote:

---

Originally posted by chris_w:

quote:

---

Originally posted by Dwayner:

Bro. Chris W. said:

 

"

We let

Passages northwest use half of barney's rubble when they showed up, and we moved our setups to help accommodate the BoAlps."

 

Did you see that?

"We let..."

 

Thank you, sir, may I have another?

Doggone Mounties! Exactly the attitude!

 

- Dwayner

 

Nothing personal, Chris W. I understand that it's difficult to leave the cult.

---

---

Brother Dwayer... Bad choice of words (We let) on my post. It should read something like I worked it out with Passages northwest so that we were both happy with the routes and we could accomplish what what we intended to do.

 

Opening a can of worms.....

Is it not the rule of thumb that whoever gets to a route first has the route till they are done with it? I think that applies to small parties but not large ones. Nobody owns the rock\routes. One of my goals was to work with other climbers at the locations we were at and work something out to make everyone as happy as possible. And I think I did that this weekend.

[kevin]

despite the massive hoards of people wandering around by the road, I spent sat on Careno crag and sunday at bathtub dome and saw a total of three other parties climbing near us the entire weekend. Sunday was sure windy up there at bathtub. I had never been there before, but the climbing was great and the views of dragontail and colchuck peaks were phenomenal.

[Climzalot]

Approached to the base of the Stuart Glacier Couloir this weekend and bailed for various reasons. If you are thinking of heading up there and want beta let me know.

 

cgentzel@aai.cc

[chucK]

I got a few minutes to kill, so here's a quick crag report from this weekend.

 

Crag Report: Saturday at Duty Dome

 

We were intending on going to Index. My partner was real gung-ho and wanted to leave at 7am. Good thing he did, because it was pissing as we drove by Index and headed to alternate destination, Leavenworth.

 

Duty dome was the call. I'd never been there, but Bill recommended it highly.

 

There were about 5 cars already at Castle Rock as we drove by and a gaggle of climbers all over Bruce's Boulder. Noone at Duty when we arrived.

 

We started at Fish Wall and climbed 3 short little routes. Virgin Sturgeon was the best of the three. All quite short.

 

Moved over and hit Jazzy Document , the "cover" climb. That was a lot of fun. Sporto climb, seemed pretty easy for the grade (9).

 

Next up the hill was the Urban Nomads/300 Motivational Tapes duo. What a couple of cool climbs. Double thumbs up . No bolts except at belay stations. Both pitches are just about exactly 25 meters (Just barely made it on lead with a doubled 50m 8.5 with knots. No problem on the raps). Looks like you could add a another cool move or two at the top of 300 Motivational Tapes with a little scrubbing (short overhanging corner crack).

 

Now we trudged up to the Off Duty area and climbed p's 2 and 3 of Bombs Away. Cool first (second) pitch, then the next one was short but way nice . I think I went off route and pulled out over this roof using a jug. I figure it was off route as it was real dirty above the roof, but still goes. A little bit of scrubbing could make that a nice variation too.

 

From the top of Duty Dome we lowered down Neatness at Noon and climbed that on toprope. Looks like that thing is a full 60m pitch (has midway anchors). Lots of big fat new-looking bolts. Fun pitche(s). I gotta figure out how one gets to the bottom of that from below.

 

Finally we scrambled down and rapped Off Duty. I got to lead Off Duty. Excellent pitch! My favorite of the day. I was scared almost the whole time! I took too freakin' long though and Bill was a popsicle by the time I got back down and he declined to climb.

 

He wasn't too tired to pop those beers he lugged up there for us though. Thanks Bill! Back down to the truck just barely before the headlamp, completed the elusive 10-pitch crag day.

 

Great day. Nice weather, excellent views up to the Rat Creek Spires. No hoardes. We could see a bunch of folks sitting around in what looked like an "instructional" setting on top of Icicle Buttress, and there was a group of three up East of us, left of Warrior Wall, doing some new route work it looked like.

 

Anyway, gotta go back there. Some more good pitches to do, and a bunch of new big fat bolts on nice looking pitches that are not in the current guidebook. A couple of cool-looking crack lines over on Boutrous-Boutros Ghali Buttress (?) too, I think.

 

Later,

Chuck

[Dru]

Chris good to hear you cleaned up them 5.4s. I find that 5.4 is mostly C1 to me but I will do my best to try for a redpoint on my next weeklong trip down there. Do you have any special "Beta" on some of those difficult routes? i saw a girl place a 2 lb. yam in Classic Crack once.

[TimL]

Anybody do Outer Space yet this year? Going to take a friend up there for his first time on route this weekend. Is the route dry yet? My guess is the descent gulley still has snow?

[TimL]

 

 

[ 04-22-2002, 03:58 PM: Message edited by: TimL ]

[bobbyperu]

timl, definatly take your bud with you on the sno crick wall,plenty of goods spots to smoke on route. no worrys about the descent or the route being dry, last sunday we did "space is the place" a.k.a. outer space, and it was a blast!i has forgotten how cool those upper pitches are! carefull on top though, the big goat almost rushed my brother for his piss... also check for chiggers, all three of us got hit. tweezers?