sweatinoutliquor Posted October 5, 2005 Posted October 5, 2005 Hey folks, quick question... I was having a beer with some folks I met yesterday who were up from california and, not sure how we got on the subject, but one of them apparently did some guiding where they used static ropes for toproping. I guess their reasoning was that they don't wear out as fast... But seriously? Do people actually do this? Not that I would ever even consider doing it, but is this actually an accepted practice? I feel like even on toprope, if your belayer takes his eye off of you to look at the prana top next door, and you take a few foot fall (cause of a few feet of slack) doesn't this end up sucking? Just seems weird... No I don't know what guide service it was. Quote
Alex Posted October 5, 2005 Posted October 5, 2005 yes, statics are used for toproping. They do have *some* streatch, just not as much as dynamic ropes. But yes, if you end up being inattentive as a belayer and allow 10 fet of penalty slack into the system, then falls even on TR become dangerous. Quote
sweatinoutliquor Posted October 5, 2005 Author Posted October 5, 2005 Huh... Interesting. Thanks Alex! Quote
Jason_Martin Posted October 5, 2005 Posted October 5, 2005 Many gyms use static ropes because they don't wear out as fast. However, if you're going to buy a rope, buy a dynamic rope. Â Jason Quote
sweatinoutliquor Posted October 5, 2005 Author Posted October 5, 2005 Wasn't planning on getting a static for toproping, just curious. At some point I was thinking about getting a static for hauling and jugging when aid climbing though... Any thoughts on what is a good diameter for that kinda work? Reason for posting the question was to see if I won the drinking argument last night, which, apparently I didn't. Quote
catbirdseat Posted October 5, 2005 Posted October 5, 2005 What do you mean you didn't win? Sure you won. If the climbing gyms use them, it must be safe. Seriously, though, they have what, 2-3% elongation versus 8-9% for a dynamic, for argument's sake. The fall factor is never worse than 1 on top rope. A one foot fall with 100 ft of rope out is FF 0.01. This is equivalent to a FF 0.03 or three foot fall on a dynamic rope. Sure it's safe. Quote
sobo Posted October 5, 2005 Posted October 5, 2005 At some point I was thinking about getting a static for hauling and jugging when aid climbing though... Any thoughts on what is a good diameter for that kinda work? Â A haul rope could be as small as being in the 6-8 mm range (depending upon how much shit/weight you're going to be hauling), but your jug rope would need to be of a large enough diameter to be clamped safely by your Jumar/Clog/whatever brand ascender you use. Also remember, if you're going to be using your Jumar as part of the hauling/ratchet/locking system, then you need to consider a larger diameter rope for hauling (otherwise, use a locking knot/prussic). Â If the rope diameter is too small, you're stepping on a slippery slope, so to speak. My rec would be to not go smaller than 10 mm, but then I did aid climbs back in the 80s with Jumars, and I'm just a washed up, old skewl, fat boy now. Just ask anybody who was at RopeUp. Quote
mattp Posted October 5, 2005 Posted October 5, 2005 The bet was that we'd be getting our our calculators and talking about fall factors within three posts. Quote
sweatinoutliquor Posted October 5, 2005 Author Posted October 5, 2005 Ha! Come'on Sobo, I heard you were all the rage at the ropeup! Thanks for the info... I use petzl ascension jumars, which I believe are good in the 7 - 13 mm range... I was thinking about aiming for 9, but, 10 may be that much more durable. Another annoying question that probably could be solved by reading labels... What's the lifespan of these ropes? I am assuming they last a bit longer than dynamic ropes before you have to retire them... Thanks again folks, I like this forum... Very informative. Quote
John Frieh Posted October 5, 2005 Posted October 5, 2005 Reason for posting the question was to see if I won the drinking argument last night, which, apparently I didn't. Â I predict $2 pints at Bombs... Quote
sweatinoutliquor Posted October 5, 2005 Author Posted October 5, 2005 Good prediction! Actually it was $2 pints at downtown american dream where the "argument" took place, but I was still upset and thinking about it for $2 pints at bombs (which happened later). That prediction is worth 12 points. Quote
