jmckay Posted December 26, 2005 Posted December 26, 2005 How to cut a sling without a knife. You ever find yourself on a big icefall and have to built a Abalakov (Ice hour Glass). It is about then that you realise that “Bear Killer” your blade is either in your pack or stuck in the back of your best friend. To poor or too cheap too to leave a whole 5 meters of sling or Prussik cord. Here is how I cut a sling quicker than you can rummage threw the 22 pockets in the five layers of clothing you have on. Take your ice tool (two hammers work best so best borrow your buddies hammer if your not climbing with two) place the tool in the ice so that it is sunk to the hilt and won’t wobble around. Pick out that piece of material that needs cutting Lay the material over the edge of the hammer Whack said material good and hard 3 or 4 times in the same place (repeat as necessary) Quote
Toast Posted December 26, 2005 Posted December 26, 2005 I don't think I'd be too cheap a bastard to leave behind a little extra webbing, but I may have run out and now need to cut a sewn spectra sling. I'm wondering if this would be as easy. Quote
jmckay Posted December 26, 2005 Author Posted December 26, 2005 (edited) Being cheap is not always a bad thing. Yeh it would cut spectra just fine. About 5 years ago we had an accident where a meter or two of sling hung out after the water knot. This was on selenium (Spray River Falls in the Josephson guidebook) the original Abalokov was buried in fresh water ice . The newly formed ice also buried the tail of extra sling material. The climbers who were not new to the game must of mistaken the piece of webbing that was not buried as the focal point of abalakov. In retrospect I can see how this could happen. There was a lot of dead air around the coffee shop the next morning as many of us wondered how many times we did the same thing. Native kids in Rogers Pass Edited December 26, 2005 by jmckay Quote
chriss Posted December 26, 2005 Posted December 26, 2005 With all the sharp stuff used to climb ice, why pound a sling with 2 hammers? I think the top edge of my pick is sharp enough to cut a sling with just a few passes. chris Quote
JoshK Posted January 7, 2006 Posted January 7, 2006 try it Chris and compare. yeah, try it...it takes forever I was faced with this same situation last month and sawing it over the top of the pick took quite some time. Quote
TimL Posted January 7, 2006 Posted January 7, 2006 Being cheap is not always a bad thing. Yeh it would cut spectra just fine. About 5 years ago we had an accident where a meter or two of sling hung out after the water knot. This was on selenium (Spray River Falls in the Josephson guidebook) the original Abalokov was buried in fresh water ice . The newly formed ice also buried the tail of extra sling material. The climbers who were not new to the game must of mistaken the piece of webbing that was not buried as the focal point of abalakov. In retrospect I can see how this could happen. There was a lot of dead air around the coffee shop the next morning as many of us wondered how many times we did the same thing. Native kids in Rogers Pass I agree 100%. If possible, do not leave an extra tail on the sling. I about bit it on Burgandy Spire when I clipped into the super long extra tail of a sling. It was on the last rap and thank God on a ledge. I clipped in, or thought I clipped in, pulled the ropes, threaded the ropes, clipped them into my device, tested the anchor, them went to unclip my daisy. That is when I saw it fall off the long tail. If I would of leaned back on the anchor, I would not be here now. Talk about close calls and luck. The mistake was my fault, but you could remove the danger out of the situation a little by cutting the tail. Quote
chriss Posted January 7, 2006 Posted January 7, 2006 try it Chris and compare. yeah, try it...it takes forever I was faced with this same situation last month and sawing it over the top of the pick took quite some time. It took less than a minute to cut through 1" tube webbing. Maybe 20 passes. I also tryed pounding the webbing as you describe. It also worked. The hardest part was supporting the tool with the webbing draped over it. Laying the webbing on a board and hitting it with the pick didn't work at all. The pick wouldn't penetrate the webbing. Hitting with the adze did nothing as well. My pick tips aren't that sharp at all but I had no trouble cutting on the top edge. chris Quote
ketch Posted January 7, 2006 Posted January 7, 2006 I think you missed something chriss. The idea is to lay the webbing over the hammer and strike it with the other hammer. The more square the corner the better. You are in essence simulating a rock fall strike. I can chop a piece of 1" with usually three swings. Super tape doesnt seem to cut quite as quick. As an aside I use the same technique but when I have just my tools I hold the webbing over the top of the adze tool so that it passes directly above the shaft. You can hold the webbing and the tool easily and brace the spike for the impact. A couple well placed swings with the hammer and it's a done deal. Quote
chriss Posted January 8, 2006 Posted January 8, 2006 Missed? Don't think so. I planted the pick of the tool in a 2x4. Drapped the webbing over the "sharp" corner of hammer and hit it with the hammer side of a claw hammer. Had the support the tool to hold it still. The webbing wanted to come off the tool as well. Maybe 6-8 swings and I was most of the way through. Hit the webbing every time. Maybe not exactly square because the tool and webbing moved after each hit. Same set up with the tool in the board to cut the webbing on the pick. Laid the webbing on board and tryed to put the pick and adze through the webbing. Dented the board through webbing but no cut. chris Quote
jmckay Posted January 11, 2006 Author Posted January 11, 2006 For fucks sake Chris now you owe me a beer for having to state the obvious. Try the same thing again but this time try it with a rock that has a reasonably sharp edge or plant your tool to the point it will never come out abd use the edge of a hammer or adze. I can't believe you used a board. You normally carry a 2x4 around climbing with you. They wonder why I drink! While we are on the subject you do owe me a beer so don't think you can leave my crib without paying up next time your up here. Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted January 11, 2006 Posted January 11, 2006 I bet we could get another 10 posts out of this easy Quote
DirtyHarry Posted January 12, 2006 Posted January 12, 2006 Chuck Norris just roundhouse kicks the sling apart. Quote
RocNoggin Posted January 12, 2006 Posted January 12, 2006 but does he do it with his tool buried to the hilt in the ice? Quote
chriss Posted January 12, 2006 Posted January 12, 2006 (edited) If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail - Maslow. Edited January 12, 2006 by chriss Quote
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