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Boston Basin


Wopper

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yes

 

which glacier? Doesnt really matter, all of them are in casual shape

 

the trail is the same as it ever was, except now you need to navigate mass avalanche destruction. Approach in daylight might save some time if you havent crossed this recently

 

approach with day pack and small rack ~2 hours up to basin...? Base of the Quien Sabe or Forbidden < 3 hours?

 

Alex

 

[ 09-23-2002, 04:56 PM: Message edited by: Alex ]

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I have to agree with Alex and my knowledge is months old. I approached and climbed in there two times this season.

 

To the basin with a day pack once took us about2.25 to 2.5 hours and I am out of shape. Only about 30 minutes less than with overnight packs. The key to me seemed to be as soon as you hit the avvvy debris cross it about 100 meters above where the trail hits it and then shwack (minor) up to the basin. It was no trail then and might still be. It seemed very straightforward to us and that was different parties each time.

 

Have fun climbing.

 

[ 09-23-2002, 05:09 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

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On 8/30, we went into Boston Basin with overnight packs, leaving at 4:30 PM and arriving at the upper Boston Basin camp at 6:30 PM (I just checked my notes). It was our 2nd trip to the basin this season, and we camped near the upper toilet. At the avy debris, just go straight across, following the boot prints, and pick up trail on the other side.

 

Forbidden (Noname Glacier) was OK, with typical late season breakup, but passable. We did the E Ridge Direct without any difficulties. Another party descended that day to adjacent camp from Sharkfin. In talking with them, they mentioned no problems.

 

You might shave some time off our time with day packs.

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How about this...We have never been up in Boston Basin before, I injured a finger in early August and have not been able to climb since(have been doing a lot of running and hiking) and my partner is willing to forgo more ambitious climbing else where to go up and check it out...Is doing Sharksfin in a day worth it?

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We used the E Ledges descent a la Nelson to put us back at the base of the climb allowing us to climb free of packs. Times from my notes:

 

6:30 Depart camp

8:00 Arrive base of climb

8:30 Start climbing

10:30 Summit

11:30 Start descent

12:30 Return to packs at base of climb

1:30 Return to camp

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Been to W. ridge Forbidden twice in the last two weeks. First time traversed high, second time traversed low accross the glacier. High traverse is the better option.

 

We had to go to the left of the small pinnacle at the bottom of the snow gully. Watch for a thin bridge just west of the pinnacle. You can rap over it on the decent.

 

There were some slides around the edges of the glacier, on the cliff band just above the bive sites. Don't spend too much time there.

 

If you're considering the snow gully - forget it. It's history for this season. The 5th class gully to the left is the way to go. [smile]

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quote:

Originally posted by Wopper:

I appreciate the info. To be more specific we are planning on doing Sharksfin on Saturday.

I was up in BB this past Sunday. The trail through the avy debris is a little tricky but you shouldn't have a probelm getting through it. You shouldn't have a problem on the glacier getting to the approach gulley. The approach gulley is probably totally melted out so expect scrambling on wet rock to get to the snowfield below SFT. Also, you can rap most of the approach gulley if you want as there are many stations set up. I'd say for an average party the approach would take 2 hours to BB and 2 hours from BB to the start of the route. Have fun!

 

Sharkfin is a fun easy climb and worth the hike. The views are spectacilar.

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