Dru Posted September 24, 2001 Posted September 24, 2001 Ahhhh... it was going to rain all weekend in SW BC allegedly. so a bunch of us canadians decided to go to Leavenworth eh? 2 hours to go cross border so I left Chilliwack at5:30 and didnt get to 8-mile till 1:30 AM. Sat AM we decide to go to Prussik Peak. Buy our dumb parking pa$$e$ and head up Snow Creek trail figuring if ranger stops us and asks why we have thermarests and overnight packs and day use permits we will tell him we are meeting Capt. Caveman at the peak and that he has the overnight permit... as this would be hard to disprove. Anyways hike up that fucking trail for hours and eventually come to Nada Lake. wait an HOUR for my partner to catch up -she has sore feet- sit around and ponder - she wants to bail. so we hike all the way back down that stupid trail with our big heavy packs... RRRRRRR . that night in the campground we have to put out our CANDLE LANTERNS and sit in the dark because 'candle lanterns don't have an on/off switch' and are therefore open flame and prohibited under the fire ban. i could do a lot more damage with a MSR stove with an off switch but thats too much logic for the dumbass ranger. bah! Sunday - OK lets do something adventurous to make up for missing out on Prusik. So we decide to do the Wild Traverse on Midnight. Hike up stupid steep eroded sand pit of a trail . arrive at rock. traverse out on ledge. WRONG LEDGE! traverse out on another ledge following trail of cairns. also WRONG LEDGE (way too low). figure out where right ledge is - by now it is 2:30 PM. ho hum some other day. hike back down to Castle. Decide to do 'Directissima'. stupid hot. blow sequence near top. battle in cam. pump out. decide to hang off cam - go to hang and notice cam is held in by one tooth of one cam and the rest are umbrella'd. just looking at cam is enough to make it fall out. so i don't get to hang but terror suddenly makes me notice hold in front of my face i had mised and i power through to the ledge. drive home. traffic at 30MPH thru baring, index, startup etc due to huge posse of RVs not using slow vehicle pullouts. fucking dumb asses! 5 hrs castle rock to CDN border. (should be 3.5) so..... chest beating aside - 2 days, 7000 feet of elevation gain and loss, 2 pitches, 1 route, $65 US (that's like $100 CDN). I dunno if it was worth it or not. [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 09-24-2001).] Quote
hikerwa Posted September 24, 2001 Posted September 24, 2001 was up in L-worth myself this weekend, chopped anchors(see other thread), but great weather, was at 8-mile, drank some kokonees, flashed some small (and I mean small) boulder problems. later. sean Quote
Beck Posted September 24, 2001 Posted September 24, 2001 I think you're supposed to either 1) short rope the girl to the top, 2) stop right there, feed her some valium and massage her feet with soothing salve until she feels better 3) camp in the wilderness in some cranny no ranger will find you and break out the coconut oil or 4)fireman carry her to the top. Assuming she WAS a SHE, Dru! Quote
jrwclimbs Posted September 24, 2001 Posted September 24, 2001 Sorry you didn't get Prusik. We were up there this weekend, too. Awesome climb, and that approach from Snow creek TH is a big bad ass bitch. And for what it's worth, everyone's feet hurt! Next time over assgard for sure! Quote
Dru Posted September 24, 2001 Author Posted September 24, 2001 Is it faster to go in by Asgard Pass or Snow lakes anyways? What are the respective times in? Quote
Dru Posted September 24, 2001 Author Posted September 24, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Beck: I think you're supposed to either 1) short rope the girl to the top, 2) stop right there, feed her some valium and massage her feet with soothing salve until she feels better 3) camp in the wilderness in some cranny no ranger will find you and break out the coconut oil or 4)fireman carry her to the top. Assuming she WAS a SHE, Dru! Â She would kick my ass! I make her lead the hard pitches and carry the heavy gear! [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 09-24-2001).] Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 24, 2001 Posted September 24, 2001 Drul missed you bro we were waiting... We climbed the south face and did some other work <spray coming>. Then we hiked over and climbed Toketie Wall and bushwacked down yesterday evening. JRW where you the guys with 2 girls on the West Ridge Saturday? Hope you guys had fun [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 09-24-2001).] Quote
