kevin Posted September 14, 2001 Share Posted September 14, 2001 I took full advantage of the great weather last weekend and pulled off a one day acsent of the N Ridge. We left the car at the Engles trailhead shortly before 3am and hiked up to the notch in the ridge where we took a short break at 8:30. The temperature was quite warm, but a constant breeze kept it feeling a bit more alpine. Rainier looked beautiful from goat pass catching the first morning rays. We roped up and climbed to the base of the Gendarme in two or three pitches of simul-climbing. As intimidating as that thing is with only a small alpine rack, we decided to go for it anyway. The 4 camelot is still fixed in the offwidth and doesn't look to be going anywhere for a while. We'll see how it survives the winter, though. It is, however, near the top of the offwidth section, and having a 3.5 inch piece is still not a bad idea if you want to be well protected. With the Gendarme behind us we got cliffed out on top of the next big tower, came back down a few feet and decided to use the rapel slings for a short (40-50 ft) rappel and then climbed back up to the notch just beyond the tower. I'm curious how other people have gotten through this area. In hind sight, I think we could have found a way to traverse around the tower, but we saw the slings and a way that would work so we took it. Sticking to the ridge would have been a bit better style, though. The rest of the climb is pretty straight forward. We were on the top by 4 and found the long's pass trail just before dark which returned us to the car a little before ten. I felt like the one day push is a great tactic for this route if the weather looks good and you are reasonable confident in you abilities to move quickly up the ridge. It is well worth the long day, to be able to really enjoy the route without heavy packs and bivy gear. [This message has been edited by kevin (edited 09-13-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted September 14, 2001 Share Posted September 14, 2001 What day did you climb? We did the full ridge on saturday. As to your question, we avoided the top of the gendarme by heading right just above the OW. There are big sandy ledges to belay from and you don't have to rappel to get to the notch. I guess we can't really claim that we climbed the gendarme though... oh well. Those were some cold pitches! Nice job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblakley Posted September 14, 2001 Share Posted September 14, 2001 I was going to do it in two days this weekend with friends and was wondering where you guys reccomend bivying? I'd like to get as far up the route as possible on Sat and was wondering how the bivy area around pitch 8 is? Any other beta on a two day ascent would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted September 14, 2001 Share Posted September 14, 2001 Jim, I would highly recomend doing it in a day. We went from a camp at Ingalls creek just below Longs pass and the base of the Cascadian Coluoir. It worked well, 18 hrs camp to camp. Then we built a fire, hydrated and slept before going out to the car. We did the whole ridge in eight pitches total. Our packs seemed heavy with warm clothes in them, bivi gear and water would be no fun. The best bivi sites are at the notch. Above that you've got small ledges here and there. There is no water. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblakley Posted September 14, 2001 Share Posted September 14, 2001 Thanks for the beta guys!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted September 14, 2001 Share Posted September 14, 2001 Jim, I think the highest point to bivy would be right at the notch. When we did the climb about 3-4 weeks ago there a few guys who tried to go up further. We saw them the next morning on a 45 degree slope, hooked in with their harnesses on the north face. It looked like it really sucked. I didn't see any other suitable sites up higher than the notch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted September 14, 2001 Share Posted September 14, 2001 I say bivy at the notch. Great sites (though water-free this late in the season) and in my opinion easy to complete the ridge from there. No need to climb higher to less comfortable bivy to gain time but lose sleep. Â Better yet, don't bivy at all! I was with Kevin and we really enjoyed the lightweight alpine push -- not having bivy gear allowed us to summit in a day and return to the car in a 19-hour push. Damn good experience, which I recommend. Of course, the high bivy is also unforgettable, with great views of sunrise over Glacier Peak . . . Whatever you do, enjoy! Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted September 15, 2001 Share Posted September 15, 2001 Kevin, The lower portion is sweet, definately worth it. I'd do it again anyday, and its worth going back to get. You have about 3-5 pitches of 5.8-5.9 on really good rock/sweet cracks. Then you rack for simo-climbing and blast for the notch on mostly 4th class with some shot bouldery moves. Good gear, suprisingly not much loose rock... Getting down to the base from goat pass kinda sucks and is slow, but you won't need an axe or crampons this late. Aside from two short crossings we skirted the ice. TWO TUMBS UP! Go get it! The relief is huge!!! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 09-14-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegetablebelay Posted September 15, 2001 Share Posted September 15, 2001 Lambone, You guys smoked that route! My buddy and I met you at Goat Pass and did the upper ridge. I think you beat us back to camp! Vegetablebelay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted September 15, 2001 Share Posted September 15, 2001 My bro is the hardman from Montana. 