Ecuador

[randobanjo]

Hello all. I posted here about climbing in Bolivia two seasons ago and got some wonderful beta from someone (Can't find the post anymore). Whoever you were, Thanks so much. I had a fantastic trip thanks to all your advice.

 

Now I've got a pal who will be working in Ecuador for the next year or so, and so I will be making the trek to Quito this coming season.

 

Does anyone have direct experience with the local guide services? Advice as to which companies are reputable, reasonably priced, conveniently located, etc? I prefer hiring local guides rather than going through big US climbing schools.

 

My expeience in Bolivia was unbelievable. Talented guides, decent food, cheap prices, immediate availablity. I'm Looking for the same kind of thing in Ecuador. I'd rather not book anything in advance since my plans will be up totally up in the air in terms of timing.

 

Looking to climb Illiniza or Antisana along with a technically easier volcanoe (Cotopaxi or Cayambe).

 

Any and all info is appreciated...

[cfire]

It's been over 10 years since I was there, but we befriended a guy named Alfonso and used him a little while there. He was the lead guide for Suretrek and had just inherited the trekking company from a German dude that died in a rafting accident. He built the business up and offered excellent service to us as we got into El Altar. He had some good people working for him there as well. Some were very accomplished climbers.

 

Again, this was over 10 years ago, but I see he is still up and running and looks to have expanded some. Alfonso is a great guy and I would think that he still offers an excellent service.

 

Here's a link to his company

http://www.surtrek.com/en/ecuador.htm

 

Good Luck

[ryland_moore]

With global warming, it is getting even more difficult to climb the easier volcanoes. Illiniza Norte has a serious Grade V up to 60 degrees that used to be the standard route!

 

I would rec. heading up the big three and can knock them all off in about 10-14 days with acclimation. You can hike one of the 15k foot volcanoes near Quito to help acclimate. Hang in Quito for a few days to get used to flying to 9k and head up.

 

No need for a guide, but if you feel comfortable, then do so. I would start with El Cayembe, then Cotopaxi, and finally hit up Chimborazo. Then, when finished head to the hotsprings town of Banos. A guide for AAI put up a bunch of sport climbs down in the gorge upstream of town near the zoo. You pay a farmer to access his property and can hike down into the Gorge and sport climb. Fun way to end a high altitude trip and you feel like superman once down in the lower environs.

 

Don't forget to hit up the town of Otovalo for their awesome markets and bartering options!

[Mark_Husbands]

i went there about ten years ago and the highlights for me were a couple of routes on Illiniza Sur (standard route and a somewhat more direct route) and especially the Italian route on Obispo, El Altar. The latter climb was by far the most interesting total experience because it takes you somewhat off the tourist track through some small villages and into fairly remote feeling area. there were no other climbing parties there when we went. not sure how warming has affected these routes.

[daveLok]

I returned from Ecuador last week after spending 16 days there. I had hooked up on the internet with a couple of climbers from summitpost.org, however both of them bailed out for one reason or another. As a result, I ended up going with a local guide company in Quito (Safari - http://www.safari.com.ec). I used them for Iliniza Norte and Cotopaxi. The quides very mostly professional and the rates were competitive. Pepe was the head guide and he was good. My only grievance is that I did not get any discount for the second attempt on Cotopaxi. Both my summit attempts failed (first due to a snow storm and second due to avalanche conditions). I had to pay full price both times. Also I got the feeling that Safari knew the conditions were not right for summit attempt, however they did not disclose this to the clients.

 

Regarding the conditions on Iliniza norte, yup there was no snow on the mountain. However the climb itself was a 3rd-4th class scramble from the refuge....nothing too difficult really.

 

Last few meters to the summit of Iliniza Norte (sorry, the image is a bit underexposed)

Edited December 31, 2005 by daveLok

[rbw1966]

Both of the Illinzas have routes on them that are relatively easy and non-technical. On Illiniza Sur, the Ramp route (I think this is what its called) is a bit more fun.

 

Second the recommendation for Otovalo. Incredible place. I would recommend Papallacta (sp?) for hot springs rather than Banos. Sure, Banos is closer to the jungle but the hot springs itself is pretty ghetto. People were washing their clothes in them when we arrived.

 

Also, I recommend hitting some of the spots along the coast. After our summit on Cayambe we took a bus to the beach where we laid out eating Ceviche and washing it down with many cervezas. A nice respite before heading back to the mountains.

 

I would love to go back to Ecuador someday. Have fun!

[dylan_taylor]

The standard route on Illiniza Norte is a fun hiking route that you can do in flip flops if the weather is good, however, tennies tend to perform better in the occasional snow patch.

 

Illiniza sur has gotten a bit more technical over the past few years. La Rampa no longer exists (as a snow and ice route anyway). Rumor has it some locals have been scrambling up it as sort of a bowling alley/rock climb. I'd prefer the normal route, which still comes in quite nicely, sometimes even with a pitch or two of ice.

Summit is top left corner:

 

My favorite out of all the peaks down there has been Antisana (i've never been to El Eltar or Sangay so i can't comment on those heaps.)

In December 04 we saw no one there. It is the one peak you do not use a hut for (real camping in the grass, and human feces are hard to find!!!). True adventure, big glaciers, big slots, and no well-beaten trough to follow if the weather shits the bed. Here's a shot just below the summit cap:

 

 

Then there's cotopaxi...

