Just the essentials, please.

[dialogue]

Hi. I'll be making my way to the coast range for the upcoming season and, as luck would have it, I happen to have some disposable cash. I'm interested in getting into alpine climbing -- have done some TR climbing here (east coast -- nothing too difficult) and wanted to get a list of the essentials. I know this is a broad question and as much as I realize that every person has unique needs I think it would be good to get feedback from more experienced folks. Fyi, I have the 'bare' essentials: harness, slings, biners, shoes. I've got a daypack(30L) and various articles of clothing suitable for climbing and skiing (summer/winter).

 

What else am I going to need to get squared away and started off properly? Thanks in advance!

Edited October 3, 2005 by dialogue

[Alex]

What else am I going to need to get squared away and started off properly?

 

Adequate instruction. Gear is just gear, without a brain it means nothing.

 

1) Please better define "coast range". Washington Cascades? BC Coast Range? Oregon?

 

2) "Upcoming season" ...like, Summer time? Gear will vary depending on whether you are here in June or August or October.

 

With those things in mind, here is a non-exhaustive list of things you will need to have or be able to borrow to do simple, overnight "alpine" trips in the Washington Cascades and Oregon. When coming up with this list I thought "what would I take on an overnight trip to the W Ridge of Forbidden?"

 

* instruction in self arrest, crevasse rescue, trad climbing, safe snow travel and climbing. RMI, AAI, the other AAI and other such outfits offer 6-21 day courses. The Mountaineers, BoeAlps and other such climbing clubs also offer basic courses that might meet your needs for less cost. Ideally, someone who is experienced will take you along some basic trips...if you post here under Climbing Partners someone might take you out.

 

* the 30L pack might be too small. 40L probably better for summer trips, larger for winter trips. I have 3 packs: summit pack for day trips in the Summer, a 40L pack for most things, and a Dana Terraplane for the long winter trips.

* sleeping bag. If buying just 1, get a 20 degree down bag.

* bivy sack/ tent. Essential.

* basic stove. In the Spring you might be melting snow for water.

* basic ice axe

* basic strap on crampons

* helmet

* trad rock climbing rack - set of nuts, set of cams from green alien/yellow TCU size to #3 camalot.

* PROBABLY need floatation of some sort eventually - snowshoes or AT skis

 

"Alpine climbing" is simply rock and snow and ice climbing farther from the road than "cragging". So mostly you need good camping gear, good camping skills, good boots, trad leading gear, and other stuff to execute the cross country travel.

 

If by "coast range" you mean "BC Coast Range", you would supplement this list with a helicopter.

 

Alex

[Dru]

There is no "Coast Range" in BC.

[klenke]

Mountains, Range? What's in a name?

Apparently, not much: Bivouac.com

[Dru]

You ever hear anyone call the mountains on the BC-Alberta the "Rocky Range"? Nope.

[klenke]

I'm not disagreeing with you. I too call them the Coast Mountains. Nonetheless, they are a range. As are the Rocky Mountains as a whole. So, to be correct for your pernickety needs, Alex should have typed Coast range, not Coast Range.

[Dru]

In fact, they are NOT a range. They are a grouping of Ranges. The proper term for a grouping of ranges, using the Canadian conventions, is "Mountains". They are in fact two terms up the heirarchy from a "range".

[Blake]

Klenke vs Dru round two!

[Dru]

But don't you think it's funny how the original guy probably expected a bunch of postings like "Oh my god you've only top roped on th'East Coast WTF are you doing planning on climbing winter routes out here" and no one cares?

[Dru]

If anyone cares, the Stawamus Chief isn't "the second largest granite monolith" either

[klenke]

Okay, Coast ranges.

 

Dru, I wouldn't mind learning the Canadian hiearchical system. Can you provide me a link? This bivouac one doesn't give me what I need (the hiearchy link says nothing toward your end), but it does say this, which, read different ways, supports either of our arguments:

 

"A mountain range is a group of mountains, bordered by lowlands or passes. Thus mountain ranges have an area and boundaries, they are not simply a list of peaks. A mountain range does not necessarily have the same geology. For example, the BC Coast Range contains both volcanoes and metamorphic uplifts."

then

"What is the difference between a Range and a Mountain or Massif? There is really no difference other than the way people want to discuss the landforms."

 

What was Round One, Blake? I can't remember. Oh wait, was Round One where I had the definition of granite wrong or something like that and Dru was being his usual jerky self and I didn't want to lose face?

 

...Okay, no more thread drift. No matter what you say, no matter what you do, no more posting by me in this here thread.

[Dru]

a mountain is a member of a range.

a group of ranges is "ranges"

a group of ranges is "mountains"

all the "mountains" are the "cordillera"

 

For instance Coquihalla Mountain is in the Bedded Range in the Hozameen [we spell it with an A] Ranges of the Cascade Mountains which are part of the Pacific Cordillera.

 

Sky Pilot Mountain is in the Brittania Range of the Pacific Ranges of the Coast Mountains of the Pacific Cordillera.

 

Not all mountains are a member of a named Range but all are in some Ranges of some Mountains.

[tomtom]

Home, home on the Range.

Where the dorks and the antelope play

Where seldom is heard a discouraging word

and the skies are not cloudy all day.

 

[Dru]

It is my job to know these things.

[specialed]

40 yards on 1" tubular.

[EWolfe]

From Mountaineers, you may wish to substitute a headlamp for the flashlight :

 

Map. A map not only tells you where you are and how far you have to go, it can help you find campsites, water, and an emergency exit route in case of an accident.

 

Compass. A compass can help you find your way through unfamiliar terrain—especially in bad weather where you can't see the landmarks.

 

Water and a way to purify it. Without enough water, your body's muscles and organs simply can't perform as well: You'll be susceptible to hypothermia and altitude sickness. not to mention the abject misery of raging thirst.

 

Extra Food. Any number of things could keep you out longer than expected: a lengthy detour, getting lost, an injury, difficult terrain. A few ounces of extra food will help keep up energy and morale.

 

 

 

Rain Gear and extra clothing. Because the weatherman is not always right. Especially above treeline, bring along extra layers. Two rules: Avoid cotton (it keeps moisture close to your skin), and always carry a hat.

 

Firestarter and matches. The warmth of a fire and a hot drink can help prevent an encounter with hypothermia. And fires are a great way to signal for help if you get lost.

 

First aid kit. Prepackaged first aid kits for hikers are available at outfitters. Double your effectiveness with knowledge: Take a basic first aid class with the American Red Cross or a Wilderness First Aid class, offered by many hiking organizations.

 

Army knife or multi-purpose tool. These enable you to cut strips of cloth into bandages, remove splinters, fix broken eyeglasses, and perform a whole host of repairs on malfunctioning gear—not to mention cut cheese and open cans.

 

Flashlight and extra bulbs. For finding your way in the dark and signaling for help.

 

Sun screen and sun glasses. Especially above treeline when there is a skin-scorching combination of sun and snow, you'll need sunglasses to prevent snowblindness, and sunscreen to prevent sunburn.

[ScottP]

It is my job to know these things.

And it's your avocation to be a dick about it.