'Nough said. Plus most of the lower ridge is 4th class. We allmost froze to death on the gendarme... I'm glad you guys made it safely! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin Posted September 15, 2001 Author Share Posted September 15, 2001 lambone we climbed on sunday so we wouldn't have seen you up there although I did talk briefly with someone in the parking lot saturday night. Good job on climbing the whole ridge. What did you think? I've heard mixed reports about the quality of climbing on the lower portion. We were on the Gendarme right in midday, and still almost froze to death with that cold wind and shade. I feel your pain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted September 16, 2001 Share Posted September 16, 2001 though bring crampons if you're doing the upper ridge only. Ice axe is optional because it is not steep, but good luck trying to cross that glacier if you bail on the lower ridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daler Posted September 16, 2001 Share Posted September 16, 2001 jblakley We did the whole ridge on Sat! If you are doing the whole ridge there are bivies about 5 pitches up on the lower ridge, then the notch and after that you would want to be on top. We did it car to car in 18:45 and I highly recommend going light and just doing it in a day. You can get to the base of the lower ridge without crampons. We had Ice axes to cross a 100 ft wide ice patch. Dale Remsberg [This message has been edited by daler (edited 09-16-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 17, 2001 Share Posted September 17, 2001 Sounds like you guys who did the full ridge did not approach via mtnrs creek. The Beckey description is to the t on this. There would be no snow to reach the east side of the lower ridge (not sure about the west) and the approach would be way less strenuous from there Great job on a quick time guys. [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 09-17-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daler Posted September 17, 2001 Share Posted September 17, 2001 Walter, We did use the Ingalls approach. Mostly because of the less technical and prior knowledge of the Cascadian hell descent. Damm that Gendarme pitch is good!!! I don't think it is 5.10 as other have suggested though. dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin Posted September 18, 2001 Author Share Posted September 18, 2001 daler I agree that there isn't any 5.10 on the gendarme. which pitch have you heard people refer to as 5.10? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daler Posted September 18, 2001 Share Posted September 18, 2001 kevin, In the other north ridge thread texplorer talks about the Gendarme being a fred beckey 5.9- 5.10 for the rest of us. I think if it were at the crag it would be tossed around at 5.8++ maybe 5.9. Also the two short pitches are easily linked into one. Also in the other threads people talk about needing a number 4 camalot. Even if the fixed piece was gone ( its not as of 9-15 ) there is good gear to the sides of the offwidth and on the lower ridge the offwidth sections could be avoided with the much better 5.8 twin cracks to the left. dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walter_Burt Posted September 18, 2001 Share Posted September 18, 2001 I did the complete ridge from Mtnrs Cr back in 2+ days in '91 - we descended the Colchuck/Sherpa Col. The approach is good, but you want to scout it prior to doing it in the dark or you can lose an hour or so wandering around in the bog. Daler, I'm assuming you used the Goat Pass from Ingalls approach? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 18, 2001 Share Posted September 18, 2001 Walter I agree studying or scouting the approach would be a good idea. Although I recently did it (approach and it was raining) and we only spent 15 minutes looking for the path through the wooded area just past the bog. Altimeters are useful sometimes Nowadays someone even marked much of it past there with orange tape. Voila! Dont you mean the Sherpa Argonaut Col? Still I think with that harder approach Daler and Lammybone did a great job. [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 09-17-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walter_Burt Posted September 18, 2001 Share Posted September 18, 2001 Oops, yes the Sherpa-Argonaut Col. 11 years and the dark side of 40 are showing. That descent requires a lot of entertaining traversing and about 1,500 feet of boulder hopping on the way down - harder than the ascent. I'm impressed with the time Daler and Co. made given the approach route. My partner and I contemplated a one day try via that route and decided that our old knees would be worth the price of a shuttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 18, 2001 Share Posted September 18, 2001 Yeah a one day is a little of a suffering test for sure. Two cars is key if you went up and over. That Cascadian is a beyotch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted September 19, 2001 Share Posted September 19, 2001 quote: Originally posted by texplorer: Jim, I think the highest point to bivy would be right at the notch. When we did the climb about 3-4 weeks ago there a few guys who tried to go up further. We saw them the next morning on a 45 degree slope, hooked in with their harnesses on the north face. It looked like it really sucked. I didn't see any other suitable sites up higher than the notch. yeah, I was one of those guys- it did suck. We were trying to top out before the weather got any worse, my partners headlamp stopped working so thats where we called it a night. (the weather cleared by morning, Im still bitching at him for talking me into that one!) Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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