Cotopaxi is sort of the dream volcano, though quite busy. The hut is fairly clean (much more so than the dingy green-slime-filled hovel at the base of Illiniza Sur - seems like we all got sick there - just from breathing the stale air in that place). The route is usually straight forward, and quite scenic.

The summit is top notch

If you're lucky you'll see Tungurahua and Sangay erupting simutaneously.

 

As for local guides, there are some decent organizations with both good and bad guides (a lot are freelance and will work for anyone). However, I can not recommend them because I am biased because I am a U.S. guide. I've worked with Ecuadorian guides and I can say that the training standards are far better than Bolivian standards, but that doesn't always correlate to performance. I watched a "veteran" guide shortroping three clients (one of whom was my girlfriend) down a 40 degree neve slope with a horrible runout. He was almost tripping my girlfriend with a huge bight of slack, as he was speaking on a cell phone. I will not work with him again. Caveat Emptor: You get what you pay for. Suerte.

Dylan

[randobanjo]

Perfect. That's just what I'm looking for. I'll most likely be by myself (for at least the climbing portion of the trip), so I need to know that when I get to Quito, there are readily available guide services. Sounds like there are.

 

I'm not a newbie, so I'm really just paying for a climbing partner who knows the area. I'll probably want to lead the technical portions of the routes, anyway. One of my guides in Bolivia had no problem with that.

 

Looks like Antisana and Illiniza Sur are the winners. Might have to slog up cotopaxi as well.

 

This isn't happening until mid-summer, but I'll post a trip report on my return. Thanks again!!

 

Another question for Dylan: is there any reason to prefer the summer season over the winter season? Or are they both equally accomodating for climbing?

[dylan_taylor]

I've only been there during [our] winter season. From what I hear, there are plenty of good days in the summer dry season (June-aug are often ok, some folks have had decent though limited success in september). If you are flexible with your schedule and enjoy seeing all the other stuff that Ecuador has to offer than you can just go up to the huts when the weather gets good. One benifit of local guides is that they can often be hired spur of the moment (except during busy holiday seasons). Organizations like Safari, Ecuadorian Alpine Institute (big, gnarly 4WD A-team-style van), and some of the others mentioned also provide the transportation as well as the guide. If you walk around gringolandia for a while, you will see plenty of outfitters' offices that you can inquire with. Good luck, and good hunting.

[ryland_moore]

Also, a buddy from college owns the Magic Bean hostel and restaurant in New Town QUito. Check it out. Pretty cool. If you want to do some fishing, he is an awesome flyfisherman and can point you in the right direction, whether fishing streams or on the coast (but being from Charleston, SC he prefers salt water flyfishing).....Summers are less reliable for weather and conditions on the glacier, but if you are down there long enough, I am sure you will find a weather window....

[crazy_t]

Ecuador is a great place. A few notes: Cotopaxi is a beautiful climb, really interesting yet still pretty moderate. Spend at least 1 night in Tambopaxi, an amazing lodge in the paramo beneath the mountain. Trout dinners, featherbeds, wine. The owner Reno is a pretty famous Ecuadorian guide, well respected and involved with their MGA, and would be a good resource for finding a safe guide or services for any of your plans- http://www.tambopaxi.com/ He and his wife also own a B+B in Quito, very nice, pretty low key.

Cayambe is nice too, good serac-ing below, and a bit of rock climbing above the hut. People can get shut down on the last bit to the summit plateau in unstable conditions.

Otovalo is great. Pappalacta hot springs are awesome, at 11,000', great lodging, cheap massages, very clean, and 30+ pools of good natural water, in a cloudforest (flowers, hummingbirds). It's a bit out of the way though, maybe 3 hours from Quito. The Magic Bean is a cool place. Would be a good place to start your trip, in a fun part of town (though can be pretty dangerous after dark in "Gringolandia") and would be a good resource too- http://www.ecuadorexplorer.com/magic/ . I have worked with Ossy down there, and met another cool guide named Edison who has an American girlfriend- both speak english very well, but unfortunately I don't have current contact info. Banos is pretty cool too, a bit artsy-hippie-ish, fun place, but sometimes the hot springs are closed due to fluctuations in temps caused by the local volcano. There's mountain biking there and a cool spot to stay a bit down the road called el Otro Lado, on the "other side" of the river, which you get to by a ride on a metal basket on a cable 200' or so above the river. Otro Lado is low key, very small, but beautiful, with organic meals and massages. Hope this helps, have a blast!

Edited January 6, 2006 by crazy_t

[crazy_t]

Another thing- driving may be a big part of your cost. For a lot of these roads guides/drivers need high clearance or 4wd, and it will be a significant part of your budget, likely. There may be alternative ways to break up the cost- buses, sharing a ride or guide for specific mountains, etc. Let the guides know what you are thinking in your communications with them beforehand and see what they or Reno recommend. Maybe your friend will have a car?

[crazy_t]

Rando- here's a link to the guides' page of a local company that Reno (Cesar Roman) works for- http://www.companiadeguias.com.ec/quienes_somos.php?osCsid=195d1f7794830d11e3e09910e68f876d