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daveLok

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Everything posted by daveLok

  1. I tore my labrum on the left shoulder few years back when I fell skiing. I ignored it for some time, until it became worse and my shoulder started popping out whenever I overextended it. This happened 4-5 times and I ended up going for a surgery. It's been more than two years since the surgery. I would say i have most of my strength back and probably 85% of the range of movement. Unfortunately i had another accident few weeks back and ended up tearing the rotator cuff on my right shoulder. This time I am going take it easy for a while.
  2. I was there yesterday, conditions were pretty good higher up. Very different conditions (read 'not good') near the base. They also opened up the backcountry yesterday.
  3. Alpine Descending Cotopaxi after a snow storm.
  4. I returned from Ecuador last week after spending 16 days there. I had hooked up on the internet with a couple of climbers from summitpost.org, however both of them bailed out for one reason or another. As a result, I ended up going with a local guide company in Quito (Safari - http://www.safari.com.ec). I used them for Iliniza Norte and Cotopaxi. The quides very mostly professional and the rates were competitive. Pepe was the head guide and he was good. My only grievance is that I did not get any discount for the second attempt on Cotopaxi. Both my summit attempts failed (first due to a snow storm and second due to avalanche conditions). I had to pay full price both times. Also I got the feeling that Safari knew the conditions were not right for summit attempt, however they did not disclose this to the clients. Regarding the conditions on Iliniza norte, yup there was no snow on the mountain. However the climb itself was a 3rd-4th class scramble from the refuge....nothing too difficult really. Last few meters to the summit of Iliniza Norte (sorry, the image is a bit underexposed)
  5. Thanks rbw/mtnfreak. I will be taking along my degres and other gear.
  6. Hmm, ok I guess I'll just jam the pack in a duffle bag and not worry about it. Thanks everyone . Slightly off topic, I was planning to rent some of the gear (boots, ice axe, crampons) in Quito to save weight on the flight (since I was planning to take the pack as a carry-on). I am still thinking of doing it since it seems pretty cheap to rent gear there. My only concern is plastic boots, anyone know how easy/difficult it is to rent boots there?
  7. Thanks everyone. It seems like you speak from past experience btw, does anyone know where i can get these military surplus duffel bags locally? It's too late to order them online.
  8. I am flying to South America next week and am planning to take my Gregory Palisade (~5500 cu in) as a carry-on. Its padding + waist-belt (which is painful to detach IMO) make it pretty bulky. Plus it has yards of straps/cords/loops hanging of it. Heck, I’d be surprised if it makes through the x-ray machine without catching on something. Btw, I want to take it as a carry-on because: a) There is no good way to secure/lock it as a check-in. b) I don’t want to spend extra cash getting a duffel bag just for the backpack. Anyone care to share any experiences with carrying bulky climbing backpacks as carry-on? Any problems with jamming it in overhead bins? Any raised eyebrows from flight-attendants, security? Oh, and weight shouldn’t be an issue in my case, I doubt if I will exceed 25lbs. Most of my climbing equipment is going to be checked in. Thanks
  9. I am planning to be in that area for 2-3 weeks starting early December and too am looking for partners. Btw, does anyone have an idea about the weather during that time. It seems it generally starts pouring starting in December. Katy,I hope you dont mind my piling on to your threa...
  10. Did you go through a guide service? Do you have any reccommendations? Thanks.
  11. Is this doable in early December? I have about 3 weeks off after thanksgiving and am thinking of either heading to nepal, or to south america. I would prefer nepal if its not too late in the season.
  12. forgot to dry the damn tent after using it last time. Have got mildew spots all over it now. Did some search on the web and saw suggestions to use lysol...so will probably give that a try. Any one else have any other advice getting rid of it?
  13. Thanks for the advice, I will drop by Jim's shop sometime. In the meanwhile, if someone has first hand experience with these crampons, I'd appreciate to know what you think...
  14. This topic reminds me of the guy in colorado who had to cut off his own arm to survive. Now the only time I can justify doing serious stuff solo is if there is good cell phone coverage
  15. Anyone have any experience with these? Also does anyone know how they compare with the model which has straps:
  16. nice. surprisingly, it doesnt have the paradise webcam.
  17. avitripp, can you elaborate which part of ladakh were you accosted by bandits. This is the first time I have heard of such trouble in ladakh. I am curios because I am planning a trip there later this year. Thx.
  18. You can also go to http://www.optoutprescreen.com and select to permanently opt-out of pre-approved credit card offers.
  19. I too am thinking of switching to road biking. Any good reccomendations for a good road bike (my budget is ~ $800). Sorry for diverting this thread...
  20. No tri-mode for GSM means the phone works for all the three GSM frequency bands (i.e. your phone will work in europe and asia too). However I do think you can call 911 even if your phone doesnt have coverage. I know that whenever I try to dial a number from my t-mobile phone when there is no coverage, it says 'can not make non-emergency calls' or something like that. So if that is true, I am happy with GSM...
  21. I have a T-mobile phone (GSM) and the coverage sucks once you are a few miles away from the freeway. With the GSM phones (at least the one I have), you cant switch to analog mode in case you dont have digital coverage.
  22. Thanks everybody, I am definately going for the genie and the ferrata pants. Is there anything else which makes much more sense to get at MEC (either because of the price or because you dont get the same item/brand easily here in WA)? Lot of the rock hardware seems to be much cheaper. e.g. this BD stopper set sells for almost the same (but in USD) at REI. Black Diamond Stopper Set #4-13
  23. I will be in vancouver for a few hours this weekend and am thinking about checking out MEC. I need to stock up for the next climbing season and was wondering if any of you had reccommendations about stuff I am better off buying at MEC as compared to locally/online? Here is some of the stuff I am looking for, would also appreciate if anyone had any experience/feedback on them: 1) A no frills summit pack (possibly Serratus Genie). 2) Schoeller pants (leaning towards MEC Ferrata). 3) Bivy sack (any reccommendations)? 4) Quickdraws/wiregate biners/slings 5) Cams/nuts,etc (just got started with lead climbing). 6) rope for crag climbing 7) Ice protection I am in no hurry to buy any of this gear and am not sure if I am better off gambling for some online/local sale events coming up in the next few months or should I just go ahead and buy them off at MEC? Thanks.
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