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Static rope for toproping?


sweatinoutliquor

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Hey folks, quick question... I was having a beer with some folks I met yesterday who were up from california and, not sure how we got on the subject, but one of them apparently did some guiding where they used static ropes for toproping. I guess their reasoning was that they don't wear out as fast... But seriously? hellno3d.gif Do people actually do this? Not that I would ever even consider doing it, but is this actually an accepted practice? I feel like even on toprope, if your belayer takes his eye off of you to look at the prana top next door, and you take a few foot fall (cause of a few feet of slack) doesn't this end up sucking? Just seems weird... No I don't know what guide service it was. confused.gifcantfocus.gifhellno3d.gifwazzup.gif

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yes, statics are used for toproping. They do have *some* streatch, just not as much as dynamic ropes. But yes, if you end up being inattentive as a belayer and allow 10 fet of penalty slack into the system, then falls even on TR become dangerous.

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Wasn't planning on getting a static for toproping, just curious. At some point I was thinking about getting a static for hauling and jugging when aid climbing though... Any thoughts on what is a good diameter for that kinda work? Reason for posting the question was to see if I won the drinking argument last night, which, apparently I didn't.

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What do you mean you didn't win? Sure you won. If the climbing gyms use them, it must be safe. Seriously, though, they have what, 2-3% elongation versus 8-9% for a dynamic, for argument's sake. The fall factor is never worse than 1 on top rope. A one foot fall with 100 ft of rope out is FF 0.01. This is equivalent to a FF 0.03 or three foot fall on a dynamic rope. Sure it's safe.

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At some point I was thinking about getting a static for hauling and jugging when aid climbing though... Any thoughts on what is a good diameter for that kinda work?

 

A haul rope could be as small as being in the 6-8 mm range (depending upon how much shit/weight you're going to be hauling), but your jug rope would need to be of a large enough diameter to be clamped safely by your Jumar/Clog/whatever brand ascender you use. Also remember, if you're going to be using your Jumar as part of the hauling/ratchet/locking system, then you need to consider a larger diameter rope for hauling (otherwise, use a locking knot/prussic).

 

If the rope diameter is too small, you're stepping on a slippery slope, so to speak. My rec would be to not go smaller than 10 mm, but then I did aid climbs back in the 80s with Jumars, and I'm just a washed up, old skewl, fat boy now. Just ask anybody who was at RopeUp. smirk.gif

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Ha! Come'on Sobo, I heard you were all the rage at the ropeup! Thanks for the info... I use petzl ascension jumars, which I believe are good in the 7 - 13 mm range... I was thinking about aiming for 9, but, 10 may be that much more durable. Another annoying question that probably could be solved by reading labels... What's the lifespan of these ropes? I am assuming they last a bit longer than dynamic ropes before you have to retire them... Thanks again folks, I like this forum... Very informative.

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Ha! Come'on Sobo, I heard you were all the rage at the ropeup! Thanks for the info... I use petzl ascension jumars, which I believe are good in the 7 - 13 mm range... I was thinking about aiming for 9, but, 10 may be that much more durable. Another annoying question that probably could be solved by reading labels... What's the lifespan of these ropes? I am assuming they last a bit longer than dynamic ropes before you have to retire them... Thanks again folks, I like this forum... Very informative.

 

Thanks. Methinks I self-deprecate a wee much...

 

If Putzl is recommending 7-13, then I'd say a 9 mm would be a good choice. It's slightly below the mid-range of the device, but not so close to either extreme of the range. So you can save weight/cost on the 9mm, but not get scared by being on the device's fringe operating limit. A 9mm for jugging is plenty safe, IMO.

 

As far as the static's lifespan, it's all a crapshoot. Just inspect your jug line really well before and after each trip. As you know, your life is wholly dependent upon its integrity, whereas your lead line is primarily a back-up to your climbing abilities. But you already knew that.

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Good prediction! Actually it was $2 pints at downtown american dream where the "argument" took place, but I was still upset and thinking about it for $2 pints at bombs (which happened later). That prediction is worth 12 points. bigdrink.gif

 

Blamo! Oh how many times have I been half drunk at bombs arguing over climbing shit and watching my dirty friends grab half eaten plates of food before the wait staff can clean off the table hellno3d.gif. Drink one for me next Tuesday! bigdrink.gifbigdrink.gifbigdrink.gif

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