mattp Posted September 24, 2001 Posted September 24, 2001 For the South Face of Prussik, it is slightly shorter and there is a little less elevation gain going over Aasgard Pass. However, I like camping at Lake Viviane, and to get there is about the same elevation gain and distance either way (Snow Creek or Aasgard). Aasgard is more scenic, with more views, but that approach has much more travel on scree and, should the weather turn bad, would be in the wind for much longer. Permits are often available for Snow Lakes when you can't get one to camp in the upper basin. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 24, 2001 Posted September 24, 2001 Drul to answer your question with my opinion. No matter what way you go to Prusik you are going a long way. Personally I prefer Snow Lakes but you can come in from the Rat Creek area as well. I liked walking that way to see Prusik, Flake Tower, Monument, Boxtop, High Priest etc from the north. They are pretty impressive from there. Quote
rockrat16 Posted September 24, 2001 Posted September 24, 2001 Cpt.C., JRW and I were with another couple on the W. Ridge on Saturday. It was fun! Now I know why it is called the Enchantments. I didn't want to leave and we made friends with a family of goats who hung out at camp with us all Sunday morning. Prusik is awesome! Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 24, 2001 Posted September 24, 2001 Nice rockrat! I tell you man all that stuff is good back there. Permit Schmermits. I recommend that place highly Quote
Dru Posted September 24, 2001 Author Posted September 24, 2001 Look out for those goats I undestand they are so urine addicted they sometimes don't wait for you to pee but come up and try to 'nurse' from your.... Actually i just made that up. Hee hee! Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 25, 2001 Posted September 25, 2001 Drul, You know you should find another parnter if she cant walk 10 miles. Man we were gonna make the first *joint* US Canadian ascent of the Face but your partner fell out. You were over half way there jeez Quote
nolanr Posted September 25, 2001 Posted September 25, 2001 Colchuck Lake approach is shorter but steeper. Pick your poison. Had some friendly goats hanging around waiting for us to piss up by Goat Pass a couple weeks ago, but they never jumped the gun and "milked" us. Sounds like an urban (or rather rural) legend to me. Dru, I'm a little surprised to hear that after all of your Canadian epics you had such an unpleasant experience in the Enchantments/Leavenworth area. Better luck next time, it's worth a repeat visit. Hey, if you think the drive sucks, just go later. We left L-worth around 7:00 this Sunday and were able to cruise along pretty good the whole way home. Quote
Matt Posted September 25, 2001 Posted September 25, 2001 I climbed Prusik earlier this summer and we hiked in Snow Creek trailhead and out via Colchuck/Stuart trailhead. It makes for a nice loop. Hitch hiking to the car was not a problem. I am so impressed that some people climb the South face of Prusik in a day from the trailhead!!! I can understand the west ridge in a day, but the south face, that's some serious hiking/climbing. Quote
dbb Posted September 25, 2001 Posted September 25, 2001 . [This message has been edited by dbb (edited 09-25-2001).] Quote
dbb Posted September 25, 2001 Posted September 25, 2001 Dru, were you the guy with the long hair and goatee, or the team behind them with the new yellow rope? Quote
rockrat16 Posted September 25, 2001 Posted September 25, 2001 my boyfriend, jrwclimbs, is the guy with the long hair and facial hair. I was his partner. Our friends were the ones with the new yellow rope. Dru said he didn't get to climb Prusik - sounds like he didn't make it past Nada Lake. Quote
Dru Posted September 26, 2001 Author Posted September 26, 2001 I got short hair and short goatee. Kinda like Kurt Smith but better looking (hey ladies!) Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 26, 2001 Posted September 26, 2001 Poor sad sad Drul Cant even make it to Prusik Peak without falling out Just kidding. Hey Dru you should really check out that peak though. I tell you Temple Canyon is next on my hit list for the following season. Quote
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