iain Posted October 5, 2005 Posted October 5, 2005 Aahhh the bustling metropolis of Corvallis. I can feel the pulse of the city from here. Quote
sobo Posted October 5, 2005 Posted October 5, 2005 Ha! Come'on Sobo, I heard you were all the rage at the ropeup! Thanks for the info... I use petzl ascension jumars, which I believe are good in the 7 - 13 mm range... I was thinking about aiming for 9, but, 10 may be that much more durable. Another annoying question that probably could be solved by reading labels... What's the lifespan of these ropes? I am assuming they last a bit longer than dynamic ropes before you have to retire them... Thanks again folks, I like this forum... Very informative. Â Thanks. Methinks I self-deprecate a wee much... Â If Putzl is recommending 7-13, then I'd say a 9 mm would be a good choice. It's slightly below the mid-range of the device, but not so close to either extreme of the range. So you can save weight/cost on the 9mm, but not get scared by being on the device's fringe operating limit. A 9mm for jugging is plenty safe, IMO. Â As far as the static's lifespan, it's all a crapshoot. Just inspect your jug line really well before and after each trip. As you know, your life is wholly dependent upon its integrity, whereas your lead line is primarily a back-up to your climbing abilities. But you already knew that. Quote
iain Posted October 5, 2005 Posted October 5, 2005 As far as the static's lifespan, it's all a crapshoot. Â check out the ropes at the PRG sometime. Quote
sobo Posted October 5, 2005 Posted October 5, 2005 Whuddothey look like? Trashed? Or long-life versions? Quote
John Frieh Posted October 5, 2005 Posted October 5, 2005 Good prediction! Actually it was $2 pints at downtown american dream where the "argument" took place, but I was still upset and thinking about it for $2 pints at bombs (which happened later). That prediction is worth 12 points. Â Blamo! Oh how many times have I been half drunk at bombs arguing over climbing shit and watching my dirty friends grab half eaten plates of food before the wait staff can clean off the table . Drink one for me next Tuesday! Quote
sweatinoutliquor Posted October 5, 2005 Author Posted October 5, 2005 I haven't been to PRG yet, but I suppose I should go... The climbing gym here at OSU is quite awesome actually, (when there isn't a 2 hour waitlist to get in) but I hear that PRG is pretty sweet too... I am guessing that they use static there? Thanks again folks. ~SOL Quote
iain Posted October 5, 2005 Posted October 5, 2005 Whuddothey look like? Trashed? Or long-life versions? Â you might be on belay 10 ft up the wall when your belayer makes it to the actual kern of the kernmantle rope. (they seem to have become better about this) Quote
iain Posted October 5, 2005 Posted October 5, 2005 The climbing gym here at OSU is quite awesome actually  I take it you survived the 3 interviews, FBI background check, fitness test, and wallet-emptying required to be allowed to touch a belay device at that joint? Quote
sobo Posted October 5, 2005 Posted October 5, 2005 Hey SOL, Did you notice that your username makes for another amusing acronym, particularly well-adapted to climbing? Quote
sweatinoutliquor Posted October 5, 2005 Author Posted October 5, 2005 Oh how many times have I been half drunk at bombs Just half drunk? That place get's all silly... You know you're in trouble when the bartender starts giving you plastic, non-breakable, cups. Quote
sobo Posted October 5, 2005 Posted October 5, 2005 Whuddothey look like? Trashed? Or long-life versions? Â you might be on belay 10 ft up the wall when your belayer makes it to the actual kern of the kernmantle rope. (they seem to have become better about this) Â Crikey! Quote
sweatinoutliquor Posted October 5, 2005 Author Posted October 5, 2005 Hey SOL, Did you notice that your username makes for another amusing acronym, particularly well-adapted to climbing? What one is that? Shit out of luck, or S©irrhosis of the Liver... Quote
sobo Posted October 5, 2005 Posted October 5, 2005 The former. Hadn't thought about the latter, but it sure seems to fit with your name... Â Ooo! I get a agebottom: ! Quote
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